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You know just a thoguht 444-4D, If you woulda just described to everyone right off the bad how it was built we wouldn't have had this long discussion, Instead of just saying, 'You're wrong, I'm right, I can't believe your that dumb'(didn't say that but that's pretty much what you meant)
 

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You know just a thoguht 444-4D, If you woulda just described to everyone right off the bad how it was built we wouldn't have had this long discussion, Instead of just saying, 'You're wrong, I'm right, I can't believe your that dumb'(didn't say that but that's pretty much what you meant)
You honestly think that would have made a difference? I can assure you that those who knew better about how it was built would have still known better and would have still chimed in.

So here are some more thoughts.

If people who didn't know anything about how it was built hadn't pretended they did, we wouldn't have had this long discussion.

If you had understood how it was built, after you looked at it, you wouldn't have told me I was wrong twice and I wouldn't have had to disagree with you and we wouldn't have had this long discussion.

If you would have replaced the bearing, like my first post didn't say but pretty much meant your truck would be fixed and we wouldn't have had this long discussion.

As someone else once suggested, you always have the option to put me on ignore.
 

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As someone else once suggested, you always have the option to put me on ignore.
Except you miss out on his advice, and he's ALMOST always right... :lol:
 

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I'm no mechanic so I can't speak for compressor issues, I can only tell you what happened to me. I had a squeak coming from what i thought was the alternator, well replaced it and still there. Idler pulley replaced and still squeaking. Finally i found that the belt was too long and was rubbing on the water pump pulley. Replaced the belt and hasn't squeaked since. Belts sure are cheaper than a/c compressors, rebuilt or replaced. Just a thought hope it works out well for you.
 

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Except you miss out on his advice, and he's ALMOST always right... :lol:
LOL.

4444..

Any advice for my problem with A/C..

My truck.. PSD goes stale after cruising.. If I make the truck down shift, it goes back to cold air for a few minutes.. I can use the over drive to make it go cold.. I think it has to do with an RPM change that causes it to go cold..

Any ideas?? I'm kinda stumped....
 

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LOL.

4444..

Any advice for my problem with A/C..

My truck.. PSD goes stale after cruising.. If I make the truck down shift, it goes back to cold air for a few minutes.. I can use the over drive to make it go cold.. I think it has to do with an RPM change that causes it to go cold..

Any ideas?? I'm kinda stumped....
Our Okie A/C expert will be online in a while I'm sure - but while you wait - this really sounds like the classic air gap situation. Next time your a/c feels warm - check to see if your compressor is really turning. If not - check the air gap and if it is greater than 0.030 - pull a spacer out and try again.
 

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I'm talking out of my ass here, and shooting from the hip.. But I like to have an idea of what the problem is before I just start looking at it with a Blank look.. (Which seam to do quite often!)

I haven't heard that Air gap term before, then again I've never worked on A/C before either..

But By air gap and how you use your words, I assume are you refering to something with the Clutches and it's not engaging the clutches?.. Then By Changing the RPM's it changes the voltage enough to engage..

Or are you talking about some kind of Liquid bubble in the fluid? err I mean.. .. If there is Fluid.. :)

I'm normally pretty mechanically inclined.. Just not so much on the A/C, Never taken one apart yet or had to work on one before...


I'll look up the shop manual on it tonight and see if they Have a section on the A/C and air gap.

Huh.. Pulling a spacer.. Now that sounds pretty affordable... :)

Thank you.
Buddy
 

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They say a picture is worth a thousand words. Try this one:

View attachment airgap.pdf

The concept is that the electromagnet may not have the cajones (pronounced ca-hon-nes for you non Spanish speakers) to maintain the clutch engaged when the gap gets too great.
 

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Clear as mud....

Seriously.. Thank you! Easier to check than I thought, I'm finding these forums better than the shop manual sometimes..

Using my redneck feeler gauge.. (a .050 cd) I can tell I'm way over .030..

Thank you.
Buddy
 

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Using my redneck feeler gauge.. (a .050 cd) I can tell I'm way over .030..

Thank you.
Buddy
That's the new and improved redneck feeler gauge. Us "older rednecks" fold over a 3x5 index card to get 0.025 (works for lawnmower spark plugs and points) and single thickness 0.0125 (to set the coil on the mower)
 

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I had my back up gauge.. 8 sticky notepad pages. 0.030. 4 sticky notepads 0.15... Had to call dad and we were rigging up a plan of what we both had that he could measure for me.. It's at .022 I ran down and bought a gauge and tried to rent a puller, because according to the book I thought I would need a puller to hold the wheel while I removed the bolt...



Long story short (So the next guy knows not to run down to the parts store for a special tool, I hate it when the person asking the question never comes back and gives the answer!) If only I would have asked this question about a year ago, instead of assuming it was something expensive!

The clutch wouldn't engage with the engine not running, I (incorrectly) assumed it was the computer that wasn't telling it to engage until the engine was running.. .. But after I gave it a little push and it locked up so I could remove the bolt.. removed the washer/Spacer and re-installed..

measures between the tolerance now. and it engages with the engine not running.. (so there was some improvement)


:) Thank you very much.. I will be thinking about you this weekend as I'm on a Long Road trip with consistant cold air!!
 

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Bringing back an ol post

So what is the solution to the Original question? Can I just buy a new pulley with new bearing?
 

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This thread was about the gap being too wide, but to answer your question, if the clutch assembly is available for your A/C compressor it will come with a new bearing.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Bring up an old issue here, but I just looked at RT's AC clutch pic that he posted, and I believe that some draftsman was just drawing pretty pictures instead of how it actually works.

Think about it. If the Clutch is fixed to the AC housing as the pic indicates and the pulley rotates on a bearing when the clutch is engaged, how the heck does the pulley engage the shaft when there's a bearing between it and the shaft?

The only way it can work is if the pulley rotates freely on the housing (on a bearing), and the clutch engages it's rotating part (that's attached to the shaft) with the pulley.
 

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The clutch hub is fastened solid to the compressor shaft. A bearing is pressed onto the clutch hub. The pulley is pressed onto the outside of the bearing. When the clutch is disengaged the pulley spins on the bearing. When the clutch is engaged the hub and pulley are locked together.
 

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The clutch hub is fastened solid to the compressor shaft. A bearing is pressed onto the clutch hub. The pulley is pressed onto the outside of the bearing. When the clutch is disengaged the pulley spins on the bearing. When the clutch is engaged the hub and pulley are locked together.
I've replaced the AC clutch bearing on a GM, so I understand how they go together. I'm just saying that cutaway drawing that RT posted is WRONG, and you were right in the discussion earlier in the thread.

So do I just need to replace the clutch assembly? this squeal is driving me crazy
You can either do that or replace the pulley bearing. On the GM I fixed, the bearing was $40 vs about $100+ for the clutch (which wasn't readily available).j The pulley was part of the clutch assembly and probaly is on your truck (mine doesnt' have AC, so I can't go look at it).
 

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The drawing is 100% accurate for the 57 Chevy compressor. I've rebuilt it.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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I've replaced the AC clutch bearing on a GM, so I understand how they go together. I'm just saying that cutaway drawing that RT posted is WRONG, and you were right in the discussion earlier in the thread.
I know I was right but they aren't all built like the GM ones you are talking about or the ones on a SD. Some A/C clutch assemblies, many of them on Fords, only attach to the compressor shaft.
 
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