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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Started into my 120,000 mile oil,air and fuel filter change this morning. Wanted to take a look at the front brake pads also, because I was noticing squeal coming from the front. Removed the calipers, and found each piston in both calipers cracked and disintegrating. As Ford does not sell a rebuild kit, I forked out the $160 each for 2 new calipers. Has anyone experienced this? See photos.

I'm fairly certain this is due to excessive heat. But I don't have any other indications that things are getting excessively hot. Rotors are fine, pads still have plenty of meat.

I dont ride the brakes, and I do not tow very often. I usually have about 1000 to 1500 lbs in the bed. But nothing overwhelming for the truck. I do drive the hell out of it. . but just don't see how the calipers are being abused to a point of wrecking the caliper pistons.

I have always done my brake service on all my vehicles, and have never seen the caliper pistons do this.

Any thoughts??
 

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Holy cow. Lucky you were proactive enough to look for an issue. Can you imagine how many people wouldn't have caught that. I wonder how many other 8500 pound sleds are out there one crack away from disaster. Good catch.
 

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Do you have a picture of the back of the brake pads?

Is this the first time anyone has been into the front brakes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The back brakes got a visual inspection as I was rotating the tires. Again. Plenty of of pad left. Rotors are fine.

After replacing the calipers up front, I cannot get the lines bled out to a good firm pedal. So I will be bleeding all 4 corners tomorrow. Might pull the rear calipers and have a look.


I have been thru the brakes June of 2014. Replaced the factory pads and rotors with new pads and rotors all around.
 

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But ... pictures of the backs of the front brake pads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry. I misread read your post. I can get a pic for you.
 

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I have seen this when the calipers were not retracted enough and the pads have brads holding the anti-noise shims onto the pad backer plate.
Were the calipers hard to get free from the rotors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
FMTRVT - here are the photos you requested. First pic is driver side. Top pad is inside, bottom pad is outside. 2nd pic is passenger side. Top, inside, bottom outside.

Jimmy, no harder to remove than any other brake job I have done.
 

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When I did my 6.0 I needed a 3/4" breaker bar to get the caliper bolts off. That was borrowed from a neighbor who's moved. So, before I tear mine apart should I go buy more tools:smile2: I''ve got got big, for 1/2", stuff here. Gotta love the search function!
 

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Common to have the calipers seize up. Mine did on both my 2008 and 2011. Drivers front at 22k rears at 36k. I guess it depends on towing and driving habits. Ford has changed the brakes since. Don't know which year they did but I hope I don't get the caliper freezes like back then on this 2016.
 

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Well, I did the rears yesterday and remembered why my 6.0 was such a pain. If the truck is only on jack stands there is not enough room to get leverage on the breaker bar, caliber bolts have blue loc tite on them. So being older I thought for a bit. The trick is to use your floor jack under the end of the breaker bar. The other problem if you use MotorCraft pads are the clips. After fighting with those and watching video's I ended up just trimming the edge on one side. The caliber you can cradle on a jack stand if you don't want to bleed the system. The rotor removal is a different story, go watch a video.
 

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Typical junk Ford brakes. I had both front calipers seize under warranty along with new rotors. 1 year later new caliper on passenger side along with new Rotors and pads out of warranty. One and a half years after that both front rotors and pads but this time I went with ATA rotors and Hawk pads. Just last week had to replace the Air conditioning compressor and the passenger side caliper again but the rotors and pads are ok which was good. The mechanic said if I don’t pull the calipers at least every six months and replace the slide pins and expansion caps with new and lube everything, that it will happen again. He says that water gets in there and seizes everything up tight and that it is a poor design. Ford, GM and Dodge all have the same design so switching brands won’t make a difference. Preventative maintenance is the key. I have a 2011 F-350 Crew cab Dually and I will not have it by next summer. Tired of all the problems. Looking at the new Nissan Titan XD with V8 Cummins Diesel engine. Just what I need.
 
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Wow, thats alot of brakes, I'm not sure it is typical though, here's my experience

My 1999-sold at 303,000 km, did the rear pads at 200,000 km that's it.

My 2003 sold at under 200,000 km, never touched the brakes

My 2004 sold at under 200,000 km never touched the brakes

My 2007 still in service 400,000 -replaced two calipers due to similar issue above, ran auto zone rotors on the rear for a couple years then turned & reinstalled the originals, fronts are original. Just put park brake shoes on it.

So I'm not sure if I'm really "lucky" or your really "unlucky" with brakes.
 

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Phil- I think a lot of it is driving style. I'm at 225,000 miles. I've got the replacement pads in my garage. I check my brakes every tire rotation but the original pads still look ok. Maybe someday I'll get to do my first brake job on this truck...
 
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That's insane, water freezing? Never have I seen that happen.

I drive roller coasters so I've been thru a bunch of front and on second back.

I bet flat landers get frozen slide pins before they ever need new pads.
 

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Has your axle been submerged? Do you live where it freezes? It looks like both broke at the same place on both. It looks like it would be the low side when mounted and would be the place water would sit, the low side.
You may want to drain your differentials. Are you the original owner?
 

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Always have to worry about rock walls by roads. Water fills those cracks and crevices, sits there till a hard freeze and that's it. It will push a huge piece of rock the size of a dump truck off the other half of it. Then it slides or drops to the road. Like it was split in half, amazing. You say, well why didn't it just push up the path of least resistance, back up the crack the water entered from? No, we want to split a mountain face.
 

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I had the exact same thing happen to my truck 3yrs ago but on the rear and couldn't find what happen....

And pretty sure they broke around the same side of the piston


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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I'm liking ice, more and more in this one, fellas.


I bet if you blow the Pistons out extremely carefully with compressed air onto a board or similar to trap the piston and absorb the impact, you will probably find signs of water having been down in the low spot.


Or or somebody got to MR. Fung in China, upstairs in the foundary's metallurgy lab, if they have one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
This was the 2nd time changing the front pads. Calipers and slide were not seized. And were very easy to remove. I only noticed the cracked pistons when I rolled the caliper over. . to secure it, to keep from hanging by the flexible brake line.

I don't think this was caused by frozen water. Axles never been submerged, although it does get plenty cold where I am.

Looking at the discoloration of the pads, I think excessive heat is to blame. Possibly the 2nd set of pads weren't the quality that the box indicated. Cheapy pads definitely can cause heat issues.

Look closer at the pistons, they are a ceramic material, not steel. Maybe bad QC on the ceramic castings?

Either way. I'm over it. New calipers and Ford HD pads. And it's been fine ever since. Just flipped 124,000 today.
 
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