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The drawing is 100% accurate for the 57 Chevy compressor. I've rebuilt it.
OK, but what causes the pulley to turn the shaft if there's a bearing there? That's what I was wondering. I realize there are differences between designs. but SOMETHING has to connect the shaft to the pulley. :shrug03:

Ok I went back and studied the picture. One clutch plate is keyed to the shaft and rotates with it. When the coil energizes it pulls the clutch plate fixed to the shaft and the one on the pulley together and stops the relative rotation of the pulley bearing.

On the GM compressor, the pulley bearing is pressed over the case and the clutch plate is keyed to the shaft. So on that design, the pulley is always turning the bearing relative to the fixed compressor housing.

I'll shut up now.
 

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Which is more likely to fail, the clutch or the compressor?
Right now the clutch is not even turning for my system.
If the clutch is more likely to fail, is there a replacement kit for the clutch and if so what would be the part number or would be just be better to replace the whole unit?
As a side note, how would one flush the oil from the compressor system and replace with new?
 

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I would say they are about equally prone to failure - I've replaced tons of compressors that had good clutches and vice versa. The units with the clutches are usually not much more - and often cheaper - than units without clutches. You can't flush a parallel flow condenser. Evaporators are hard to flush completely without a flush machine. Unless the system has been open, you shouldn't need to flush the oil. If you've had a catastrophic failure which shed debris through the system, you need to replace anything you can't flush. No matter what you do, a new orifice tube and new accumulator dryer is a must.
 

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How to tell if there has been a catastrophic failure?

Is there a simple way of telling if the clutch has gone bad, other than never seeing it move?

Also should one be able to move freely the clutch by hand? turn it by hand with real ease?
 

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That worked a lot better with R12/R22 and R11 flushes. R134a is such a poor solvent with PAG or PEG that you might not get it all out. It wouldn't do anything to mineral oil. Still, its a lot better suggestion than mine. I miss real refrigerants...
 

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If you have a refrigerant recovery machine, you can probably circulate refrigerant thru the A/C system to remove the oil.
Not really an answer... I know that we can flush the trans, the coolant but what about the oil for the a/c or is that a shop only thing?

How does one test the 2 halves of the A/C system? there is the clutch and the comp.... how does one test then to find out which?
 

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You would have to have the equipment - again, its not necessary unless you have had a catastrophic failure or left the system open and the oil is moisture contaminated.

If the clutch won't engage and the pressure is ok - its probably the clutch. Verify there is voltage at the terminal. If the clutch engages and the compressor sounds like its ripping itself apart, is locked up so the belt freezes, or has pressure issues that can't be blamed on other components - think compressor.
 

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Not really an answer... I know that we can flush the trans, the coolant but what about the oil for the a/c or is that a shop only thing?
Actually it is an answer. That's one of the things a recovery machine is designed to do. If you don't have a recovery machine, you can use flushing solvent and air pressure but that doesn't work as well as refrigerant.
 

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Autocorrect at work...
 

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You would have to have the equipment - again, its not necessary unless you have had a catastrophic failure or left the system open and the oil is moisture contaminated.

If the clutch won't engage and the pressure is ok - its probably the clutch. Verify there is voltage at the terminal. If the clutch engages and the compressor sounds like its ripping itself apart, is locked up so the belt freezes, or has pressure issues that can't be blamed on other components - think compressor.
So with the pressure up in the system and elect. to the compressor with no clutch then most likely the clutch would be in need of replacement.

Should the clutch be able to be turned by hand either way?


As for the flushing that part sounds more like a shop rather than driveway.
While it can be done in the driveway it is something better left for the shop that has the tools for it.
 

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If you have electricity to the clutch and it isn't engaging - then the clutch is at fault. Make sure and check the air gap, but if that's ok, then the clutch is bad. You can swap that in your driveway no problem. You do not have to discharge the system to do this. You will need to rent a tool from Autozone - View attachment acclutch.pdf

If you decide to replace your compressor - that to can be done in the driveway, but you will need to have a shop recover your Freon, and then you will need to pull a vacuum on the system before recharging.
 

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I just checked the weather in Alaska -highs in the 70°s??? What do you need an a/c for? That's heater weather...
 

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I just checked the weather in Alaska -highs in the 70°s??? What do you need an a/c for? That's heater weather...
Last Tuesday it was a record high for Anchorage....81F, the old record was like 80 for that day in 1926!
And I thought that there was global warming...

Having it is more for days that I have the dogs with me in the van and it is getting over 100 in the van...
 

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Glad I decided to come look here....
My AC has been intermittently working for quite a while. I've worked on many AC systems, replaced every part, have the gauges/vacuum pump etc etc...
Basically I figured my system was getting old and I probably had a High side restriction or something, but now it has quit completely and this is Texas, so I got to looking to see what it was going to take to fix it!
Finally tracked down to everything looks good, and have 12v at the compressor, but nothing I do will make the compressor kick in! It did (for about 1/2 a second) kick in ONCE when I was plugging the compressor back in, so........
Now I'm off to go check my gap and pull a spacer before I go off spending money I don't have on a compressor! (Wish I woulda looked into this a year ago when I still had a full shop instead of just the gravel driveway I have now!)
Will post back my results!

BTW (in case my sig is missing or wrong as I haven't posted on here in a very long time....) 2000 F-350 Lariat LE 4x4 apx 290k mi.
 

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WooHoo! 15 min FREE fix!

Wooo Hoooo!!!! Here's to 15 min repairs that don't cost a dime!!!!!!!
A/C is back to working like a champ, checked my pressures and all is good!

One poster mentioned about turning the key 'on' (engine OFF) with AC 'on' and tap the clutch so that it engages and you can loosen the bolt. Turn everything back off again, gently pry behind the clutch and it will slide off.
there only looked to be one shim (washer) in there and I removed it. The clutch looks to have some wear (probably from a year or more of too much gap and slipping!) but put it back together without the shim and it works fine and still has gap to turn freely when off (not very often here in Texas...)
I did remove the top bolt from the degas bottle to afford me a tiny bit more room to work. All in all, start to finish including checking my pressure: about 15 min!

Now to see how long I can keep driving my truck before she figures out the AC is working again and steals it from me!

Thanks for the tips and tricks! See yall next time on the next issue!
 

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This has something that has been getting progressively worse over the last 4-5 months. Originally, I thought it was one of the idler bearings going out. Earlier this week I finally got around to looking at it. It turns out It's actually my a/c compressor that is squeaking. It doesn't seem to matter if the a/c clutch is engaged or not, it squeaks the same either way. Gets progessively worse as the rpm's go up. I tried squirting some multi-purpose lube, it got better for a little bit, but now it seems to actually have gotten a little worse. I'm assuming there is bearing or something in there going out. Can it be repaired or do i need to replace the whole thing?
I have a 02 f350. When a/c is on everything sounds good and normal. But when I turn a/c off every one in a while sounds like a leaf is stuck in clutch. When I looked at it clutch would rotate every once in a while making the noise
 

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Maybe your gap is too small or the plate is warped.


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