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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi fellas, Let me first start off with what happened and the conditions I was in. I was traveling home from Mammoth to San Diego last weekend and I was pulling my Fifth wheel that weighs about 12k. It was about 106 degrees when my truck shut off about 40 miles outside of Victorville. I was traveling up a short, but semi steep grade, when I had to get off the throttle because of a slowing traffic. When I let up off throttle the truck instantly stalled. I pulled over to side of road, tried to restart, noticed my RPM gauge on dash was not showing anything. Right...my Wife and dog looked concerned at me.. I pulled my spare CPS out of the glove box, grabbed a wrench, a pad to lay on, and some gloves. 15 min later and some minor burns, I had the CPS in jumped in the truck and it fired right up. Feeling like a hero, I explained to my wife that it was a common failure, and that is why I carried a spare. So we travel about 20 miles down the road and again I had to let up off the gas for some reason, Bam, the truck dies again. I tried turning it over and same RPM issue on dash, but my Scangauge was showing RPM. I looked under the hood, checked some wires, tried to turn it over some more. Scangauge was telling me that the ICP was only about 140 when turning over ( I think it has to be at least 450 to start) so I unplugged it and the truck started right up, cool I thought, my ICP is bad (even though I had just purchased a brand new one from Ford just 2 months ago) I'll just limp into Victorville and put the old one back in, or buy a new one at the dealership. I plugged the ICP back in and drove off. 5miles later the truck dies again, with all the same gauge issues. I jump out unplug the ICP again, and nothing.. no start. Now I'm starting to get worried/pissed. Wife/dog is concerned, hot as hell, and I'm running out of ideas. I let the truck sit while I checked IPR tin nut and wiring, wiggled the UVCH wires. 10- 15min later the truck starts up, longer story shorter, I must have stalled 3-4 more times before getting to the trailer park where we were staying the night. Every time I had to let it sit for a while before starting and the distance I traveled between stalls got shorter and shorter. Went to bed and got up early, truck fires right up and I drive it 5 miles to the dealership. I figured I had a bad CPS and purchased a new one, and was about to but a new IPR until I found that they wanted $280 for a new one. My research the previous night led me in the direction of the IPR and not the ICP, but I was not sure. I found a service rep and he was nice enough to run the codes on the truck(Scangauge showed nothing) 1280 code comes up. He calls his diesel guy and we chat for a few minutes. He tells me to change the ICP harness (I had not previously, because it looked OK to me) He said if that did not fix the problem, then it was the IPR. So...$95 bucks later I walk out with a new harness plus the $60 for the CPS( grey one I'll probably take back) install the harness, BAM...drive the whole way home with no problems. I know I was a bit long winded with my story, but my question to you is this. Do you think that was the entire problem? Do you think I should replace the IPR. I think I will replace the UVCH, just for good measure. I don't want anymore problems with the truck when traveling, and I tow a lot with this truck. What do you guys think? See my sig line for truck info. Thanks for your input
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Almost 200 views and no response. Anyone.....RT, Klhanson, Bueler..:smile2:
 

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Too long a post. Lol
To me sounds like a hpo problem.

Do the ipr. I've seen the Solenoid fail and cause that exact problem.
I would almost put money on it.
You could even just swap the Solenoid with the new one.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Too long a post. Lol
To me sounds like a hpo problem.

Do the ipr. I've seen the Solenoid fail and cause that exact problem.
I would almost put money on it.
You could even just swap the Solenoid with the new one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk


Do you think I should repace the whole IPR or just the solenoid, How about rebuilding and doing the orings?
 

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Almost 200 views and no response. Anyone.....RT, Klhanson, Bueler..:smile2:
Been busy. :frown2:

I think the diesel tech nailed it. Your ICP wires were probably messed up to the point that you were getting an invalid signal from it. Potentially shorted between wires.
So when you backed off on the go-pedal, the PCM thought the pressure was way too high and instructed the IPR to cut it back, when the pressure was actually way to low to support injection. When that happens, the engine dies.
I don't believe you can buy just an IPR solenoid coil (unfortunately). If the coil gets heat sensitive and cuts out, your only route is to buy the whole IPR.
I'd say if it still runs OK after the ICP pigtail replacement, just let it go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Been busy. :frown2:

I think the diesel tech nailed it. Your ICP wires were probably messed up to the point that you were getting an invalid signal from it. Potentially shorted between wires.
So when you backed off on the go-pedal, the PCM thought the pressure was way too high and instructed the IPR to cut it back, when the pressure was actually way to low to support injection. When that happens, the engine dies.
I don't believe you can buy just an IPR solenoid coil (unfortunately). If the coil gets heat sensitive and cuts out, your only route is to buy the whole IPR.
I'd say if it still runs OK after the ICP pigtail replacement, just let it go.


Been searching the net for a solenoid and I belive you are right, you have to buy the whole IPR. The problem seemed to have stopped, but I don't want to be stuck again, so I will probably replace the IPR for good measure. Do I have to get the OEM one or is there a good aftermarket?
 

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Correct, have to buy the whole thing.
I would try the just the Solenoid first, as if it doesn't fix it, you should be able to return it.
Oem/Alliant?
I think Alliant is the maker for the OEM. Could be wrong.

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm confused, what solenoid are you speaking of? I thought the IPR was the valve and solenoid together. I cant just buy the solenoid separate, so....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I get what you mean, buy the whole thing, but just switch the solenoid from new to old, right?
 

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Correct.
It's very rare for the inner part (the valve) to fail.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update:


Well it happened again. I was towing the trailer again this weekend and the truck stalled on me again after I crested a hill and had to back off the go pedal. Pulled over to the side and poured a little ice water on the IPR (thanks RT for that trick), truck fired right up and I continued on my way. I should have replaced that IPR solenoid before the trip, but I was hoping...:brickwall:New IPR ordered from amazon on the way (motocraft $160 shipped) and new pigtail just to be sure($40 shipped). Still trying to decide if I'm going to replace the whole IPR or just the solenoid. I know there is O-rings on the IPR, so don't you think I should just go ahead and do the whole thing considering the mileage on the truck? What would you do? How hard is it to remove to old one? Do I really need a special socket? Thanks for the input.
 

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If you aren't experiencing any problems other than then heat related failure of the solenoid, I'd be inclined to just swap the solenoid out and keep the rest of the new IPR in the box as a spare just in case.

Getting the IPR out takes a deep socket (don't remember the size right now, but IIRC it's a standard not metric size), and some are too short to work correctly. The one I have fits on the IPR and I'm able to stick the ratchet in just enough to grab. Some are longer and work just fine. You'll get oil in the valley, so stuff some rags underneath to soak it up before loosening. Not a terrible job, but not the easiest either.
 

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I use a wrench on the ipr.
But yeah, I would just swap the Solenoid for now.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I went ahead and replaced the whole IPR. Couldn't find my 1-1/8 deep socket anywhere so I ended up just using a wrench. It was not the easiest removal but I was able to get it eventually. Drove the trailer about 100 miles up and down a few big hills in warm weather and had no issues. Plan on finishing up the job with replacing the IPR pigtail this weekend just to be sure. Thanks for all the help everyone. Problem seems to be fixed!:grin2:
 
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