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I did not need the spindle puller but like I said earlier start with Pep boys for your hub socket. The one that worked for me dose not look like the one in your link but they could be diferent. My plan of action was to buy many different sockets to keep from running back and forth to the store - I live out of town and would waste a lot of time running around loking for sockets.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I was looking back at the site where I ordered the spindle nut wrench, and they used the same picture for the 4 prong as the 6 prong. So I'm hoping they send the right one. The one I ordered was the kd 3246. (lots of axle nut tools here) > Axle Nut Sockets

I'll try pep boys if it's wrong. I know I'm getting OCD here, but here's my list.



Still need:
anti-sieze
gear lube (weight?)
friction reducer for gear lube
spindle studs?
zerk plugs?
punch to drive out caliper sliders?
high temp grease - Mobil 1 syn grease
beer
rolling diaphragm seals, National and Chicago Rawhide?
lock washers

Already purchased:
u-joints Dana Spicer SPL55-4X (greaseable)
axle nut wrench and spindle puller tool.
(4) 1.75's of scotch = about 154 beers


Thanks for the help
 

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well if the list is like food ingredients and is in order by volume or % ,,, then i think BEER should be closer to the top of the list.:eusa_dance:
 

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Discussion Starter #24
:lol: The beer is for my friends at the marina where I'm doing the job(s). I allready have (4) 1.75's of Scotch for myself and friends.

As soon as the boat goes in the water, I'm taking a week off and doing numerous maintenance jobs, too long to list.

I'll have to adjust my list.
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
I tried that spindle nut socket and it is the right one! It's a Performance tool # w83010 (I think the KD 3246 is the same?) and the spindle puller is 10208. The Spicer ds u-733 u-joints look beefier than the ones on the truck, I hope they fit. I bought the Helms manuals too, had I known how good they were, Id'a bought them sooner.. ($98.00). Do you have to put friction modifier in the front axle? the guy at ford said it isn't limited slip. He said the rear is tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hopefully, just one last question. I know Nit said use Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Will I need to thoroughly remove all the old grease so as to not have 2 incompatible greases that might not mix? In that case, Will I need to remove the seal from the back of the hubs to get at the bearings to clean them? or leave the grease seals alone and some how flush the old grease out? same with the locking hubs and spindle bearings, they need to be all cleaned out right? I'd like to use the same grease in all those parts, and the u-joints too if that's possible. thanks.. Dan
 

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you should be replacing the seals too, however you can get them out and put them back in, remove the nut, etc so your at the point you can slide the hub off, then with the hub in place put back on one washer adn one nut loosely, now grab teh disc adn pull it towards you and down, like a slide hammer , the washer will catch on the inner bearing adn pop the seal straight out. At this point you can auctually re-use the seal. You are better off to wash out the bearigns and re-pack them now, useing syn grease it should be the last tiem you do it. You may have to re-grease the hubs in a couple of years.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks Nit! I really appreciate the help. Tomorrow I hope to actually do this job, or at least start it.
 

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bout time too, I could have flown out there and done it before you got ready, however even beign Canadian I ain't stupid enough to come to New York in winter, the west coast is really quite warm if not wet.
Glad to see you've got all your stuff ready, it should be a cake walk with this much prep.
Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
yea I know, I'm OCD.. I'm finally on vacation and ready to get started today, of course I had to have one more glitch before starting, had to get a root canal yesterday, at least I have plenty of pain management supplies on hand..
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I just jacked it up and the driver side ball joint moved about a quarter inch (i checked the passenger side yesterday and it was fine, figures). guess I'm looking for ball joints now, I have the Helms manual, but I could use any words of wisdom just the same. thanks, Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Brainstorm!

I think I just figured it out. The job has gotten bigger to include replacing all the rubber bushings. Since the whole axle will be disconnected from the truck, why not tip it up vertically, and slide the axle shafts down in from a ladder or something? that would prevent the axle from nose-diving. The springs can stay attached to the axle and used as handles. The problem I had with this whole thing is worrying about destroying the differential inner seal. If you search "front axle leak" you find leaks of the passenger side is common after doing u-joints. How hard could it be to stand up the axle vertically?
 

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It will be heavy and awkward. Careful you don't dump a bunch of grit hiding in the axle tube down into the dif. Sometimes an old stiff seal just can't be disturbed no matter how careful you are.
 

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Hey Stan96, just realized that your in the Rochester area. Im a tech and I can give you a hand if you want. Not sure why you think the whole axle has to come out. None of it is really all that hard. Send me an email or a pm and we can figure out what is going on.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
It will be heavy and awkward. Careful you don't dump a bunch of grit hiding in the axle tube down into the dif. Sometimes an old stiff seal just can't be disturbed no matter how careful you are.
yeah, good point, thanks, I'm not sure what I'm thinkin now...
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hey Stan96, just realized that your in the Rochester area. Im a tech and I can give you a hand if you want. Not sure why you think the whole axle has to come out. None of it is really all that hard. Send me an email or a pm and we can figure out what is going on.
Yes, I could use some help, thanks. will email tomorrow or the next day..
 

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the axle weighs about 500 pounds plus about 80 each for the springs, unless you have a forklift don't do it.
I have routinely done this job before, use a long rod with a small hook on the end to clean out teh long tube. If you're goign to do the spring bushings too, good plan!, then drop the whole thing on the long side, first then do the short side. If you drop the whole axle you will have problems twistign the springs back into the hangers.
First you do the pass side adn the pumpkin bushings adn remount it and then do the drivers side, I can do both at the same tiem but you must hang the springs first adn then jack the axle up to the seat and do up the u-bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #38 (Edited)
Nit, thanks for the advice. So do you think if I clean out the axle tube real good, clean up and de-bur the axle and oil it up good with 90w, that it's possible I won't destroy the inner seal? Do you (or anyone) have a
technique for preventing the axle from nose-diving into the inner seal? My other alterantive is to rip the whole thing apart, remove the springs, sway bar, tracbar, main u-bolts, hang the axle from a backhoe, re-install the passenger side axle, and then re-install differential with all new hardware including new bushings all around. I do tend to overkill, but I'm hoping to drive it for at least 7 more years (one more set of tires). I rarely use the 4x4 option, usually a few times during the winter for 10 or 15 minutes or to pull a boat out at the launch, so even if the seals leaked, there would still be some oil in it after it leaked down to the axle, right? Thanks, to you and all the others for the valuable adivce..

Dan
 

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I've never had one leak after i pulled it out yet, not that I have done hundreds either about a dozen, I grease up teh end of the shaft and try to hold it up as long as I can, and then just as you fell the seal slowly rotate as you push it in, then you feel teh side gear and rotate to match the splines.

The thing with the springs is that they are used in a twisting motion as much as a forward motion to control the axle, approach them as if they are pre-loaded with twist, I find a long tapered punch, a good pry-bar, a BFH, two jacks and a huge cresent wrench to be very helpful.

Install the front hangers first in the frame and then the rear of the spring, and lastly the front of the spring( do not tighten), you can if you're lucky then jack up the axle to the spring, and with tools and force get the axle to the spring bolt to seat it. On some you need to release the front of the spring and pound that bolt in last.

The huge cresent wrench is to twist the springs.

Good luck

Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #40 (Edited)
Best price I found on the greasable spicer ball joints is $60 a side here - DAN700238-2X I think they are the right ones.. Actually that part number link has been superseded and they are shipping the non-greasable 707469x.
 
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