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Running rough also

2K views 22 replies 4 participants last post by  frmrdieseldriver 
#1 ·
This a.m. after starting I drove about 100 feet and I saw the check eng. light come on and immediately it started running really rough. I couldn't accelerate. I immediately thought of the CPS so I went and bought the international b/c the one ford dealear didn't have the $25 dollar one. Right after I bought it, my dad called and said another dealer had it. So, I got that one too and installed it. Nothing changed at first. I let it run rough for about 5 minutes to let it warm up then all of a sudden it ran fine. I drove a mile and it started with the rough idle again. I limped it to murrays to extract the code with their obd11 scanner and it said, "no codes retrieved", and it passed the scan. Started up again, ran fine for 3 miles and rough again. I drove it another 15 miles and it would happen intermittently. A few times I would let off accelerator it would run fine for a minute and repeat. Pulled into another murray's and checked it again with the same results. While running I put my hand down by the exhaust and it felt like there was plenty of pressure. How do I check the EBPV? Any other considerations? The $25 cps is for a 1997, I've read on this site that they're supposed to work for all psd's, but not sure. thanks, adam /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
I just checked the harnesses. All four look okay and prongs look good too. All of them except the right rear had some oil inside. Also the turbo and induction tube had oil inside. Should I run it and unplug the harness connectors to see if that changes anything?
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
should I be worried about the presence of oil in air tube, turbo...
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Idle did not change with both drivers plugs removed. Stalled when unplugging passenger's. What's the procedure for replacing the driver's side harness? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
After removing the v/c I discovered the front harness connector to the injectors was burnt. Does the new gasket come with this connector? How do you splice this new one in? Do I replace the other also. The glow plugs were replaced a few years ago. Does the burnt connector mean that these are bad, or does the harness just break down for other reasons?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I did read this earlier and still need a little clarification with the numbers and the terminology of each number. What are the Pins? the international dealer has the gasket in stock. I gave him all of the numbers from blue mule and says he can get them. I think I need to know what part number is correlates to the under cover plug that plugs into the gasket/harness. Is it the number with the 6 inch pig tails or does that go to the exterior harness. Sorry for being a PIA. I downloaded BAZ'S part numbers, just need to know what number is what part. I just want to do the one side right now, will check resistance to gps to make sure they're not bad. thanks for your help!
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I just called the Winzer dist. # and they referred me to a guy named Doug in milford, michigan for my area. The part number for the inside plug/pigtail is 722.97443. These are 18/piece. I bought two and have to go to the international dealer for the valve cover gasket. these are in stock for $30.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I am still waiting for the pig tails to come via ups. They don't come with any crimp connectors. What kind should I use to splice in the new one, or should I solder and shrink wrap it?
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
the only thing that I am concerned with is, might it ever melt and ruin something internally?
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
i've got time, still waiting for UPS to show up with the pigtails and the wife is picking up the gasket. Looks like i'll have to wait til tomorrow to install.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I just received the pigtails from UPS. It turns out they are for the external plug. While my wife was at International picking up the VC gasket, she was able to pick up the internal plug and the guys said these were for the 2 plug gasket. They can't look up my truck, "96 psd", and get part numbers. you need to supply them with the #s. I am hoping that these are the right ones. I'll know a later when I see them. I'll post again after 8 p.m. to let y'all know what I've got. Oh yeah! If I did it right, I have between .993 and 1.02 ohm resewhen I touch the GP to the neg. batt cable. Does that sound right. Also the corresponding gp points all of the external plugs are about that too. I believe that means everything else is good. As soon as I find my deep well 10mm I'll remove some of the gps to look
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
It turns out that the UVCH comes with new plugs for the injectors and the glow plugs, so no splicing in. these were only $30 a piece from international. I should have 'er up and running this am. Finally! I am still not sure what caused the harness to burn. If the GP's are at the correct resistance, what would cause the harness to ground out like that?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I soldered in the external harness plug to front driver's side and noticed the uninsulated copper wire tied around this harness. What's the purpose of this. It fooled me, at first I thought it was a burnt wire that supplied power to GPs. It starts up and runs fine now, what a relief!
 
Discussion starter · #21 ·
I decided to change the oil after everything was done and the oil had electrical burning smell. I filled 'er up and ran 'er again, then removed the oil cap and smoke came out of the valve cover.
Just before I removed the oil cap, I checked resistance through the front passenger VCH and the GP prongs read .001. What does this mean? I know enough about electrical to just get by or really hurt myself...
I pulled out 3 gp's on the driver's side when replacing the harnesses and VCG and they looked fine. The resistance to the gp's were around 1.0 ohms. Isn't this where they're supposed to be.
Also checked to see how long the GPR cycled after running 2 miles down the road and then idling for a few minutes. It stayed on for about a minute. Shouldn't it have shut of before then. D /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gifoes this sound like the EOT sensor is faulty. it was replaced years ago
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
found another burnt harness on passenger front. I think I understand now what happened. My brother drove this truck for 2 years without ever replacing the GPR. He just plugged it in to start it when it got cold. It turns out most of the GPs were bad. Ones on passenger side look like were full of carbon deposit from never getting cycled. I should have listened to Rick with first post!! Probably wouldn't have had to buy the other VC & UVCH! I can do that repair with my eyes closed now. LOL. Just need to figure out the pull to the right now and I'm all set.
 
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