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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 f250 automatic trans was out driving my truck today using the shift on the fly I don’t have a vacuum hubs I have mile marker so I had the hubs locked in. I was shifting in and out of four-wheel-drive on the dash went to do it a 4 time and nothing I stoped getting a dash indicator. I did check all the fuses they checked good. I have not checked power at the shift motor. I did pull the shift motor off and if I put 12 bolts to it it does move. Question if I reverse the the power on the motor it should turn back. Right. Second question wear would I start to find what is wrong I do know so electrical but not that much thanks.


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2000 F350 CC DRW HD Edition, 4r100, ESOF, AIS, 4”, Gear Vendor, hpx, frx Mishimoto trans cooler
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From your post, I cannot determine whether your problem is a failure of your dash light to illuminate, or your transfer case to engage. Not sure if getting “nothing“ indicates that you confirmed not having engagement, or if that was in reference to the indicator. If uncertain about engagement, and you have the motor reinstalled, suggest you disengage Mile marker hubs, put it in four-wheel-drive, and see if you can manually turn the front driveshaft.

during my years of lurking on here, I have encountered threads that cover every element of transfer case malfunction. I suspect that’s why you have not gotten a response to this in a couple of days. Further searching on your part should locate everything you might want to know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry let me clarify it was going in to four wheel drive fine the dash light would come on and the t case would switch. I went to switch it from two wheel drive back to four wheel drive and I got no dash light and no shift on the t case. My mile marker hubs were working and was locked in.
I have since pulled the t case shift motor and it seams weak and does not want to switch ever time putting power to it manually. Tomorrow I and going to check and see if it switches plugged in on the truck I am also going to see if I can switch the t case with a wrench to make sure it is not stuck.

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Do you have any codes? There are transfercase shift codes that can help us narrow down the cause.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Allow me to clarify through “ that”.. Clearly operator error and abuse.
Rewrite what you did. It might help.
I would love to know how this is operator or abuse on my part the system is designed to shift like that. I went to go back to 4h do to road conditions. All I want a is a little direction on wear to start testing to see what went wrong. Thank you.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Do you have any codes? There are transfercase shift codes that can help us narrow down the cause.
I will try and scan the truck tonight. Thanks for the advice did not think of scanning it as it did not set a check engine light. I hope my scanner will pick them up. I let you know. Thank you.


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I'm partial to FORScan Lite on a phone, laptop or android head unit, with an OBDII dongle, for scanner cheaply and effectively. If you need one, there's a how-to thread in the FAQ section of this forum.

I've attached a nice troubleshooting guide from FTE for the ESOF system you could work your way through. It worked for me, as I had problems with mine staying in 2WD when I bought my rig.

Check the easy stuff first - good call on the shift motor. You can reverse the power and it should operate in reverse. Make sure the connector to the shift motor snaps on tight - mine would not latch and caused an open circuit at times.

Check the shift relays under the hood - and check for power and ground on the appropriate pins of the sockets these relays live in.

Details on my troubleshooting of this system in my maintenance thread, starting at post #10:

 

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Was in a bad mood.
The four connectors on your driver’s side fender liner can be disconnected. Two go to the trans and transfer case. They can be connected to the109 or whatever the***number it is” break out box” ( Dont recall PIN number) I just know it’s in it’s red Rotunda box for about $1k, that I bought decades ago, back when I had a full head of auburn hair and wasn’t having to cope with you knuckleheads.
It’s nothing more than a huge lap of numbered sockets that you plug your multimeter leads into following WSM. Used it twice. Can chase faster.

Ok son, I am one to skim on original writing, TDS forever forgive me.
Before getting two deep.
Did you have somebody from a safe distance watch to see if the axle shafts are turning?
Have you checked your hubs?
Have you checked voltage to your shift solenoid?
Only time I see Issues with SOF itself is from a critter chewing the two unrotected wires at the shift motor OR a boy that hit the brakes hard orbit a major bump and the coffee drenched the HVAC controls.
I do know who can be of help iif further assistance is needed. RT. Not only is a an EX retired doctor ( sadly from the mid1800s to present.. They passed and pass out MD licenses down there on a wing and a prayer) but he has A LOT of knowledge ( like global global warming in Greenland )and has probably seen everything come down the internet.
He is extremely friendly and helpful. That man actually sent 30 pounds of Ford Factory manuals to you our former TDS member Googs in Australia, stating to me, “ I don’t need them any more. I have a photographic memory” we were friends for years and during that period,his later statement was incorrect but He or Kevin or Dan will get you there.
WSM charts don’t go away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I will try and scan the truck tonight. Thanks for the advice did not think of scanning it as it did not set a check engine light. I hope my scanner will pick them up. I let you know. Thank you.


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Well I got it code scanned and no codes. I have found two relay’s with hi resistance will have to replace them tomorrow. I really could use a wiring diagram for the system. Thanks mike.


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1999 ford f250
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Rectangle Schematic Font Parallel Pattern

Product Rectangle Font Slope Schematic

Rectangle Schematic Font Slope Parallel
 
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Nice! Thanks for getting the schematics for Mike.
Mike, Because PCM doesn’t run transfer
Mike, What relay location number were these two relays? How did you determine this high resistance? At its holder? In its circuit or in BOTH relays themselves?
I am certain that you recall the facts
I am certain you will share those facts along with whatever ohm ( your bovine way out) reading tapped, what they were.
Let this sit. It’s a rouse from other forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Was in a bad mood.
The four connectors on your driver’s side fender liner can be disconnected. Two go to the trans and transfer case. They can be connected to the109 or whatever the***number it is” break out box” ( Dont recall PIN number) I just know it’s in it’s red Rotunda box for about $1k, that I bought decades ago, back when I had a full head of auburn hair and wasn’t having to cope with you knuckleheads.
It’s nothing more than a huge lap of numbered sockets that you plug your multimeter leads into following WSM. Used it twice. Can chase faster.

Ok son, I am one to skim on original writing, TDS forever forgive me.
Before getting two deep.
Did you have somebody from a safe distance watch to see if the axle shafts are turning?
Have you checked your hubs?
Have you checked voltage to your shift solenoid?
Only time I see Issues with SOF itself is from a critter chewing the two unrotected wires at the shift motor OR a boy that hit the brakes hard orbit a major bump and the coffee drenched the HVAC controls.
I do know who can be of help iif further assistance is needed. RT. Not only is a an EX retired doctor ( sadly from the mid1800s to present.. They passed and pass out MD licenses down there on a wing and a prayer) but he has A LOT of knowledge ( like global global warming in Greenland )and has probably seen everything come down the internet.
He is extremely friendly and helpful. That man actually sent 30 pounds of Ford Factory manuals to you our former TDS member Googs in Australia, stating to me, “ I don’t need them any more. I have a photographic memory” we were friends for years and during that period,his later statement was incorrect but He or Kevin or Dan will get you there.
WSM charts don’t go away.
Ya sorry you were in a bad mood the other day. Yes I could of re written my post to I see that now. I appreciate your help and I will use it tonight to do more test.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Nice! Thanks for getting the schematics for Mike.
Mike, Because PCM doesn’t run transfer
Mike, What relay location number were these two relays? How did you determine this high resistance? At its holder? In its circuit or in BOTH relays themselves?
I am certain that you recall the facts
I am certain you will share those facts along with whatever ohm ( your bovine way out) reading tapped, what they were.
Let this sit. It’s a rouse from other forum.
I will try and make a video of how I tested my relays tonight to show that way I can be told if I am doing it right and hopefully help someone else to. not to good at electrical stuff but I do try.


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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I will try and make a video of how I tested my relays tonight to show that way I can be told if I am doing it right and hopefully help someone else to. not to good at electrical stuff but I do try.


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Ok here the video I made. If you can and want to let me know if I did it right.


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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
I also got my scanner to work and was able to test the gem I did get a p1867 code and a P 1812. I have power and grounds at the relay block. I can also see the gem seeing the switch input when changing from 2h to 4h to 4l it also have 4.6v at 2h 2.6v At 4h and 1v at 4l on the dark blue wire at the switch. I am going to print the wiring diagram and start the pin point test E and track down what’s going on.
 
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Gem will not cover transfer. All do appreciate ohming of the relays with your Fluke for Snap On/ made for in Korea multimetering of without the correct OTC gold test pins to measure? Are you wanting to get 4x4 back? Are you ready to stop playing be DNR I science and just stop eating time and just go back to basics on a decadees old mechanical and electrical system?
First you check and verify all mechanical functions.
Then you look at electrical. You visually inspect.
You don’t waste time on decades old relays that cost under $10. You throw out and put new in. Then if all else is no go, then you start getting deep.
Son,,, You either don’t live where getting
out to get essentials or save lives in bad conditions or your customers( I’m not saying anything as I’ve been warned to be good) or it has not dawned on how how to get back up quick.
The system is sound. Don’t waste time trying to find something that’s probably not there, while tripping over the obvious.
Now go back to square one if you ( because au know you are not in emergent need)
want 4x4 and go back to your basic diagnostic and THEN go from their.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm partial to FORScan Lite on a phone, laptop or android head unit, with an OBDII dongle, for scanner cheaply and effectively. If you need one, there's a how-to thread in the FAQ section of this forum.

I've attached a nice troubleshooting guide from FTE for the ESOF system you could work your way through. It worked for me, as I had problems with mine staying in 2WD when I bought my rig.

Check the easy stuff first - good call on the shift motor. You can reverse the power and it should operate in reverse. Make sure the connector to the shift motor snaps on tight - mine would not latch and caused an open circuit at times.

Check the shift relays under the hood - and check for power and ground on the appropriate pins of the sockets these relays live in.

Details on my troubleshooting of this system in my maintenance thread, starting at post #10:

Hi Bwst is there any way to trigger the gem to send the signal to shift the t case motor using FORScan lite I have looked on it and I am not finding anything. I check powers and grounds at the pdb. And at the relay holder I have the power and grounds. The pinpoint test says if I have more than 10 volts I need to repair that circuit. Apparently I need my hand held as do to the fact I am not good at electrical.


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