[weitekampt]

I am going to install the springs and sonnax valve tomorrow morning. After reading the directions over, I have a question. The directions say to lubricate the plunger valve before you put in sleeve. Do you just coat it with some ATF?

Since I am dropping the valve body, will I still be able to just follow the draining procedure by pumping out with the engine? I measured everything and made marks in a bucket so I would think that you just run the engine till X amt. of quarts are pumped out. I could see there being a bit of air in the system after dropping the valve body thus giving you false air bubbles in the clear hose. But please correct me if I am wrong.

Oh, I can't find the thread, but how many in/lbs do you tighten the valve body to?? I think 18 rings a bell. Is that right?

Thanks for all your help! I hope I don't REALLY screw something up! Leaving for the Ozarks Sunday.

 

[rlarkin]

Unless you are doing a flush and fill, just pull the drain plug and drain the pan.
Lube the valve with ATF.
I think the valve body is 11 in/lbs, but it has been 4 years since I did mine!

 

[TheHammer69]

[ QUOTE ]
Unless you are doing a flush and fill, just pull the drain plug and drain the pan.
Lube the valve with ATF.
I think the valve body is 11 in/lbs, but it has been 4 years since I did mine!

[/ QUOTE ]

Oh, you are SLIGHTLY off. Torque spec for the valve body is 80-100 INCH/lbs. in case the installer wanted to know, torque for the tranny pan is 11-12 FOOT/lbs (132-144 in/lbs).

Hammer

 

[rlarkin]

YUP, YU RITE!

Like I said, been 4 years, and I am still kinda torn up over the MJ trial! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[TheHammer69]

[ QUOTE ]
YUP, YU RITE!

Like I said, been 4 years, and I am still kinda torn up over the MJ trial! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

Should also add that you should torque in incremental steps until you reach final torque and start with the center most bolt and stagger your way to the outer most bolts. After that is done, it wouldn't hurt to torque check the other tranny valve body and solenoid pack bolts while in there. When I did my BTS valve body this past weekend, I also did this and found 3 bolts that were significantly under torqued and 1 or 2 that were just under spec. Also, just for your knowledge take note of the color of the plastic caps on the solenoid pack. That could come in handy later as to knowing if you have a older or newer version in your tranny. Mine are Orange which is supposed to be the newest (i think) and most likely to not shift flare while many are the older green caps that are supposedly more likely to have a shift flare problem.

Hammer

 

[weitekampt]

Thanks Hammer!

I am going to take plenty of digital pictures while underneath. I can't hardly remember, but the valve body I am going to be taking off is towards the front of the transmission right? Last year I had a buddy of mine do the "underside" work while I installed the cooler. But where are teh other valve bodies or other bolts I am supposed to check. It is a good idea to do it while I have the pan off. I really want this trans to hold up for another 80k miles!

Just reassure me that this sonnax/tricumulator spring mod isn't a big deal. I am kind of nervous about it. Starting early tomorrow so I can have plenty of time. Any small things that I need to look at or do while in there.

Putting in Amsoil torque whatever ATF.

Thanks again for all info!

 

[TheHammer69]

[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Hammer!

I am going to take plenty of digital pictures while underneath. I can't hardly remember, but the valve body I am going to be taking off is towards the front of the transmission right? Last year I had a buddy of mine do the "underside" work while I installed the cooler. But where are teh other valve bodies or other bolts I am supposed to check. It is a good idea to do it while I have the pan off. I really want this trans to hold up for another 80k miles!

Just reassure me that this sonnax/tricumulator spring mod isn't a big deal. I am kind of nervous about it. Starting early tomorrow so I can have plenty of time. Any small things that I need to look at or do while in there.

Putting in Amsoil torque whatever ATF.

Thanks again for all info!

[/ QUOTE ]

yes, the accumulater valve body is the most forward one. Don't remove the little one that is bolted to the center of the big one because you could be hating life.

After you are done installing, just set your torque wrench to 80 inch pounds and torque check all the other identical looking bolts on the other valve bodies. Then use a Torx-30 (could be 40) socket I believe and torque check the bolts on the solenoid pack wich is to the side of the valve bodies that you just checked.

I have never done the Sonnax kit so I can't give any direct opinions to its ease of installation. Most people say it's easy and some people want to punch holes in the wall because they can't get the springs out.

Hammer

 

[weitekampt]

You really could have left that part out about punching holes in the wall because that is usually me. Then after I patch myself up, the dang thing, whatever it is, works just like it is supposed to. So that person with s*#@ luck is me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Thanks for the encouragement.

I think I have a grasp on what is going on. I am getting up extra early and getting a coffee and taking my time with this spring and valve thing. I hear it is worth it too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif

Thanks again Hammer!

Anybody else who has done this mod have any last minute words of encouragement/advise?

 

[JimmyDee]

[ QUOTE ]
Anybody else who has done this mod have any last minute words of encouragement/advise?

[/ QUOTE ]
No big deal. 1 1/2 hrs - 2 hrs if you are slow like me and I had not one problem doing it. First time really into the workings of an auto tranny.
Follow the instructions that come with the springs and valve and it should be no problem for you.
Jim

 

[pabrannan]

[ QUOTE ]
You really could have left that part out about punching holes in the wall because that is usually me. Then after I patch myself up, the dang thing, whatever it is, works just like it is supposed to. So that person with s*#@ luck is me. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Thanks for the encouragement.

I think I have a grasp on what is going on. I am getting up extra early and getting a coffee and taking my time with this spring and valve thing. I hear it is worth it too. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/phoney.gif

Thanks again Hammer!

Anybody else who has done this mod have any last minute words of encouragement/advise?

[/ QUOTE ]

Yup, if the plunger du-hickey won't come out easy use one of the bolts you removed, screw it in, get a pair of pliers and slide the pliers along the bolt like you are doing body work, a few good slide wacks and they should come out. Some don't have this problem, I did, and that was my solution. I had never worked on trannies before and it was rather simple, although rather messy. Oh ya, make sure your tranny is up to operating temp and the tranny fluid is at room temp before you start, don't dally, or you might be in for a big surprise!!

Good luck, you will like the results.....

Paul B

 

[NCHornet]

You could save yourself all that aggrevation and bought the complete valve body by Gregg Evans!!! I am not knocking the Sonnax kit because there are way to many folks out there that love theirs. I just did a little research before making my decision and felt the FTVB was the better way to go. I felt Greg went the extra step in tuning these valve bodies to our trucks. After installing mine 1-2nd was a little stronger than I wanted because I only tow about 10% of the time, it would have been perfect if I towed more, but I told Greg and he tuned one just for what I wanted and had it sent out that day!!! Sonnax will not do this!!! Greg also guarntees his FTVB for life!! Besides Greg letter on Dieselsite where he tells the difference between the FTVB and just a set of springs was everyone who had done both mods always choose the FTVB over the Sonnax. An extra 175.00 is nothing when you are talkning about a new tranny. I hope the Sonnax install goes good for you and you are happy with it. I just thought I would tell folks agout the FTVB in case there were others making this decision. As for me I love the way the FTVB shifts my truck, especially when I am towing my new trailer!!!

 

[stroked_van]

I have replaced tranny's and T/C's before, but had never done any work inside of one until my sonnax/tricumulator install.

It took me about 2 1/2 hours (if I remember right) to do it.
The last 45 minutes or so was done in the dark of night with no flashlight or 110v light available.......was rather interesting to makes sure everything was torqued right (click style torque wrenches work GREAT in the dark). I had just enough light to see the valve body bolts and edge nuts to get them torqued but had to do the pan totally in the dark. Just "fingered" my way around the pan tightening from inside to outside bolts in the crisscross pattern with a final pass in a circle around the pan to check torque.

Been about 5k with no leaks so far.

The above mentioned "bolt trick" to remove a stuck valve works wonderful.

As was stated in a previous post.....follow the directions and you shouldn't have a problem at all.

Happy shifting ahead! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SpringerPop]

Be sure to first put down a tarp, to keep the mess easier to clean up, and to insure that you are working on a clean, dirt-free surface. You can't keep things too clean when working around hydraulic systems.

You also might find a large paper-clip, with a very small hook bent into an end, will be a valuable tool for removing the retainer clips.

Pop