[jmadigan]

Hello all.
So found a leak in hoop lines and I replaced with new aftermarket. I had pulled the intake spider and also did a crossover. In order to put locktite on the fittings I blew air out of the oil logs to clean the threads so introduced a lot of air into the system. I know you must drive it hard for about 100 miles to clear the air but it’s been about 150-209 miles of hard driving still running rough and shaky and CEL light is still on. Haven’t scanned it as of yet but what are you alls opinion? Still got air maybe something else happened. What wiring should I make sure is plugged in? Anything else cause air in oil like symptoms?
Thanks

 

[RT]

Did you pull the springs out of the HPOP fittings on the pump side? I don't remember if they will fit into the new fittings if they stayed in the pump or not. Any difference if you pull your ICP sensor? If the wiring was fragile when you did the job, there is always the chance it isn't making proper contact now. I know it's a pain, but you need to get that code read. It may lead to the answer quicker than our guess-fest.

 

[jmadigan]

Did you pull the springs out of the HPOP fittings on the pump side? I don't remember if they will fit into the new fittings if they stayed in the pump or not. Any difference if you pull your ICP sensor? If the wiring was fragile when you did the job, there is always the chance it isn't making proper contact now. I know it's a pain, but you need to get that code read. It may lead to the answer quicker than our guess-fest.

I didn’t pull the springs do you think that’s my problem? The fittings were AN fittings. If I unplug the ICP it runs different not sure if better. I’ll scan it when I get a chance

 

[RT]

I definitely think the springs will interfere with the new fittings. The instructions Corey gives for installation of his CNC Fabrication HPOP lines include removing those check valves. I have also seen two members of this forum that had one of those valves in backward causing symptoms similar to yours.

 

[jmadigan]

I definitely think the springs will interfere with the new fittings. The instructions Corey gives for installation of his CNC Fabrication HPOP lines include removing those check valves. I have also seen two members of this forum that had one of those valves in backward causing symptoms similar to yours.

okay this gives me a spot to start while I wait for my scanner. I’ll pull some springs tomorrow and see what happens and report back. Thanks!

 

[jmadigan]

Took out the springs seemed a little better at first but overall the same still got a check engine light and shaky acceleration under load. It may be because now I introduced more air into the system. Ill give it another 100 miles or so to clear out the new air and see what happens. I ordered an OBD2 adapter so i can get FORscan and maybe get a few codes.

 

[Greg687]

Did you check the wiring harnesses? All that work in there with dried out insulation may have caused a short.

 

[jmadigan]

Harness looks okay. I pulled the whole thing off and replaced the UVCH pigtails because i never got around to it. Checked continuity on all glow plugs and injector path. Ill re-install it later.

 

[jmadigan]

Runs 1000% better. Still have the CEL and now the batteries won’t charge not sure what that’s about.

 

[jmadigan]

Had the big black with orange tracer wire on the wrong side of the starter relay. Whoops... Now its charging still got the check engine light and I can tell its not 100% but there is probably air still. When I pulled the springs out of the HPOP I had drained the HPOP so ill give it about 100 miles and wait till I have my OBD2 adapter to read the codes.

 

[jmadigan]

150 miles later still running rough. OBD2 adapter gets here tomorrow so I’ll check it out

 

[jmadigan]

Okay so ICP 607psi at idle IPR 10.9% at idle IPR 1233 at 2000rpm IPR 19.4% at 2000rpm (normal numbers?) got a couple codes p1275 cylinder #5 high to low side open p1293 injector high side open. Don’t tel me I have a faulty UVCH again… it was cold after I replaced the lines I had this happen last winter where it wouldn’t start took a while cranking and coupling glow plugs it feels the same as last year minus the raw fuel and smoke coming out of exhaust. So I probably melted a harness again. Anybody have an idea why I would be melting a UVCH’s?

 

[Greg687]

Yep, where did you get them? I had some, in Ford packaging, that turned out to be fakes...lasted less than a year. If you look for BG tech bulletin #103 it tells you how to ohm out your harness from the IDM, but the same process applies from the UVCH connectors. Another fake that can fry a harness is a fake glow plug, which will melt in half and then take out the harness. Get your harness from a reputable supplier Diesel O'Rings,, RiffRaff, or the Ford dealer.

 

[jmadigan]

Got the harness and glow plugs from prosource diesel. It said motor craft glow plugs not sure if it’s true I also have a white rodgers glow plug relay on the truck I heard they were the best but again not sure

 

[Greg687]

The relay is the best, and I haven't heard of anyone counterfeiting those. Fake Ford products in "Ford" packaging are out there, and while I have not used that company before, they look legit.

 

[jmadigan]

Hopefully I just squished a wire or something came unplugged I’ll ohm everything out and pull the valve cover

 

[jmadigan]

Found a bent pin on the passenger valve cover harness. Put it back in place now she runs like a top!

 

[klhansen]

Cool! Thanks for closing the loop on this. Glad it was a relatively easy fix.

 

[jmadigan]

Things like this really drive me nuts but I’m just glad I didn’t have to tear the valve covers off again. Thank you all for the help!