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Hello, I bought a 2008 E450 retired ambulance with 188k miles on its 6.0

1st sign of issue was wife went to move van 45°F and came to me saying it wont go. Says she gave it 5 min before trying and in all gears no responce from pedal. I said let it warm up and by the ti.e she went back out she was able to move it and did.

Next sign was me driving in about same temps and leaving a stop light sudden dead peddle. Again next day same thing leaving g light sudden dead pedal but came back right away 1st time had to neutral restart second time. But noticed both ti.es I was turning.

Next time not turning but climbing up to 30mph when I lost it and couldnt get it back. A series of pumping gas and restarts got me a rev here and there to home a few blocks away. All 3 times it happend to me it was about 180°F due to an un thermostat controlled electric fan in replaced the electric clutch with. This made me notice the fan was keeping me a bit to cold.

So now I'm still with a very weird situation forcing it to go to work a few days having best luck with fan off letting it get to 220° ECT but still leaving me idling across intersections and such. I drive about 100 miles a day doing service work so now its parked with me in for last few days trying to get it running.

I got my biggest clue the other day when I was having wife put in drive hold peddle and give slight pedal so I could mess with wiring to sensors and it would come and go rev here rev there but I feared for my life so I had her use reverse and I found out it works fine in reverse. By works fine I mean the crazy numbers all my 5 volt sensors were giving me this whole time would level off within a few seconds and pedal comes back and never faults when in reverse. Otherwise both in park neutral and drive my MAP, Barometric and Ex backpressure sensors are all over the place and not till the get right usually with time and warm temps would I get random bursts of pedal that instantly sent sensor numbers back to crazy with each rev. But in reverse all is good.

This took my attention off the motor and sensors and put it onto tranny that I found was about 4 quarts low. I had chance baro, Map and ex backpressure sensors over previous days to no help. Putting the 4 quarts in helped for a little bit but same issue but not as bad but still to bad to trust in busy minneapolis traffic. This did help me find a hole in hose to Map sensor which made truck finally have power off the line and finally hear the turbo which was an issue since I bought it. I'm guessing this is what took it out of service. My trans temp on my sct tuner that I only use for gauges seems to be working fine and I got stat on electric fans now. And unlike before at idle I can clear codes and wrench shuts off but as soon as drive is asked for all sensors go nuts and about 20 different codes pop up and wrench appears. But in reverse I could go and go.

Only other clues I got are I idle allot I mean allot like 5 hours a day running ac and or heat as I use the back as an office of workshop. Someone out there and I'm guessing here can pi point my issue. Sorry that was so long but I'm hoping I've given info needed to point me in right direction. I need to get back to work as I've lost about 5k in potential profits so far and I've really only got about 6 weeks to jar up enough cash to carry all 9 of us till spring. Thanks to all that have read this far and I'll not let this phone down till I figure it out. I've watched every video and read every thread and know I have a shorting sensor that kls 5 volt power from computer causing sensors to all go crazy but which one I dont know. Thanks again.

Next time no pedal
 

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OK.

You have added 4-qts ATF and now its at the proper level.

You had a fan that ran all the time not connected to a thermostat but now it is connected. Is this a fan for the cab heat?

You have several Codes that keep returning. You need to list them here.

You idle the old ambulance many hours a day. You should look at high idle options that keep your engine running around 1100-1300 RPM when in Park. I use a Ford device called an AIC. Auxiliary Idle Control. They are no longer made but are available on Ebay by private sellers used for $100-$150. There are other options.
 

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SCT is not a very good code reader. That said, you got codes, why not post the code numbers. We have to have concrete information to be able to help over the internet!

For THOROUGH code reading, you should get the ForScan Lite app for your smartphone. $5 download. Also you will need an ELM327 OBDII adapter. WiFi for iOS and BlueToooth for Android. The BAFX brand of adapter works the best IMO.

With ForScan Lite, you also can pull engine data.

Just as an FYI, the fan clutch wiring are close to the transmission range sensor wiring, so any short in the fan clutch wiring can play havoc w/ engine and transmission operation. It is also a v-reference (5 V) circuit. With the modifications you described (or at least as best as I could understand it), it is likely your issue is in that wiring.
 

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The right direction is to sell the truck and get another one. You picked about the most problem child 6.0 you could. You now have a higher milage/time engine that has known problems. Sell it and get something else. Don't use the engine to keep it warm, get a small generator and a space heater. I know this is not advice you want to hear but it is the best I can give because you are throwing money down a money pit.
DENNY
 

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Discussion Starter #5
P2287
2286
2285
2139
2138
2132
2127
2122
2104
1000
0480
0472
0405
0107
Sensors still stay within parameters in reverse and no issues, park and neutral also. But put in the drive and instantly all goes nuts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually park and neutral can only hold it together after in reverse first or after long periods of time. And one other issue is pedal position rarely ever shows a percentage. In fact It works only when I restart after getting all warmed and reset. But is first to go.
 

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Thanks Bismic for clarifying his fan is the engine fan that is now on thermostat.
 

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Codes are for:
MAP sensor
EBP sensor
EGR valve
ICP sensor
Fan Clutch

Look for wiring issues around all of these sensors/areas.
You can run with all of these unplugged as a test. I would try that.

Other codes:
throttle control system forced idle
circuit low on all three pedal sensors (APP sensors)

You can't run with the accelerator pedal sensors unplugged.
Check the wiring for damage/chafing - look at it all the way through the fire wall. IMO your issues is with other wiring, but you might as well check this APP sensor wiring also.

You need to describe in more detail what you did w/ the fan. It wasn't clear. It is highly likely that that is the source of all your problems.

I hate to think that it is the PCM, but that is also a possibility - a remote one IMO.
 

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There are three or four connectors on wheel well below brakes. I believe your issure is corrosion/ not a good connection. Thats where they are on trucks not necessarily E chassis. Also I remeber there being connector issues with epoxy or something leaking into connector on transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First of all thanks. I'm still sitting dead and at this point being out of work this long I cant just drop it at shop for repair.
As far as fan goes I unplugged the plug from the electric clutch, and wired in an electric fan from crown vic . The wires I used to power it and such are separate from the old siren in front bumper so the plug is just sitting there. Hope that helps.
 

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An unplugged (OEM) fan clutch connector can get mangled by the fan blades and can cause wiring shorts. It is the first place I would look.

There is other advice in the posts above. Post up what you find when you get around to doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great new with a little bad at the same time. When I was attempting to pull the plug on the EGR my exhausted mind let my tired hand pull out the wires out of the injector that's on passenger side front most location. I believe this is #1 location. Well the wires stayed in the rubber round keeper and came out all at once. I guessed on the position of the 4 when plugging back in but guessed wrong. Then I thought I had it figured out and wrong again. It takes about 1.5 hours to remove the boost pipes and second alternator to get another guess at the exact location try so if anyone has the layout of the 4 Pins as they should be installed in that injector that would be awesome. I've got a few hours into looking myself but no luck so far.

Oh and IT WAS THE EGR.. once unplugged all issues went away. I unplugged the suggested sensors one by one leaving them unplugged until last the EGR and that was it. All my no pedal issues were with the egr. Maybe shorting out not sure. I'm happy that I found the hole in the hose to the IPS sensor because now I've got low end turbo wich I never had. Now I know why all the fuss of the 6.0 is worth it. With this being a heavy ass ambulance I'm surprised the power and take off I get. I'm now a 6.0 fan but still a 7.3 lover. I'm making my way to the injector now to try another location of the pins hoping to get that injector back in line. Im doing my moves based off the dark blue wire in the round rubber insert so if u got a diagram or wire color locations in the injector on passenger side front most injector I'd love to see it.

Thanks to any and all who gave advise to this complicated issue. Me and my family of 9 appreciate your time.
 

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Very glad you got it figured out!
 

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The right direction is to sell the truck and get another one. You picked about the most problem child 6.0 you could. You now have a higher milage/time engine that has known problems. Sell it and get something else. Don't use the engine to keep it warm, get a small generator and a space heater. I know this is not advice you want to hear but it is the best I can give because you are throwing money down a money pit.
DENNY
Agree to Disagree. Also 2008 was one of the best production years of the 6.0. It can be a great motor with a few mods and obvious updates. My 6.0 after replacing the ICP and obvious known issues went for 110000 miles when I sold it. Plus you can work on it too! I understand it was not one of the best diesel motors Navistar produced but can be a good motor with some tweaks and mods. Plus it was a fleet vehicle / ambulance so it was probably maintained well. Also that motor was probably worked in lots of different conditions too.
 
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