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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for some advice to bring my truck back to life. My Ford F-250 7.3L truck has been sitting for the past 5.5 years. The last couple of weeks the water pump has been replaced (weep hole opened up about the 3rd year of sitting), both fuel tanks removed and rinsed out and reinstalled, all new water hoses and anti freeze, and of course new batteries. I've also hand cranked the motor several times with the fantasy of getting some oil to the top of the motor. I would appreciate some feed back on what else I could or should be doing before I fire it up.
Thank you,
Ken
 

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Change the oil , drain the fuel bowl , let the GP's heat up , Turn the key to start ...
 

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Remove the plug on the top of the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) Reservoir top off the oil level if needed. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Sweet

IT STARTED!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you both! A very happy house hold here. It has been sitting so long I'm assuming I'll have a gasket or some sort of seal to replace once a month for the next year or so. We'll see.
Thanks again,

Ken
 

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Remove the plug on the top of the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP) Reservoir top off the oil level if needed. Cheers!
Or wait until the engine fills it like it should unless the lpop is shot
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've been starting the truck and letting it run for about 10 or so minutes for the last couple of hours. The only issues I've come a crossed is that the fuel filter light stays on while it is running and it takes about 20 to 30 seconds to start. I know the glow plugs are shot, but the truck was plugged in all day and the heater does work. With a new fuel filter installed and no visible leaks I'm not finding a solution as of yet other than a sensor I need to learn about. The plan for now is to plug it in over night and see what happens in the morning.
 

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I've been starting the truck and letting it run for about 10 or so minutes for the last couple of hours. The only issues I've come a crossed is that the fuel filter light stays on while it is running and it takes about 20 to 30 seconds to start. I know the glow plugs are shot, but the truck was plugged in all day and the heater does work. With a new fuel filter installed and no visible leaks I'm not finding a solution as of yet other than a sensor I need to learn about. The plan for now is to plug it in over night and see what happens in the morning.
The block heater is not a substitute for glow plugs. You really need to get the GP's working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Up date;
Yes, I realize the block heater is not a substitute for the glow plugs, just got it fired up after a number of years. I do have a fuel leak somewhere, I've read that the most common leak is the fuel drain valve. I have wet fuel under the Fuel Filter Vacuum Indicator which is pretty much at the top of the filter bowl. I'm thinking next week I'll change out the indicator then see what develops. Thanks again.
 

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The Fuel Restriction Sensor is a very common leaker. They just can't handle the constant pulses from the fuel pump. Many of us, including myself, just use a 1/8 NPT plug instead. If you do this don't overtighten the plug as the Fuel Pressure Regulator housing cracks easily. Cheers!
 

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Or wait until the engine fills it like it should unless the lpop is shot
Rick,
If the hpop reservoir is less than full, the air in the reservoir must have an escape route before the lpop can fill it. What escape path does the air in the reservoir take in order to make room for the oil?
 

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Rick,
If the hpop reservoir is less than full, the air in the reservoir must have an escape route before the lpop can fill it. What escape path does the air in the reservoir take in order to make room for the oil?
Lets see if I remember this correctly .The engine starts using the oil in the res instantly to feed the injectors no matter what , thus making room for more oil . All the oil has to do is make it the top of the stand pipe . That is why the res is never completely full to the top .Its being used . There is also a return to the res from the HPOP for unused oil( back to the C case ) after it has been to the injectors . controlled by the IPR , important if the injectors are not firing .In the case of a no start from the IPR not closing its simple .All the oil returns to the C case immediately.

I would suspect the air is removed from the spill spouts . I would suspect the LPOP cannot supply much more than the injectors can use . The engine uses unfiltered oil at start up to make sure the res has what it needs to get things going .So basically . Return to C Case from the HPOP , Return to the C case from the IPR , return to the C case from the injector spill spouts. If everything is working properly , the PCM , IPR & IDM will be in charge ( along with the ICP sensor )
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If I just use a plug, won't that cause issues with the computer? Meaning, won't the computer start throwing codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I found the restriction sensor for $82.00, I also found the plug for $1.37. I installed the plug. It appears I still have a fuel leak somewhere. I keep getting a puddle of fuel towards the firewall, right behind the mechanism that diverts the fuel to the two heads . The leak has to be between the fuel filter and the mechanism that diverts the fuel to the two heads because I'm losing fuel pressure in between start ups (start up takes about 20 plus seconds of cranking). It is beginning to look like this repair is above my pay grade.
 

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The fuel restriction sensor does not provide any signals to the PCM. It only lights the Fuel Filter light on the dash. The sensor can be found (I think dieselorings.com or Riffraff have it for around $36. Cheers!
 

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I would suspect the air is removed from the spill spouts .
Thanks for the post. I agree with above.

Edited to ask another question:

Does the front bearing on the HPOP get its' lubrication from the suction side or the return side? I'm still curious whether a bad shaft seal could cause a reservoir leakdown and/or hard start. And if such a leakdown is possible, how to look/test for it.
 

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Thanks for the post. I agree with above.

Edited to ask another question:

Does the front bearing on the HPOP get its' lubrication from the suction side or the return side? I'm still curious whether a bad shaft seal could cause a reservoir leakdown and/or hard start. And if such a leakdown is possible, how to look/test for it.
Never heard of that one ,been around since O6.
 

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Well...s**t happens, been wrenchin' on a variety of machinery since `68. Nuthin' surprises me any more.
And I thought I was getting old LOL

Only been doing it for 40 yrs.
 

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