[mrgator]

O.K.. Five out of six ain't bad. The harpoon mod, fuel valve o-rings, manual hubs, green to red anti-freeze, and needle bearings went well. 100% no problem. The brake pads are a different story. The rotors and pads had 80k on them. I was gettin ready for a 10k trip pullin my fiver so i figured i would change the front pads. The job went pretty good. Pads came from Ford, Super Duty Heavy Duty. The rotors were "SLIGHTLY" scored. Nothing looked serious. The pads had about 1/4 or less left. I had the rotors turned at a friends machine shop. When i finished the job, i did the 10mph, 20mph,30mph and so forth brake in method. Every thing looked good until i got on the road. All of the sudden, when i attemptrd to brake at 62 mph, the steering wheel became 100% uncontrolable. Worst then fireing a M60. The front end feels like it has a really bad wobble. What he hell went wrong ??????????? Appreciate all answers.Thanks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Oh yeah, i changed out the slide pins with the new kit from Ford. So now, it's six out of seven.

 

[action4478]

Sounds like you need,..NEW..rotors.....

 

[mrgator]

I would like to know "WHAT" went wrong !!!!! I already ordered new rotors last week.

 

[FionaThe02PSD]

Possibly took too much material off of the rotors and now they can't dissipate (SP?) the heat. Even if within the "Acceptable" limits in my opinion and experience do not turn these rotors, just replace them. Same thing happened to mine and I just put the Cryo Power slots on. End of problem..

 

[FMTRVT]

Rotor surfaces were not turned parallel. These rotors should not be turned on a brake bench lathe, and it's worse if they are turned on a machine lathe where only one surface is turned at a time.

 

[action4478]

Even in the best possible circumstances, turning rotors has never worked well long term for me..If they are not properly machined , they are of course junk,then you end up wasting all the labor too.I always replace ....

 

[mrgator]

I'm a long way from home. Don't even have the MM sockets. Have to buy one from Pep Boys. I ordered from RotorPros(drilled and slotted) and had them shipped to my brother in laws house. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Layson]

Maybe a brake line got pinched or something happened with the brake pistons???

You will probably figure it out when you pull it apart...

good luck,
Steven

 

[444-4D]

[ QUOTE ]
Maybe a brake line got pinched or something happened with the brake pistons???

You will probably figure it out when you pull it apart...

good luck,
Steven

[/ QUOTE ]

It's ok to ignore FMTRVT's post. He is an expert on oil spreadsheets but he's just a wantabe when it comes to brakes.

 

[fire370]

[ QUOTE ]
Even if within the "Acceptable" limits in my opinion and experience do not turn these rotors, just replace them. Same thing happened to mine and I just put the Cryo Power slots on. End of problem..

[/ QUOTE ]

Couldn't have said it better myself. Add a set of ceramic pads and you will have a whole new sports car /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif.............. Have Powerslot Cryo's and Hawk Ceramic's on five PSD's and a Dodge. Very wise investment. IMHO...

 

[FMTRVT]

As long as you catch them early before they develop a hard spot, you can turn them with an on-car lathe acceptably. People often wait too long.

 

[toybreaker]

If you get your rotors turned it might be worth the expenditure to buy a set of point mics and measure the rotor in 15-20 spots all the way around, at various places on the face to check for parallel. If varies more than .001 make them cut it again. You also don't have to have the same thickness of rotors on both sides, as long as they are above the minimum cast into it.