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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Just one more question (hopefully). I haven't taken it apart yet, so I can't tell, on the end of the axle tube, it doesn't look like there's a seal there, right where the yoke meets the axle tube, it looks like metal on metal with rust coming out, is that some kind of a seal? I've heard people talk about installing an after market seal to stop leaks, not that I'm planning on doing that, but it doesn't look like there's any space to add a seal. so is there a seal on the end of the axle tube? (monday I'm actually going work on this thing finally)
 

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Discussion Starter #42
anyone know?
 

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Im pretty sure theres two seals per side. Theres one tube seal at the very inside of the tube, right next to the diff, then there is one on the inside end of the spindle. If i remember all this right, theres a seal on the inside of the hub, and then the hub's cap has a oring sorta deal on it.

Theres no seal from the ujoint all the way to the other end of the tube im pretty sure....mine doesnt have one xD


anthony
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks 91Diesel, I actually got the spindles off today, and it does look like there's no seal at the end of the tube, will know better tomorrow. Talk about a pain to get the spindles off, you need the the BFSH, Big, ahem, slide hamer. that wimpy one from the local auto parts store did nothing.
 

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A big hammer and some magazines do fine as well..just put the magazines over the spindle and hit it back and forth. Thats what worked for me. The seal im talking about goes on an O.D. on the outside axleshaft i think...i might just be crazy though xD Theres no seal on the outsides of the tubes.


Oh yeah...i hope your using anti-sieze for assembly?


anthony
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Anyone know if brake cleaner or gasoline will ruin the seal inside the spindle? the one right next to the caged roller bearing. Thanks Dan
 

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Dont use gas xD

If you have a parts washer, it will be fine. Gas would probably work but its not safe at all and makes more mess/stinks/not as good as brake clean. I always just use brake clean for everything. It evaporates fast and washes grease and dirt away. Just go to the parts store and get a case of 12 or just a few if you dont want that many, youll need it later if you ever do a lot of work on your truck.

anthony
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Well, I got her done yesterday and there's no leaks so far (didn’t replace the differential seals). Thanks to everyone for the advice, it most definitely made a huge difference. Here’s my list's in case it could help someone out.

Parts
Hub seals #415960 (Timkin)
Ball joints #707469x (Spicer)
U-joints #DS U-733 (Spicer greasable)
Rolling diaphragm seals #710413 (Moog)
RTV silicone
Gear oil
Anti-seize
4 cans brake cleaner
1 tube Mobil 1 synthetic grease
1 container Mobil 1 synthetic grease


Tools
Spindle puller #10208
Locking hub socket #w83010
Slide hammer (you might need a huge one)
Ball joint press #27023
Ball joint press additional attachments (required) #27165
Impact wrench (an electric impact worked ok)
Jacks and stands
Installation tools for hub seals and rolling diaphragms, 4 inch dia. on the hub seals, 2 on the diaphragms.
Torque wrench,
Thick rubber gloves (tough coat 2 work excellent)
Vacuum cleaner to clean crud out of axle tubes
Sockets, top ball joint 1-1/16 bottom 1-5/16
Cutting torch would be ideal, acetylene worked ok

For anyone doing this for the first time, I recommend getting the nuts all the way off the ball joints, and put them part way back on before knocking the ball joints lose, otherwise, the ball joint will turn and will be hard to get the nut the rest of the way off.

On the end of the axle that goes into the differential, there was a bur all the way around the diameter of the shaft, I filed that off and sandpapered it. I made a huge Q-tip out of a threaded rod and socket and paper towel to get some of the crud out of the axle tubes.

Anti-seized the heck out of everything.

The job cost me about $450.00 including the spindle tool and hub socket.
:cheers:
 
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