[IHjonny]

Hey all.. Went to remove my hub today to change out my bad wheel bearings on drivers rear and the nut wont budge. Using the correct(lisle 28000) lock nut socket and half inch breaker bar. I even slid a cheater bar on and couldn't budge it.. Im about 200 lbs and with that leverage I was way over the torque rating for it. I new I would eventually snap my extension and sure enough I did so just wondering if anyone has any ideas??

 

[cdnsarguy]

Are you aware the threads are right and left hand threads on different sides.......

Right hand thread for right side hub nut....
Left hand thread for left side hub nut..

 

[IHjonny]

I am now...:lol: I did try because I was curious if it might be that way but not very hard. Thanks for wisdom

 

[IHjonny]

ok.. snapping an extension even going the wrong way without budging the nut is not good? using left hand thread rotation to loosen the nut today snapped another extension without budging it either.. i dont know if i should have but i used a little pb blaster as well but didnt do any good.. im stumped

 

[DragOne]

hmm, I knew about the steering axles on my 90 international being L-threads, but the drive axles as well? Even on a (your) newer 94 Ford?

 

[LMJD]

hmm, I knew about the steering axles on my 90 international being L-threads, but the drive axles as well? Even on a (your) newer 94 Ford?

Me too, left hand lug nuts yes, but I don't recall left hand threads on ANY size full floating rear axle housings.
IHjonny, most all full floating axles have a locking tap of some type which locks the outer wheel brg nut so it can't loosen. Sure that's not your problem?

 

[Bill1013]

Surely there is enough threads sticking out to see if they are left or right hand. Like said, locking tabs, bend them back. Use 3/4" breaker bar, takes a twelve ton air over hydraulic jack to break them, just stand back. Don't ask how I know.

 

[Squid63]

If you've got the proper tool for the 10.25 hubs it will release the lock.
The nuts are ratcheting type, and the left side is a left hand thread. Inserting the tool pushes the ratchet apart and allows you to turn it.
Torque spec is only about 65 ft-lbs minus a few clicks to set preload.

 

[IHjonny]

ok so closer look the nuts are marked LH or RH for the different sides of the truck so thanks for clearing that up all.. Next my tool is a lisle 28000 so as far as i know its the correct socket. Now its still not undoing the ratchet system in the nut because the locking ring inside is broken in a few places. I can push that ring back and move it around with a screwdriver (and removed as many broken pieces as i could) but still no luck in budging the nut.. there are 3 little "keys" inside and one did come out with one of the pieces of the locking ring. If the tab you are referring to is on the backside of the lock nut as a whole then it sets in the keyway and i dont have a way to get far enough back in there to bend it.. again thanks for all help i am slowly learning :crazy:

 

[IHjonny]

alright here we go.. just needed a bigger hammer ha. got the nut off and well not good.. bearings are seized in there and I'm afraid if i beat the hub off I will ruin the spindle threads and spindle. Will definitely need a new hub but maybe easier way(cheaper), would be to just find a new rear end at a salvage yard and swap em out..??

 

[drinkypoo]

It will definitely be easier. Pinion, U-Bolts, bleed brakes... but then again, you could end up with a bad one.

 

[IHjonny]

found a rear end off an 85 F350.. Ideas on how easily it will swap in?? I did make sure that is has 4.10 gears like mine so I'm ok there. Other than that it just needs one shock bracket welded up.. thanks for all the help

 

[drinkypoo]

If it needs one shock bracket, then at worst you can knock the other one off and make it fit