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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
96 7.3. 160cc baby Swamps, 1.0 a/r turbo, no EBPV, set GH tunes on a Hydra chip, intercooler.

If I let off the accelerator suddenly after winding it out pretty hard RPMS drop to 0 and I have to restart. Restarts instantly. Has had IPR valve and sensor replaced with quality parts not to long ago. CPS has been changed a few times though not after this problem started -- has a genuine Ford part. Tried a different accelerator pedal assembly. Once thoroughly warmed up problem disappears.
 

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It would be interesting to know if your low idle speed settings have anything to do with it. I wouldn't think so, but if you happened to have a tune with a factory idle speed setting, maybe see if it does it on that tune. I know when I had my DIY idle controller, I could initially set it at 1300 rpm on a stone cold start and after a couple of minutes the speed would gradually increase up to maybe 2k as the engine warmed. After that, I could lower the setting back down and it would be rock solid. What "weight" oil are you using? Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It would be interesting to know if your low idle speed settings have anything to do with it. I wouldn't think so, but if you happened to have a tune with a factory idle speed setting, maybe see if it does it on that tune. I know when I had my DIY idle controller, I could initially set it at 1300 rpm on a stone cold start and after a couple of minutes the speed would gradually increase up to maybe 2k as the engine warmed. After that, I could lower the setting back down and it would be rock solid. What "weight" oil are you using? Cheers!
5W40 synthetic
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Try removing the chip, and see what happens. That is usually the standard protocol before trying to diagnose certain issues.
s
I believe I have a CA. computer because the truck had a fuel damper. If I remove the chip I guess it would revert to split-shot programming and run terribly with my baby Swamps. Still, i can try and see what happens. It hasn't always done it with the chip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
96 7.3. 160cc baby Swamps, 1.0 a/r turbo, no EBPV, set GH tunes on a Hydra chip, intercooler.

Here is something I don't understand. I found more than one reference to something like this problem being a dirty/sticky IPR. The suggestion was to drain the fuel bowl and fill it with a solvent. But while that might clean the fuel side of the injectors it would do nothing for the IPR as I understand the system.
 

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It's an interesting problem that I don't ever recall seeing! You are correct that the solvent would do nothing for the IPR (it's oil only). I figure the lower weight synthetic oil would only help. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's an interesting problem that I don't ever recall seeing! You are correct that the solvent would do nothing for the IPR (it's oil only). I figure the lower weight synthetic oil would only help. Cheers!
The oil combined with "Hot Shot" has almost completely cured a cold "stiction" surge, but, then again, let's see what "winter," such as it is in Texas, will bring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There is also another problem that is strictly during warmup which is defueling under heavy acceleration.
in fact the Wildman tune bucks and runs horribly under full pedal and then does fine fully warmed up. I am starting to be suspicious of the baro sensor acting up when cold or maybe the MAP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is also another problem that is strictly during warmup which is defueling under heavy acceleration.
in fact the Wildman tune bucks and runs horribly under full pedal and then does fine fully warmed up. I am starting to be suspicious of the baro sensor acting up when cold or maybe the MAP.
Not map or baro. Went to scan it and won't communicate. My Autel Maxisys Elite -- high $$$ professional level scanner used to communicate with the Wildman chip. I am going to pull chip and look for fault codes and if my scan tool communicates again, I will get with GearGhead and ask them if they can send me a "diagnostic" file that will allow communication.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not map or baro. Went to scan it and won't communicate. My Autel Maxisys Elite -- high $$$ professional level scanner used to communicate with the Wildman chip. I am going to pull chip and look for fault codes and if my scan tool communicates again, I will get with GearGhead and ask them if they can send me a "diagnostic" file that will allow communication.
Well, I got the Autel to communicate and got P0340-- cam sensor. Erased code, test drove, P0340 came back. Replaced cam sensor with genuine blue Ford part I had lying around still sealed in plastic package. NO CHANGE! This is getting frustrating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
96 7.3. 160cc baby Swamps, 1.0 a/r turbo, no EBPV, set GH tunes on a Hydra chip, intercooler.

If I let off the accelerator suddenly after winding it out pretty hard RPMS drop to 0 and I have to restart. Restarts instantly. Has had IPR valve and sensor replaced with quality parts not to long ago. CPS has been changed a few times though not after this problem started -- has a genuine Ford part. Tried a different accelerator pedal assembly. Once thoroughly warmed up problem disappears.
Well, I got the Autel to communicate and got P0340-- cam sensor. Erased code, test drove, P0340 came back. Replaced cam sensor with genuine blue Ford part I had lying around still sealed in plastic package. NO CHANGE! This is getting frustrating.
DIAGNOSED: Bad IPC sensor despite it being an almost new Motorcraft part. That is why it took me so long. After unplugging it stall problem on decel is gone. My theory: when you let off under certain conditions the truck goes into a fuel cut mode until it drops to idle. But IPC sensor was slow to recognize this reporting there was still injector oil pressure and did not always restore injection control pressure in time. Anyway, will put new one in tomorrow. So why could I save it by applying a little pedal?
 

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You are the first person I have read where this happened! Excellent work on finding it! Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You are the first person I have read where this happened! Excellent work on finding it! Cheers!
Well, the proof will be tomorrow when I replace the ICP sensor. Feeling optimistic. I went back through my Amazon history and it turns out I bought an ICP sensor with a genuine Ford part number, but NOT a genuine Ford part. Auto parts #s are not subject to copyright from what I have been told. Does it makes sense to you that this is the ICP sensor? It seems that the presence of a check engine light changes parameters because the truck shifts much more harshly with the light on as I have noticed before. The stalling transitioning from balls-to-the-wall to foot of the pedal is definitely gone.
 

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Hopefully that's it. I know you can get harsh shifts with a bad ICP. Hopefully the new one is genuine Ford/Motorcraft. Personally, I try to avoid Amazon/Ebay for any sensor-related items (for all my vehicles). Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hopefully that's it. I know you can get harsh shifts with a bad ICP. Hopefully the new one is genuine Ford/Motorcraft. Personally, I try to avoid Amazon/Ebay for any sensor-related items (for all my vehicles). Cheers!
New one installed, came from Maxwell Ford in Ford packaging. It looks an awful lot like the cheapie I took out with a white dot and "made in Mexico." Greatly reduced problem to where syndrome vanishes in less than a mile of driving, but did not completely eliminate it! So does seem injector oil pressure related. IPR was replaced with genuine Motorcraft about a year ago. What is happening???
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
New one installed, came from Maxwell Ford in Ford packaging. It looks an awful lot like the cheapie I took out with a white dot and "made in Mexico." Greatly reduced problem to where syndrome vanishes in less than a mile of driving, but did not completely eliminate it! So does seem injector oil pressure related. IPR was replaced with genuine Motorcraft about a year ago. What is happening???
Desperate measures now!! I pull the inspection plug out of the top of the HPOP. I sucked out maybe a pint and a half of oil. I added about a 20 oz. can of Berryman Chemtool solvent mix to the reservoir. Everything in the Berryman's is highly volatile so it won't be contaminating the oil for long. I know this might be hard on the injectors, but, you know, desperate measures! And the injectors were still getting about 50%+ oil in the mix. On the test drive with the truck pretty well cooled off I could not make it stall, although it dipped below idle and recovered one time. I also noticed a stronger smoother top end on my most extreme tune so that was a pleasant surprise. What would be sludged up in the HPOP, the IPR or is there anywhere else? I heard there is a screen somewhere but not until 1999?
 

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The 94 and 95 models had an edge edge filter on the IPR (up to engine serial number 187099). After that, the edge filter was moved to the HPOP. That's about the only place I can think of for possible buildup. The HPOP Reservoir Gasket with the screen was a 99.5 to 03 change (can't use that gasket if it didn't come that way as it will crack the reservoir if you do). Cheers!
 
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