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Discussion Starter #1
Okay,
It looks like I need a slave cylinder for my clutch. Is there any fluids that need to be plumbed into it and bled? I've never played with one so I really don't know what it would take to change one.
Is it as simple as taking the old one out and putting the new one on there? How about some instructions? That reminds me, I'll check Baz's bible on this one. But anybodies input it very much welcome. Thanks!
 

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Yes it has brake fluid in it and will need bled.

There is a little rol pin that upi will have to knock out, its small like 1/8" so have a small nail or punch to knock it out, kind of a pain. once you get it back together you will need to bleed it. I like to leave it hanging loose with the bleeder as the highest point then have someone puch the pedal in and hold it while you break the bleeder loose. then tighten it back down, do this until you dont get anymore air. Make sure you keep fluid in it at the top also. Sometimes it can be a bear to bleed but just be patient and you will get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Okay, just did a huge search on this and it appears that lots of people had to buy a slave and a master because of the update. If I'm reading this right, they updated the parts in late 96, and I don't know when my truck was made, and I don't remember noticing where the lines came out of the master at. So, if I get the slave and it is the new style, I'll have to replace the master because it doesn't have enough volume to work the slave. Right? I'll check around town tomorrow and see if I can at least find a slave.
 

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I'm thinking its like the SD now where you get a master and slave cylinder all together and bled. Alot of them are goin to that setup. I put a slave and master assembly on my buddy Dodge a couple months back. Kinda cool its pre-bled, but hang on to your pocket book.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Have an update. It was shifting hard and it makes a noise like I have crickets in my transmission, a real annoying chirping noise. After a 30 mile jog to class, the is no noise and the transmission shifts better. Still not a good shift, but better. Is this normal for a slave cylinder problem, to not work when cold but better when warm? Is there a possibility that some parts and pieces just needed to mate together after the clutch/flywheel swap? Thanks for any help!
 
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