The Diesel Stop banner

Service Ramps for HD Trucks

5K views 34 replies 6 participants last post by  gab16 
#1 · (Edited)
Anybody have recommendations for good truck service ramps for my F350? I'm not thinking Rhinos are really up to the task, and I'm not ready to spend $600 for aluminum semi truck ramps. Short of laminating 2x12's, what else to do?

I see Race Ramp HD's tested with a semi at 10,000# on their 5,000# set with no issue, but my 2013 F350 must be pushing 5k on the front axle?
 
#2 ·
I'm not up on the weights of the new trucks but what I would do is to go to a scale and weigh just the front end, then you will have something to actually go by.

On my 96 I am using some ramps that my dad bought over 30 years ago so I have no idea of what their rating is but they handle my truck just fine and show no evidence of being stressed.
 
#3 ·
Lucky you. I rolled up on my 30 year old ramps and crushed them flat...
 
#4 ·
I've wondered every time that I use them but when I check them out they look just fine. I have no idea of where he picked them up at but he used them to work on his Dodge station wagon. If I were a betting man I would say that he got them at Sears, he bought everything at Sears when it was a decent hardware store.
 
#5 ·
A little off-topic but do any of you guys use one of those platforms that hooks over your front wheel and allows you to stand taller over the engine compartment?

Any recommendations?

Thanks
 
#6 ·
Nick has this one -

He gave me the link the last injector cup job I did. I sure wish I'd had it - I am SO sick of stepstools sliding out from under me when I have to reach for something.

I can't find the picture, but Nick also had this really cool platform he built. Looks like a deck about 2 feet off the ground. Its shaped such that you drive your truck into it and then you can walk around on the deck and get to all sides of the hood. Another great idea for anyone whose POA won't kick them out for building it...
 
#7 ·
I keep debating on buying a topside creeper from Northern Tools. If you watch the sales that they have it will be as low as $189. A member on here or another forum made one out of 2x4's and foam rubber. If you have the equipment to do it you also could use some square metal tubing and be into it less than $100 I believe.
 
This post has been deleted
#11 ·
:lol::lol: I'm with you on that one, Smokewagon. I was hoping for some input too. I haven't done a search yet, but I wouldn't mind picking up a set for my F-250. I've got a set for my later model 1/2 ton but I didn't research if the same company makes stronger ones for a diesel pickup. Mine appear to be made out of the poly whatever, similar to the plastic (wrong name, I know) that they're making some of the auto pistol frames out of nowadays.
 
#13 ·
Holy you know what. Did you look through the reviews on that Amazon set? The guy that posted pictures of what his Tundra did to the ramps. Ain't no way I'm sliding under a truck that weighs what mine does sitting on plastic ramps. I like that first set, but I'm not paying that for a set of ramps. I'll stick to my 15 ton jack stands....
 
#14 ·
I like the post in his review of them. It looks like he drove over the top of them and then partially off of them.

One thing that anyone should know that anything can and will fail if you don't use it properly or abuse it in some way. If all else fails use a jack and jack stands but then people give out bad reviews on jack stands also.

By the way I just threw up two sets on a quick search that I did since the OP wasn't getting any suggestions on service ramps.
 
#15 ·
I know and it was appreciated. I lost an uncle to a failed jack / stand. I've got a healthy fear of sliding under something that heavy. I looked at the 16k rated ramps by the same manufacturer and the reviews there showed pictures of crushed stands too. I'm not convinced anything plastic is going to hold up.
 
#18 ·
Hmm. Where I am, the water table is so shallow I'd be wading around in the pit. Sure would be nice to have that and a 4 post lift (and a garage tall enough to accommodate it.) Someday....
 
#21 · (Edited)
Did you guys read all the comments below the Tundra guys bad review? Sounds like somehow the guy screwed up. We've got "his and her's" Tundras, she's got 80,000 on hers and I've got 32,000 on mine so you can figure how many 5,000 mile oil changes I've done using my ramps. I looked this morning and on the side is stamped 8000GVW, 4000 per axle, 2000 per wheel. And he broke his 12,000lbs. models? Mine ARE a different brand (Blitz, they make the oil drain pans, etc.) but still IMO his breakage claim doesn't make sense.
On Edit:
After looking all over Google, it appears Blitz and Rhino ramps are the same company. I just ordered the 16,000lbs. version from Amazon for my F'250 diesel. Should be more than strong enough. Thanks again, Bugman for getting me energized. :)
 
#22 ·
The top three reviews on the 16,000 pound version show a set of ramps crushed by a Dodge Caravan, rear axle of a "9470 pound truck", and a 5000 pound truck.

My biggest concern is when do these collapse. If they do it right when you drive on, then fine - you back off and throw them away. If they catastrophically collapse when you're underneath - then what.

I wonder if temperature has anything to do with the strength. Being plastic, they may be less able to hold up on my 120° driveway than your 40° driveway. I hope they stand up for you. We need your continued input on the forum.
 
#23 ·
If you were really worried about them collapsing while the vehicle is up on the ramps you could also place some jack stands along side the ramps. The only problem there would be that unless you had some type of screw adjustment on the jack stands there would be a gap between the top of the stand and the frame of the vehicle.

I also take reviews of a product with a grain of salt. Even the good ones usually don't really tell you if they are really good or bad. I have even written and submitted poison reviews on a product that has gotten raves by others, so you just never know until you do some research on the product yourself and see if it will suit your needs.
 
#24 ·
I agree - and when one or two bad reviews show up you half expect there are some idiots out there who know how to use a keyboard and just like to flame things - or truly can't figure out how to use the product properly. But these reviews - lots of them - have pictures of catastrophic failures. I mean - its one thing if your potato peeler falls apart. To have a ramp separating you from being crushed to death fails - that's a different ball game.

Like I said - I'm hypersensitive to this. I've seen it happen. Been to the funeral. Don't want to be there again.
 
#25 ·
Anytime you are working under a vehicle you need to take precautions even if the wheels are still on it. If it did come down it may not crush you completely but it would do a lot of damage to you if you were in the wrong spot or position.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Just read those bad reviews, who knows? Then there's this on top rated stands, the Rhinos are rated high:
The Top 5 Best Car Ramps for Lowered Cars to SUV's | All Garage Floors
I'll definitely be watching them as I drive on plus I've got two sets of jack stands I'll use also. And like some of you guys, I've also known a few who have been crushed by using improper/inferior vehicle lifting methods.
Now you guys have got me paranoid about my Tundra ones I've been using and trusting since 2007.:lol::lol:.

If all else fails, I'll go back to my two floor jacks and stands.
 
#27 ·
Thanks guys. Grease pit is out. Don't trust the Rhinos. Race Ramp HD's are 2,500 pounds per wheel, but $480. I can buy aluminum HD's for that.
I was curious what others are doing. I pulled an F150 on some stamped steel ones years ago. Rated at 6k, they both flattened.
May just laminate some 2x12's.
 
#28 ·
I'll give you guys a full report, the 16,000 lb. version will be here Fri. if I remember right since I've got Amazon Prime. If UPS comes late in the day, I'll drive on 'em Sat.
 
#29 ·
Just drove my F-250 on and off the ramps and no problemo. I'm no structural designer, but I've fabbed and welded a lot as a heavy truck mechanic where the driver and the public's lives depended on the work so I think I've absorbed a little bit about design strength. These ramps have a LOT of vertical ribs on the underside that contact the floor surface which of course gives them their load strength. It's common sense if any rib or ramp side is on a stone or on a surface high spot then a number of the ribs are not going to contact the flooring therefore unable to support any weight and with a heavy load the ramp is going to crack and break. Guess I'll be selling my lighter duty Tundra ones. Odd thing is, reading the specs when I bought it, the 1/2 ton 4WD Tundra only weighs 500-600 pounds less than my F-250 4WD Supercab long bed.
 
#30 ·
You just need to drive up and over them and see if they hold up when the truck comes down on them.
 
#32 ·
It might bug you for folks to hijack your thread... but think about it for a moment. If people have something on-topic to post, why would this stop them? People other than you read the responses and their interests are wide. I am GLAD I read about the topside creeper, never knew they existed but I know my aching back will encourage me to get one. We have lots of bandwidth, we can be patient. Not lecturing you really, more like thinking out loud cuz I have been bugged in similar situations.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top