[wfdbackdraft]

Ok guys. I've been down for weeks now, and I'm at a loss on where to check next. I've been searching threads for days, checking theories that I had, but I'm not coming across a solution. I am to the point that I would take it to the dealer now, but with my mods I'm afraid that they would only blame the things that I've upgraded and tell me to put it back to stock. I have got to fix this myself, just not sure where to go next.

Here we go:
My 2002 F350 would every now and then, feel like it was missing, or would bog down. After limping a little, some more skinny pedal and it would clear up. Over time it became more frequent. I also had a decent oil leak. I changed my turbo pedistal O-rings, thinking that would solve it, but nope. So I ordered the HPOP reseal kit from Riffraff. While taking off the output lines, I found a piece of spring in one of the check valves. I started a thread to address that: http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f24/foreign-metal-hpop-while-rebuilding-606593/
During the rebuild, I also replaced the "non-serviceable plug". I had the pump in my vice, straight up and down, so the check ball wouldn't come out. (I never saw it, and thought that it might be stuck to the side) In hindsight, I saw that I was supposed to actually remove the ball and an edge filter. Which I did not. I just replaced the plug and new O ring. I put everything back together, ran it for a few days to get the air out of the system, and I'm still getting the rough running engine, and it bogs down bad sometimes. When I did take it out for a drive to clear out the air from the system, I monitored the HPOP oil pressures. They were looking good under some heavy acceleration. After scanning codes, I had some cylinders that showed out of balance, and I bought new o-rings for those. Didn't change the running. Ran it for a day or so, still bogging down so I parked it again. OHM'd the wiring from the IDM, and came up with some high numbers. Traced it back to an internal connector not seated on the driver's side UVCH. Ran it for less than a day, thinking that I had fixed it, but the miss/bogging came back, and seems to have stayed now. I scanned for codes, and came up with some different injector balance faults than before. Pulled the valve covers, and watched for oil flow from the injectors. Drip, drip, drip, spitting from each. I was expecting more of a flow. This evening, I unplugged each of the injectors, and got an RPM change.
I'm going to copy some of my posts in order below, so you don't have to switch back to the other post. I also did a compression test, and the numbers are in one of the posts below.

I'm needing some guidance/help. I can't afford to throw parts at this truck, and need to know where to look next. Any help/opinion is greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Michael

 

[wfdbackdraft]

3-8-17

I knew that having the HPOP open would leave me with air in the system. I drove it for a few days after getting it back together, and I was still having issues with a rough running engine. One of the reasons that I bought the O ring kit was to stop an oil leak towards the front of the engine. Problem fixed. I was under the impression that maybe with a leaking O ring, that I was getting air into the oil system, causing the engine to seem like it was missing. It's still missing on some cylinders. I didn't pull codes before HPOP rebuild.

I have Auto Enguinity. I'm getting Cylinder Contribution/Balance Faults on cylinders 4, 5, and 8. Cleared the codes, re-tested, and those same cylinders came back. I ran the Change in Rotational Velocity on those cylinders:
4 - 0.4
5 - 5.0
8 - 4.6

I'm planning on running a compression test on all cylinders when I get a chance to. (The truck is parked)
I am also seeing an ugly tint to my coolant reservoir. I will be flushing it soon, and replacing with a new bottle since this one is cracked. It's also another reason why I want to check compression, and leakdown. Worried about a crack somewhere, pressurizing my coolant system, and adding oil. It seems to have a sooty residue inside the plastic tank.
I've already had the pleasure of replacing the fuel injector cups a few years ago too, by the way. I also have replaced the injectors with Full Force single shots about a year ago, so I don't understand why the O-rings would be an issue.

 

[wfdbackdraft]

3-17-17

Ok. I finally received the fitting to complete my compression gauge set up, and just ran the test. Everyone is pretty close except for #6.

1 -350
3 - 320
5 - 340
7 - 330

2 - 340
4 - 350
6 - 280*
8 - 350

I was curious if the numbers would line up with my earlier codes, and the cylinder contribution numbers. Nope!
PCM trouble codes were Injector Cylinder Contribution/Balance Faults on 4, 5, and 8. I ran the Percent of Change in Rotational Velocity on all cylinders. 4 was at .4% 5 was at 5.0% and 8 was at 4.6%.
So I think that my next step will be to pull those injectors and look at O-rings. They were replaced with my set of Full Force Single Shot Stage 1's, around the beginning of 2015.

 

[wfdbackdraft]

3-28-17

It runs rough at idle and under acceleration. I watched my pyrometer actually get cooler than it's ever been while stuck in traffic. Down to about 200. The probe is on the driver's side. When I got home earlier I used my infrared thermometer and checked each exhaust port. 2 was around 130, 4 was a little higher, and 6 and 8 seemed to be ok but being cooled by the upstream cylinders. I checked the other side, and they were all around 300 or so. I then unplugged the driver's UVCH plug, and the engine ran rough, but still ok. Did the same on the passenger side, and it was really stumbling. I got out the Autoenginuity, and on the KOEO test, it came back with a P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory Error. (Haven't searched yet) Ran the Cylinder Contribution Test, and 2, 4, and 5 were out of balance. Checked the PERDEL's next: 2 was 5.4%, 4 was 4.7%, and 5 was 0%. The only other one off was 8 at 3.6%.

And I still have what looks like oil in my degas bottle, but I haven't addressed it yet due to the misfire issue. I'll order the oil cooler O-ring kit. And I'm not losing or gaining any in that tank. I have had an injector cup go years ago, and remember the mess that made in the coolant. I replaced all 8 cups at that time.

So help me out here: I think that my next step is to see if I have any oil spitting out of #2 & #4 injectors. When it's running like crap, I'm not getting any odd colored smoke out of the exhaust. My gut is saying that they aren't firing. Which leads me back to the original reason for this post. I'm wondering if more of the spring from the HPOP(guessing) got into my heads and to the injectors? Maybe that's why they aren't firing? But if I see a good stream of oil out of the spouts like the other cylinders, then that would debunk that theory. Right? The UVCH just OHMed out at 4 or less on that bank. Something is amiss in that area. I glanced at all of the push rods the other week, and they all looked straight. I didn't run it while the covers were off to observe, but I'm going to do that now.

 

[wfdbackdraft]

That's it for the copy and paste. I hope that helps to bring you up to speed.

I never did try another CPS. I'm not even sure which one is in there right now. It's been changed more than a few times over the years with all of the hopla about which one is the better one. Has anyone ever seen a CPS not fail completely, but just not read correctly? I swear this feels like a gas engine that's out of timing, or a cylinder or two that's misfiring. Since I'm at a standstill on diagnosing, I guess that it can't hurt to try a different one while I'm waiting for some feedback.

 

[wfdbackdraft]

I just pulled the CPS. Current part number was Grey 1876735C91. Let's see what I have laying around for a replacement........

First candidate is a Dark Grey 1876736C91.

Stand by....

 

[wfdbackdraft]

Still ran like it was missing. Ran AE, and only #8 showed up on the Contribution test as being a balance fault. Perdel's were around 5% on 2, and 4 again. #8 was around 4%. Consistent with the last scan.
I put new o-rings on 4,5, and 8. 4 got worse, 5 got better, and 8 stayed the same. I haven't touched 2, but it changed after the o-ring change on the other injectors. How does this stuff jump around without even touching it?
Another symptom that I've had for a long time, is when the truck is idling, it will sometimes surge up in RPM's. Then dip below normal and then stabilize. And during a medium braking event, the RPM's would dip, and then return to normal. Maybe even after a hard acceleration and then stop too.
My pyrometer was down around 200 degrees again. What is cooling that bank? My problems are on the driver's side. Could I be looking at a headgasket issue? Please tell me that it isn't a cracked head. That's why I ran the compression test. Those cylinders looked good. Is there a definitive test that I can do before jumping into pulling the head? I'm not scared, just don't want to do it for no reason.

 

[wfdbackdraft]

BUMP!

Can someone help me brainstorm what would make those 2 cylinders cooler, and the PERDEL's around 5% on them also?