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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hi, so I have a '94 Ford and the truck will crank up and run, it has to cycle over several times before it starts up, but after running for a minute or so it sets in skipping and acting like its starving for fuel. It get worse and worse until the truck is barely idling and boiling out smoke. So far I have bought and replaced the filter, checked for leaks, basic stuff. I know a little but I don't know much about this truck so any ideas on what this might be would be very appreciated. Thanks
Edit: 1994 Ford F-250 7.3 IDI turbo
 

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Welcome to the Diesel Stop

First thing to determine is which engine you have, since there were 3 choices. 8th character of the VIN will tell you. Once we have that figured out, it will be much easier to try to diagnose or at least give you a direction. Post up which engine and we'll take it from there:
"M" is an IDI without a turbo
"K" is an IDI with a turbo
"F" is a power stroke
 

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It's okay, not many people know there was 3 different engines. Now that we know your working with a turbo'd IDI we can start with the basics.

If it's making smoke the warmer it gets, we need to figure out if it's fuel or oil. What does it smell like and what color? How old is the fuel?

How is the air filter? You can take the intake to the turbo off and make sure the turbo is actually spinning.

After that, any idea how old the injectors are?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, so the air filter is good, it's relatively new, doesn't have much black stuff on it. The fuel injectors, I have no idea how old they are or how to tell if they are bad or not. As for the smoke, it starts out puffing a bit of bluish smoke then as it gets worse from the truck skipping and running bad the smoke gets whiter while keeping that blue tint.
 

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Does it smell like sulpher, or un-burned fuel? Does it smooth out as it comes off idle? does the smoke go away as it comes off idle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey thanks for replying. It doesn't smell like sulfur, smells like diesel fuel. Now I have owned this truck a few years and it has always puffed just a bit of smoke all the time, it would billow out when it first fired up and when it leveled out and was idiling it was just a little bit.
Now when I crank it, it billows out and the truck wont level out and idle correctly, it sounds like it's skipping. I rev it up, thinking maybe it just needs to clean out and it sounds terrible and boils the damn smoke. I let the truck sit and idle and it starts, chopping, I guess is the best way to put it, until it dies, meanwhile smoking worse and worse until it dies.
 

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I'm inclined to think you have at least one injector that isn't closing.
Unless you have the time and $$ to build a test stand, I would pull them and have them pop tested.

If you do that make sure you note which line goes to which injector and where it's hooked to the IP.
 

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u are not alone. I am having the same issues this week. I'll start a new thread.
 

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If not a stuck injector, like Chuck said, then look at the IP is sounds like the advance piston might be stuck. I had one do that to me while traveling. 65 or 70 mph, it ran O. Slow down and it was like fogging for mosquitoes and rough as a cob. A rebuilt IP solved the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, this isn't quite as bad as I thought, thank God. Thanks for the help, im going to call around tomorrow and find out who here in town can test fuel injectors. I'm going to do that first then if that doesn't fix the problem I will find out more about this IP thing, not sure what that is lol.
Thanks again
 

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IP-Injector Pump.

It's the big thing on the top at the front with 8 steel lines connecting it to the injectors.

If your going to remove the injectors for testing make sure you note where the line clamps are located. Then start removing lines at the top, noting which injector it went to. I use painters tape to make a tag and write with a "sharpie".

When you remove the injectors make sure the copper washer comes out. If it doesn't use a pick or like me a wire coat hanger with the tip bent.

DO NOT remove the pump yet.
 

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If the lines will flex enough to get a socket on the injector, why remove them. I've done this many times, and never had a problem. I also leave the lines and clamps alone when changing the pump, until I have it on the bench. It's kind of a trick to get the whole assembly in and out, but I think it's much easier than trying to get at the lines on the bottom of the pump. With the clamps still in place, then there isn't any worry about where they go when you put them on the next pump, as they will only fit one way.
 
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