Around here, Royal Purple seems to be about $3 a quart more expensive than Rotella t full synthetic. Which is the better oil?
For sure. First to go around was the internet B.S. that synthetics cause leaks or increased existing leaks.There is a lot of incorrect information floating around about synthetic lubricants.
Interesting sites, thanks for posting.noria.com or reliabilityweb.com
Synthetic IS recommended for differentials and transmissions nowdays although these pickups didn't come off the factory floor with it. IIRC Ford started using it in the mid or late '90's models.Synthetic isn't specified for anything on these pickups.
I didn't share any, though. Unless you add an additional/upgraded filter which more or less requires a remote mount on these trucks due to short clearance for the filter, there's no point to synthetic. And it really is DRAMATICALLY worse for the environment (not for the planet, just for the part we like!) because it takes so very much longer to break down. I said nothing about causing or exacerbating leaks.There is a lot of incorrect information floating around about synthetic lubricants.
Seafoam is one of those fast flushes that can knock large chunks of carbon loose and cause great problems. Only safe in very low mileage engines.Anything wrong with just using seafoam? Or for that matter, a little gasoline, since seafoam is little more than gas+diesel?
Seafoam *shouldn't* ( hopefully) cause any problems with an engine that young, but it is not going to accomplish the same thing as Auto Rx would. Auto rx does a deep cleaning over time that doesnt' just knock the surface stuff off, it gets all the old built up varnish out of the ring grooves and all teh real hard baked on stuff gets slowly dissolved out, and on top of that it conditions the seals as it cleans them out so you have nice tight seals again, otherwise you will likely be seeping synthetic out around your seals for a while. It can find the smallest gaps and work it's way out. Most all synthetics will over time condition the seals by themselves to where the leaks will stop, but it's an expensive process dumping that stuff on the ground needlessly, when you could have prepared for it ahead of time and then not had the leak problemThanks for the replies.
For the last 16,000 miles (since I've owned the truck) I have run Castrol GTX Diesel 15w30 with two quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer, changed every 3,000 miles, and about two months ago I topped off with about half a pint of seafoam. Has this accomplished what the auto rx would? I would like to go ahead and switch over to synthetic on my next oil change if it won't hurt the engine. By the way, I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "low mileage" but the truck only has 86,000 miles.
Seafoam is one of those fast flushes that can knock large chunks of carbon loose and cause great problems. Only safe in very low mileage engines.
To put this in perspective, I've been using and selling Amsoil for over 25 years. I won't use their fast flush either when converting customers cars, I only use the Auto Rx. In all these years, I've only had carbon chunks cut loose and cause a problem once with a blocked lifter and thankfully it was my vehicle, and that was before Auto Rx hit the market. I won't use anything else since. It takes a lot longer to clean out the engine, but it is worth the wait.