Re: SES with Code 1275 questions and How do you open the IDM?
Kevin/Bill Thanks for the replies!Would have gotten back sooner, but DSL down at home and off work a couple days.
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Have you ohmed out the injector solenoid itself?
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I have not, but I thought that is what I was doing when checking continuity from the IDM connector with everything plugged in. IOW I unplugged IDM and checked between Orange (High side) and Tan/blk (#5) and got 3.2 ohms, and wiggling the harness and connectors right to the VC didn't change or show intermittent open.
When I had the VC off I ohmed through the gasket connector and unplugged connector on injector side and ohmed through the UVC harness with same result. I did not unplug the UVC harness from the injector to isolate it and check injector solenoid by itself.
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Also eyeball the VC gasket pins closely for burnt or corroded connectors
[/ QUOTE ].
I'll recheck that, Checked the up pins in the gasket but did not pull gasket off to check the ones pointing away. That being said the harness connectors on both sides looked really good.
Got the IDM open and found no water,corrosion or any obvious bad components, no discoloration or hot spots on board etc, not that it means anything.
[ QUOTE ]
Did it pass an ohm test from the #5 inj to pin #8 on IDM. Ckt#559 (T/BK wire)?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, 3.4 ohms between orange and t/bk going through the IDM connector. Wiggling did not change it. I did not unplug the connector at the injector and check the tan/blk by itself, but figured it was good if continuity was going through the solenoid and back on the common(orange).
In terms of the cold engine Vs Hot, It runs on 7 from a cold start. After clearing code sets SES immediatley upon start up. The way I figured the problem was on #5 before the scanner was the finger test. Started engine and after idling for a bit put finger on the maninfold outlet near the head one by one. #5 was cold when the rest were getting warm to the touch.
Swapping solenoids is a good idea, just need to borrow scan tool again to re-check.
Will recheck everything, but as of yet can't find an open in #5 ckt.If there is no open and solenoid swapping doesn't move things around, than does this mean swap the IDM?
Thanks Very Much!
ddog
Kevin/Bill Thanks for the replies!Would have gotten back sooner, but DSL down at home and off work a couple days.
[ QUOTE ]
Have you ohmed out the injector solenoid itself?
[/ QUOTE ]
I have not, but I thought that is what I was doing when checking continuity from the IDM connector with everything plugged in. IOW I unplugged IDM and checked between Orange (High side) and Tan/blk (#5) and got 3.2 ohms, and wiggling the harness and connectors right to the VC didn't change or show intermittent open.
When I had the VC off I ohmed through the gasket connector and unplugged connector on injector side and ohmed through the UVC harness with same result. I did not unplug the UVC harness from the injector to isolate it and check injector solenoid by itself.
[ QUOTE ]
Also eyeball the VC gasket pins closely for burnt or corroded connectors
[/ QUOTE ].
I'll recheck that, Checked the up pins in the gasket but did not pull gasket off to check the ones pointing away. That being said the harness connectors on both sides looked really good.
Got the IDM open and found no water,corrosion or any obvious bad components, no discoloration or hot spots on board etc, not that it means anything.
[ QUOTE ]
Did it pass an ohm test from the #5 inj to pin #8 on IDM. Ckt#559 (T/BK wire)?
[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, 3.4 ohms between orange and t/bk going through the IDM connector. Wiggling did not change it. I did not unplug the connector at the injector and check the tan/blk by itself, but figured it was good if continuity was going through the solenoid and back on the common(orange).
In terms of the cold engine Vs Hot, It runs on 7 from a cold start. After clearing code sets SES immediatley upon start up. The way I figured the problem was on #5 before the scanner was the finger test. Started engine and after idling for a bit put finger on the maninfold outlet near the head one by one. #5 was cold when the rest were getting warm to the touch.
Swapping solenoids is a good idea, just need to borrow scan tool again to re-check.
Will recheck everything, but as of yet can't find an open in #5 ckt.If there is no open and solenoid swapping doesn't move things around, than does this mean swap the IDM?
Thanks Very Much!
ddog