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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been searching for the answers but lets face it, the search engine leaves a lot to be desired.

I'm wondering if there is some sort of mileage guide as to what service should be done when. I know that Ford has something on there website but it's not as clear as I would hope.

The other thing I'm hoping for is some sort of guide on how to replace the filters. I was just quoted some insane price from my dealer for replacing the fuel filters. If I'm having to do this every 20,000 KM I'd like to know how to do it myself. The other filter I would like to tackle is the tranny.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Cory,

Its all laid out in the owner's manual & the diesel suplement. If you bought your truck used, you can download pdf file of both books at http://www.ford.com/en/vehicles/owners/default.htm?referrer=home If you bought it new, & didn't get them, I'd go back to the dealer & request them.

Mostly, oil at 5000 to 7,500 miles, air at 30,000, trans at 30,000, coolant at 100,000, rear diff is "liftime", unless it gets wet, then change immediatly, front diff I don't remember, but I would guess about the same as the rear. Tires between 55 & 80 depending on load (its on the sticker stuck to the driver's side door frame.) Drain the HCFM (under the driver's seat inside the frame rail) every month.

If you have an auto, Mercon SP is the only authorized fluid, if you have a manual, regular mercon ATF is the recommended fill.

Good luck
 

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I think if you register your truck here: http://myford.fordvehicles.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=MyFord/Page/LogOnPage you can use it to keep track of scheduled maintenance needing to be done. At each mileage interval (20k, 25k, etc...) it lists things needing to be done, such as replace fuel filter, rotate tires, etc. I can't remember where I saw that posted originally, but you might want to check it out.
 

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I was looking through some stuff on my computer and found this. I can't remember where I found it, as it looks like I forgot to save the link to it, as well. I think it's from the articles section here at TDS, but I looked and couldn't find it. It is not my work, but here it is anyway, hopefully it will help you:

"Service Checkups for Diesel

• Once per month: Check all fluid levels under the hood. Automatic transmissions and most power steering fluids need to be checked hot with the engine running, check the coolant in the overflow bottle, do not remove the radiator cap. Note any signs of leaks or abnormal conditions--flapping drive belts, bulging hoses. Check tire pressure and look for abnormal wear. If you own a diesel, drain the water seperator, if equiped.
• Every 3000-6000 miles: Lubricate, Oil and Filter. Harsh conditions require more frequent service than highway miles. Even if you put very little mileage on a vehicle, it still should be done twice a year. A running engine produces gases in the crankcase that break down the oil, even while the vehicle sits. I do mine on 5000 mile intervals to coincide with:
• Every 5000 miles: Tire rotation. Front tires usually wear faster than rears because they get some side slip from cornering and have more up and down movement than the rears. It's best to rotate the tires before abnormal wear becomes apparent. When rotating, cross the tires from one axle left to right while rotating the other two front to back. This ensures that the each tire ends up on a different corner of the vehicle than previously, matching the wear patterns on all four. It is acceptable to have a radial tire rotate in a different direction than before providing its tread is not designed to rotate in one direction only. Some high performance tires are directional, as well as some dress wheels. It's easier to remember to rotate your tires if you have it done with another service. If you feel your vehicle needs the oil changed every 3000 miles, then rotate your tires every other time.
• Once a year: Have all the lights, the windshield wipers, battery and cables, charging and starting systems, belts and hoses checked and serviced as needed. Have the radiator and air conditioning condenser fins cleaned out. If you can find a shop with a policy of giving credit for any refrigerant recovered from you vehicle's air conditioning system, have the system recovered, evacuated to remove moisture and recharged. Have the entire vehicle inspected for leaks, and the cooling system and radiator cap pressure tested.
• Every 15000 miles: Complete vehicle inspection including brakes, chassis fluid levels and steering and suspension components for wear. The wheel bearings, if servicable, should be cleaned and repacked and the brake caliper slides cleaned and lubed. Have the wheel alignment checked. Have the cooling system ph checked to prevent leaks due to gasket or hose deterioration from electrolysis. In areas with highly alkiline water have the cooling system chemically treated and flushed. The air and fuel filters should be replaced and if you own a very old car (conventional ignition or carburated), it's time for a tune-up. Diesel vehicles should have a special conditioner added to their cooling system at this time. The additive prevents deterioration of the cylinder walls. The amount depends on cooling system capacity, but the minimum recommended is 4 oz per gallon.
• Every 30,000 miles: This should be the first really major service for your vehicle. The services listed above should be done as well as the following. The coolant should be drained and replaced, possibly the system flushed. The trans fluid should be drained and the filter cleaned or replaced. Even if the engine is running fine, at least have the computer system checked for trouble codes and the engine scope analyzed for potential problems. If your vehicle is five years or older, its probably time for a tune-up including an injector service. If you own a diesel, consider having the injection pump timing and glow plug system checked. Diesels also need to have the conditioner added to their cooling system during the service--4 oz per gallon total cooling system capacity is the minimum, 9.6 oz per gallon maximum.
• At 60,000 miles: It's pretty much the same as a 30,000 mile service, except that cars newer than five years old should have the spark plugs changed and the fuel injectors serviced. Most of these vehicles don't have the ignition components of the past, and the spark plugs are the only parts that wear. If the throttle body is not deposit resistant, it and the idle by-pass ports should be cleaned as well. If the hoses and belts are original, it would be a good idea to replace them at this point. If your car has a timming belt, it may be time to have it replaced.
• At around 100,000 miles you should have the axle lube changed if your vehicle is a rear or four wheel drive, as well as manual transmission fluid drained and replaced.
If the timing belt has not already been replaced, this is about the maximum mileage recommended by most manufacturers, so have it done to prevent being stranded or causing major internal engine damage. If the car has a timing chain, have it inspected for wear or loosness.

The above services can be done by yourself (excluding those requiring special equipment) or by any shop, not necessarily the dealer. Some shops offer free multi-point inspections and services that cover many of the above items. However, it is a good idea to check with the dealer service department as they have access to bulletins and recalls that others may not know about."

EDIT - if anybody recognizes this or knows who wrote it, PLEASE let me know so I can give credit where it's due. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow, that was quick, thanks guys. I did buy the truck used and have downloaded the PDF, thanks.

What I was hoping to find was a guide on how to perform the basic maintenance. I'm no mechanic but am technically inclined. If I had a guide I'm sure I could tackle the regular maintenance myself.
 

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Cory,

The 1st time you try to do the air filter, you will find new words in your vocabulary and new uses for the 1st aid kit in the truck (you do have one right? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif). It has a couple of tabs on the bottom that get pushed into grommets in the base plate. The latches hold pretty good, but they could have given us a 1/2" more & it would have been alot easier. Let go the latches, push the front air guide as far forward as it will go. The back piece has some slots the fit tabs on the back bottom of the filter. Push it down & back. This will give you about a 1/4 “ to jerk the filter out. I recommend gloves for this until you get the hang of it.

Oli, couldn’t be simpler. Using a 36mm socket (Sear’s sells a good 12 point, and there is a special 6 point out there), remove the filter cap on the top of the engine. The filter plugs into it, and will remain attached. Leave it in there for a bit. Reome the fill tube cap. Crawl under the truck & remove the drain plug (18mm). (Through it away & replace it with the fumoto valve you ordered last week). Now if you have one of the “Blitz” brand 15 qt plastic drain pans w/ caps, make sure you open the air vent before starting this process, otherwise you’ll have a bit of a mess that requires liberal application of kitty litter to fix. After this has drained for a bit, remove the filter from the cap, remove the old o-ring, and install the new filter & o-ring. Put them back in & tighten the cap, taking care not to cross thread or pinch the o-ring. After installing your new fumoto valve, refill w/ 13.5 qts of your favorite CI-4(+) rated oil. Run engine, stop, let it set for about 15 mins & check the dip stick. Should need about a ½ qt, and you’ll be right in the middle.

Fuel filters (yes, plural-there are two of em.): Start by putting the truck in a slightly nose down position (a driveway works well or a 4x8 under the rear wheels). Make sure you are down to ½ a tank or less or you might siphon fuel. Using a ½” ratchet wrench extension, remove the cap from the smaller filter on top of the engine, near the oil filter. Let it sit there for a bit. Cut out the bottom of a gal milk jug, or 2 litter bottle, & crawl under the truck at the driver’s side seat, and locate the Horizontal Fuel Conditioning Module (HFCM). Using a 6mm hex key or ball driver, loosen brass drain plug until you can turn it w/ you fingers. Reach over the front drive shaft, and remove the plug. You should drain just a little over a quart of fuel (including what was up in the upper filter.) When it stops dribbling, reinsert the drain plug, careful it has an o-ring on it too (you might want to put just a bit of anti-seize on it too). Using the aforementioned 36mm socket, remove the cap from the HFCM. The primary fuel filter will be attached to it % come out with it. Have some paper towels or a rag handy to sop up the bit of fuel that will be in the filter. Replace the filter & o-ring on the cap w/ the new ones in the kit, reinstall the cap & the do the same on top. Cycle the key a couple of times, letting the fuel pump work fuel up to the injectors, and it should start right up. If it hesitates, coughs or runs rough, you’ve probably got an air leak at one of the caps.

Should be good to go. As I have a manual trans, I’ll let someone else talk about the trans maint.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great play by play, much appreciated. I just got the truck back from it's 50,000 / 60,000 km maintenance and man, not cheap. They want $70.00 just to replace the fuel filters. I told them to hold off and I'll try to tackle it myself.

Tonight's the night, I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Just did my fuel filters today using my ramps under the front wheels & found that NO/VERY LITTLE diesel came out of the HFCM filter housing after draining the water manifold. So, for my truck there is drainage from the tank. Also noticed that the top filter housing didn't drain when I opened the HFCM drain or filter. What's with that???? Spring loaded filter/stopper???
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great help on the subject guys, thanks. Changed up the filters last night without incident, even came out without smelling like diesel.

Quick question though, is there a rule of thumb for tightening the cap down? I mean, a plastic cap, how silly is that?
 

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[ QUOTE ]

The 1st time you try to do the air filter, you will find new words in your vocabulary


[/ QUOTE ]

Better way is to disconnect the clamp at the turbo and pull out the whole housing. Only takes about 10 mins to replace the filter this way with no 1st aid kit needed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif


[ QUOTE ]

Quick question though, is there a rule of thumb for tightening the cap down? I mean, a plastic cap, how silly is that?

[/ QUOTE ]

The rule of thumb is written on the cap. TQ to 25Nm or 18Ft.Lbs. (NM X .73= Ft.Lbs)
 
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