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Sputtering 6.0L

18132 Views 32 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  see error
First off I would like to say hello to everyone I just signed up I have been looking on here for 2 days and I seem to be going in circles with the issue i am having. My truck is a 2004 6.0l it has 127k on it and i bought it on tuesday. On wednesday I was sitting at a traffic light and it started skipping when i hit the gas it seems to run fine then when it is in overdrive it shudders bad until i push the gas and it downshifts it also stops when i put in tow/haul mode. The problem seems to be when below 1800 rps. Now the history the po told me is he replaced the injectors, ficm, egr cooler delete. I removed the egr and cleaned it it was really gummed up. I started it with egr unplugged it runs the same so i plugged it back in. I unplugged the ICP and it still ran the same. Any ideas I know there are problems with 6.0l but i thought i would get more than 1 day out of it. Thanks Chris
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With crappy batteries it's possible the FICM was damaged. Need to check it.
Having oil in the coolant and "clean" oil is entirely possible.

Are you sure it's oil? Is it floating or look like sand in the bottom of the reservoir? Maybe post a pic? Not trying to insult your intelligence but just need to make sure. Because if it is, you have a ruptured oil cooler. And that's a big deal. Do NOT drive the truck.

Are there any signs of coolant spewing out of the degas bottle? Look for a white crusty substance on the underside of the hood or on/around the degas bottle.
Probably is oil.

I went back and re-read your original post. You say it has an EGR delete? I'm just trying to put together the picture here. IF the PO did a delete, he could have very well been doing it because of a failed oil cooler. If that's the case, then you might just have residual oil in the system from a previous failure.

You might want to get a hold of the PO and get some details on why he did the delete? Was it because of an EGR cooler failure? Oil cooler failure? Both?

And you really need to get some gauges on that thing. If you want to get up and running pretty quick and pretty cheap, check out the ScanGauge2. $159. It's a code reader and electronic gauge that monitors just about anything you need.
I kind of doubt it. But you never know. If you can get the version, post it up. Somebody will be able to comment on the version.

IMO, you're at the point where you need to start doing some diagnostics.

  • Pull codes
  • Check fuel pressure
  • Change oil and fuel filters. Motorcraft, Raycor, Ford, or Fram only
  • EOT vs ECT deltaT
  • Check IPR % and ICP volts
  • Pull, inspect, and clean MAF, MAP, and EP sensors
  • etc.....

Not sure if your scanner will pull all these values or the codes (you don't have to have a CEL on to have a code). You need something that speaks Ford CAN. The ScanGauge2 and, I believe, the Edge Insight will read these values.

Check the no-start sticky at the top of this forum. I know you don't have a no-start but it's still a good diagnosis to run through.

And you really need to look into the oil in the degas bottle issue. Your first priority should be determining if that's residue from a previous oil cooler failure or if you're actually dealing with a failure right now. Either way, you've got work to do.
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AHHHHHHH! Napa! Got to go.

You might have to get a new Ford cap for the Ford, Motorcraft, Raycor, or Fram filter (all identical BTW, shop price). I've never used or seen a NAPA but have heard they have their own cap to make their filter work.

Ford has the patent on the cartridge filter. Other people like Napa and Wix got around this by slightly changing the cartridge design which necessitated a change in the cap.

Long story short, the NAPA cap probably won't fit the Ford filter.

Problem is, though, there are all kinds of places for oil to hang out. The Ford procedure calls for Simple Green to be run through the system with water to remove all the oil.
Why everything on this truck so difficult 3 fuel pressure testers and none fit. Everything is expensive you might think with all the same failures the parts price would go down. Is there a wat to test the ICP voltage or ohm or just a test procedure. if i unplug tie ICP does it need to run for a bit for the computer to go into default?
It's an M12x1.5 fitting. Look for a M12x1.5 to 1/8"NPT Female transition fitting.

You can use a volt meter to read ICP. Look in the no-start sticky at the top of this forum. The directions are in there.

Not sure if there's any sort of delay in the PCM when going to the default pressures. I bet it's pretty quick though.
Those actually don't look that bad. Nothing jumps out as a smoking gun.

Any codes??
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