[frmrdieseldriver]

This a.m. after starting I drove about 100 feet and I saw the check eng. light come on and immediately it started running really rough. I couldn't accelerate. I immediately thought of the CPS so I went and bought the international b/c the one ford dealear didn't have the $25 dollar one. Right after I bought it, my dad called and said another dealer had it. So, I got that one too and installed it. Nothing changed at first. I let it run rough for about 5 minutes to let it warm up then all of a sudden it ran fine. I drove a mile and it started with the rough idle again. I limped it to murrays to extract the code with their obd11 scanner and it said, "no codes retrieved", and it passed the scan. Started up again, ran fine for 3 miles and rough again. I drove it another 15 miles and it would happen intermittently. A few times I would let off accelerator it would run fine for a minute and repeat. Pulled into another murray's and checked it again with the same results. While running I put my hand down by the exhaust and it felt like there was plenty of pressure. How do I check the EBPV? Any other considerations? The $25 cps is for a 1997, I've read on this site that they're supposed to work for all psd's, but not sure. thanks, adam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

 

[action4478]

Sound's like a valve cover wiring issue. Check for loose & or burned connections...like... This...

Also check the sheetmetal nut on the back of the IPR...Make sure it is there & tight...

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

I just checked the harnesses. All four look okay and prongs look good too. All of them except the right rear had some oil inside. Also the turbo and induction tube had oil inside. Should I run it and unplug the harness connectors to see if that changes anything?

 

[action4478]

From what I read that is a good test to see which side it is.. & , it is usually the wires under the cover....

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

should I be worried about the presence of oil in air tube, turbo...

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

Idle did not change with both drivers plugs removed. Stalled when unplugging passenger's. What's the procedure for replacing the driver's side harness? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif

 

[action4478]

The left side(DS) is the easier of the two.. Heres... Some pics.....

The parts are cheaper a International.
Others will know the part numbers...

Also , while you are in there, you may want to change the glow plugs, that may be why the wiring went bad, I hear Auto zone, I think , for the GP's..Again, others will confirm...

Sometimes it it just a clip that comes apart also,,,(I could be wrong on that one though)....

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

After removing the v/c I discovered the front harness connector to the injectors was burnt. Does the new gasket come with this connector? How do you splice this new one in? Do I replace the other also. The glow plugs were replaced a few years ago. Does the burnt connector mean that these are bad, or does the harness just break down for other reasons?

 

[action4478]

From what I read here it is usually a resistance issue relating to the GP's. They can be tested. If the pins on the gasket are good you may only need the harness,Are you asking about doing both sides, R& L or eveything under one side?...

These #'s are from Blue Mule(Rodney)

Valve Cover Harness Repair Kits (contains 4 hard shells w/seals, w/o terminals)
(Ford) F7TZ-14489-BA (94-96)
(Ford) F7TZ-14489-AA (97)
(International) 1830829C91 removal tool and Shells w/o pins
(International) 1661875C1 Pins
(International) 2501055C1 Pins with 6" wire
Valve Cover Pigtails with plug and wires, OBS
(Performance Specialties) 99288
(Ford) F4TZ-12A342-A

Here is a thread that talks about this,, toward the end....

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

I did read this earlier and still need a little clarification with the numbers and the terminology of each number. What are the Pins? the international dealer has the gasket in stock. I gave him all of the numbers from blue mule and says he can get them. I think I need to know what part number is correlates to the under cover plug that plugs into the gasket/harness. Is it the number with the 6 inch pig tails or does that go to the exterior harness. Sorry for being a PIA. I downloaded BAZ'S part numbers, just need to know what number is what part. I just want to do the one side right now, will check resistance to gps to make sure they're not bad. thanks for your help!

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

I just called the Winzer dist. # and they referred me to a guy named Doug in milford, michigan for my area. The part number for the inside plug/pigtail is 722.97443. These are 18/piece. I bought two and have to go to the international dealer for the valve cover gasket. these are in stock for $30.

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

I am still waiting for the pig tails to come via ups. They don't come with any crimp connectors. What kind should I use to splice in the new one, or should I solder and shrink wrap it?

 

[action4478]

[ QUOTE ]
or should I solder and shrink wrap it?


[/ QUOTE ]

That's the way I would do it....For sure.....JMHO

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

the only thing that I am concerned with is, might it ever melt and ruin something internally?

 

[action4478]

Thats a valid concern, But, I don't thing anything in there will get hot enough to melt solder.. Some one else may know better than I on that one....You may be able to use a crimp connector with shrink tubing also.
Might be worth waiting to see what others think....

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

i've got time, still waiting for UPS to show up with the pigtails and the wife is picking up the gasket. Looks like i'll have to wait til tomorrow to install.

 

[rsrace]

If I'm understanding the thread correctly, your harness is burnt on the inside. That harness is available (comes with pins and connectors) and not too expensive - NAPA carries them. The VC gasket comes with the connectors.

The only pins you should have to replace are on the external wiring harness (which is expensive and goes all over!). I have soldered and heat-shrinked (shrunk?) those with very good success.

By the way, if you get the external harness connector kit without pins, it comes with a removal tool. You can remove the good pins from the under-cover harness (your burnt one) and they are the same exact pins that the external wiring harness uses. I was unable to get new pins and salvaged a couple of these for my replacement job and a couple for the tool box for future needs.

While you're there, be sure to check your Glow Plug resistances - with the VC off, you're 90% there!

Oh, and there's nothing on the outside of our engines that's hot enough to melt solder (even under the VC's)...it takes 400 degrees-F for the lowest melting point electrical solder I know of. Again, I've used solder on engine wiring a lot and never had anything melt.

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

I just received the pigtails from UPS. It turns out they are for the external plug. While my wife was at International picking up the VC gasket, she was able to pick up the internal plug and the guys said these were for the 2 plug gasket. They can't look up my truck, "96 psd", and get part numbers. you need to supply them with the #s. I am hoping that these are the right ones. I'll know a later when I see them. I'll post again after 8 p.m. to let y'all know what I've got. Oh yeah! If I did it right, I have between .993 and 1.02 ohm resewhen I touch the GP to the neg. batt cable. Does that sound right. Also the corresponding gp points all of the external plugs are about that too. I believe that means everything else is good. As soon as I find my deep well 10mm I'll remove some of the gps to look

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

It turns out that the UVCH comes with new plugs for the injectors and the glow plugs, so no splicing in. these were only $30 a piece from international. I should have 'er up and running this am. Finally! I am still not sure what caused the harness to burn. If the GP's are at the correct resistance, what would cause the harness to ground out like that?

 

[frmrdieseldriver]

I soldered in the external harness plug to front driver's side and noticed the uninsulated copper wire tied around this harness. What's the purpose of this. It fooled me, at first I thought it was a burnt wire that supplied power to GPs. It starts up and runs fine now, what a relief!