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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all, It's been awhile since I've been on here. Busy busy busy. Trucks been running great until now. So here's a little back story. In late 14' early 15' I was having trouble with my battery draining in an 8 hr span. Couldn't find the drain anywhere. Finally put new batteries in it and it located the short for me. Lucky it didn't catch the truck on fire. There was a small wire running the length of the frame, from the driver side battery to the topper, for the dome light in it. It had chaffed on the frame and was draining the battery. It literally burnt in two, melted to and stuck on other wires, and was brittle and falling apart as I removed it. Unfortunately, It was bundled and wrapped with every other wire on that frame and up into the engine compartment. Sorry, long post, just wanted to give you an idea where I'm at.

So now the ABS light is on. My Speedo, Tach, and Odom. Went off for a short period but have come back on. The ABS light will come on and stay on, after I press the brake while moving. It has been doing this for awhile now.

I also have a slight miss that has begun at warm up.
5/26/16, A.M. It started as I was pulling out of the drive. SES light came on went off for a bit a few miles down the road, but came back on shortly after. I was headed for the parts store to see if I could get a read on it. All the way there it had a slight miss. Around 900 RPM it would shudder but clear up if I went above 1000rpm. Couldn't get a signal with their reader and as he was trying, the truck died. Started the truck back up and it was idling fine, No SES light and ran fine for the rest of the day.

5/27/16, A.M. Started truck to warm up, SES light came on, slight miss, Tach sitting at about 600 RPM. Let the truck sit and idle to see if it would stop. After about 5 min. I heard the RPM's go up a little and it smoothed out. SES light went out. Drove fine all day, No missing and no SES light.
Also a week prior to this I've noticed that it's taking a little longer to crank. Not a lot but a few more revolutions. And once in a while I could feel a slight miss while driving when I started up, but no SES light and it didn't persist.

I believe the ABS isn't a related issue. I believe that is the VSS. I think the torched wire burnt a bare spot in that wire shorting it out.

I guess my question is, Could this new Issue be related to that scorched wire?
What other wires/harnesses, on the Driver side frame, should I be looking to replace? Might as well swap them all while Im in there.

Thanks for your time and any help is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thought maybe it would be a moisture issue. So I waited till yesterday afternoon to test it. It cranked normal. Turned over like it should and started, idled fine, and no SES light. Let it warm up for a few minutes. Took off down the road and in about a mile it started to miss and the SES light came on. I kept driving to see what would happen. Again within the 35-40 mph range, it would shudder when under power/acceleration. At one point i accelerated on a slight grade, it downshifted and the RPM jumped to around 2200 and the SES light went off but came back on immediately. Drove for maybe 10min and the light went out and the idle smoothed. Pulled over and let the truck sit for a minute then started it back up. Started fine and no SES idling smooth. I drove down the highway and around town stopping and starting it one more time with no more issues.

The UVCH has been replaced in the last 5 years. I'm gonna get out there today and start feeling around for any bare spots up top.
I've been trying to find different harnesses or schematics of the truck to no avail.
Thanks for looking guys.
 

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If the SES light has been on, then there will be a code stored. Pulling that code will tell you where to start looking for the problem.
Once you get the code, post it here and we can assist with troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, So I called Ford today to see if they could Scan my Codes. Couldn't get me in till next week, :|, seriously. Went to a Napa Service Center.
When I told them the issues I was having, they immediately said it needed injectors. Which immediately P.O.'d me.

They were having difficulties connecting to the computer. They got a few codes off of it but nothing pertaining to the SES and the miss.
The codes they pulled were Rear speed Sensor C1230, C1229, He suggested that was probably a rear bearing.
Also Wiper washer pump and Wiper motor I believe. Not having any issues with the wipers.
He never could really connect to the PCM to get the codes. Wanted me to leave the truck for tomorrow so they could check into that.
~With those odd codes and not being able to connect, Leads me to believe its tied to the stupid wire frying.
~So how do I go about Testing the OBDII connection to make sure that it's connected to the computer? So that I can get it scanned.

Thanks for your help brothers.
 

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Those C codes are from the ABS module, related to the rear wheel speed sensor. They wouldn't be caused by a bearing issue. C1229 is Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Center Coherency Fault and C1230 is Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure.

Apparently they can't connect to the PCM which would give you PXXXX codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks KL, I went out this morning after doing some reading and tried checking the OBD II issues. I have a Klein MM200, I tried OHMing the #4 pin and I'm not pulling up a reading, when I check the voltage on the #16 pin it jumped to 12v then steadily climbed to 22v before i pulled the lead out of the pin.
I also found a thread started by RT about the C1129 and C1230 codes. He mentioned that the 1230 is a continuity code, and as he was replacing a pigtail he noticed that the wire was corroded quit a bit. After replacing that he fixed his codes for the ABS issue he was having .
Most of the threads I've found about the OBDII not connecting to the PCM have to do with AE settings. I'm not really having any luck there.
I'm headed back out now to chase some wires and see what else i can find. Thanks for the help.

Just tried again with meter, OHM on the #4 pin was 0.0 and and power at #16 was 12.27. So if I have power and there is no resistance coming from the PCM, Why won't it talk to the scanner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey guys, still struggling with this. Cant figure out why I don't have communication with the PCM. I've talked with Bugman and he also doesn't understand why I can pull other codes but not P codes.
I did start a thread down in Electrical and Wiring. If someone can help me, it would be greatly appreciated. I'm no electrician.

I've tried to read a schematic i found on here. Pin#2 is the + on the BUS, 4 is ground, 5 power ground, 10 is negative on the BUS, 13 is (FEPS?), 16 is B+ which is power.

I was able to test the #2 and #10 pins. 10 I found no resistance, 0.0. The 2 i found .512 resistance. It was fluctuating and never settles on a number but floated in that area. Any thoughts.
I also tested the voltage just to for kicks, on 2 it was 19 on 10 it was 200. I have know Idea. Like I said I'm no electrician, and appreciate any help.
 

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For communications with your scan tool, you need 12V on pin 16, and resistance to chassis ground of less than 5 ohms on the two ground circuits, Pins 4 and 5.

When measuring resistance, it has to be on an unpowered circuit. The meter provides the power for checking resistance. If you use a meter set on resistance on a powered circuit, you could screw something up. Typical ohmmeters use a 9V battery, and the PCM circuits run at 5 V, so 9V from a meter could overpower the PCM circuits and toast something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For communications with your scan tool, you need 12V on pin 16, and resistance to chassis ground of less than 5 ohms on the two ground circuits, Pins 4 and 5.

When measuring resistance, it has to be on an unpowered circuit. The meter provides the power for checking resistance. If you use a meter set on resistance on a powered circuit, you could screw something up. Typical ohmmeters use a 9V battery, and the PCM circuits run at 5 V, so 9V from a meter could overpower the PCM circuits and toast something.
Well thats just my "DUMB" luck.
Thanks KL. I'll check the Resistance on 4 & 5. Sorry, I've had some health issues thats kept me from working on the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update. It's been almost a year and I'm finally getting somewhere. Like I said before Napa couldn't pull codes with their Snap on scanner. About a month back when leaving work, I pretty much lost all power. It started fine and idled fine. Once it warmed up I pulled out of the parking lot and it lost rpm and chugged. Would slowly gain rpm's with WOT. I limped straight to the house and didn't think i was gonna make it. With not being able to read codes and now this, I figured something had to be up with the PCM so I sent it to Swamps to be tested. It checked out fine and they sent it back. I ordered Auto Enginuity and was able to connect to the PCM finally and pull codes. The Right bank sounds fine on the buzz test. Left bank is weak on all injectors.

It threw codes after the Buzz test.
~P1272 Cylinder #2 High to Low side Open
~P1274 Cylinder #4 High to Low side Open
~P1294 Injector High Side Open Bank #2

All other codes pulled.
~P1316 Injector Driver Module
~P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory
~P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor

~C1230 Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Center Input Circuit Failure
~C1229 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Coherency Failure

~B1458
~B1434
~B1431 All 3 were Wiper control failures.

I'm guessing the Buzz test is showing that I have a problem with my UVCH on that bank. Unless it is the IDM itself. Any and all thoughts appreciated before I tear into it. Also is it worth replacing both UVCH's, Gaskets, and all GP's while I'm in there. Thanks everyone.

By the way AE is a god send. Put it on my BIL's 99 and adjusted tire size and is shifts buttery smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ordered UVCH, Gasket, and GP's last night from Guzzles. I know the GP's probably are ok but figured why not. I decided just to do that bank for now. External connectors seem fine. No signs of wear and are tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oil around GP

Got her tore open finally today. Gotta question on oil around the GP. I blew out all the oil sitting around the GP to keep it from going in the cylinder. All except for the last one. When I pulled my socket off there was a 1/4" of oil on it. How important is it keep that out of the cylinder? Is there anything i should do to get it out of the cylinder. It shouldn't be much, and theoretically it should burn off. Should I turn the fly wheel over manually? Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm up and running again. The UVCH was unplugged. All the connectors looked to be in good shape, not burnt. I went ahead and replaced it. I swapped out the glow plugs, and was able to remove them with no problem. They were covered in an thick oil sludge that had metallic dust in it. Not a significant amount but enough to see it in the sun. I've never seen any in my oil when i change it. I Changed out the harness. Turned the fly wheel over a few times by hand. Slapped my batteries back in, I had them on the trickle charger while I was working on it. Fired right up. Thanks for all the help gentleman.
 
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