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Stalls after warm up

12K views 37 replies 6 participants last post by  thegreenmachine 
#1 ·
Need some help. with truck plugged in and temp outside is 30 or so I start truck its smokes for 30 seconds to a minute then smooths out with no smoke truck runs normal however after complete warm up it just dies. cycle the key it fires right up then dies 120 seconds later. cycle the key it fires right up runs 120 seconds then it dies. it will do this all the way home.
 
#2 ·
120 seconds is a curious number as that's the maximum time the glow plugs will stay on. As the engine warms up, you would expect that time to decrease. I can't imagine the truck would only run if the glow plugs were hot. That would indicate such low compression that you aren't achieving combustion temperature without their help. I think you are going to need to put a scanner on it and watch what happens as it stalls.
 
#5 ·
@RT and @Bill1013 rt those were my thoughts like maybe some kind of short so I replaced the GP relay that did not fix it. and bill I just did major repairs injector cups injectors hpop reseal turbo and valve covers valve cover harness, so while I was in there I did have to move the sensor I did scrape the crap out with a tooth pick being careful not to bottom it out into the sensor I had done this once before the same way I also sprayed some brake fluid cleaner in it just a touch not a blast now the tube I rammed a pipe cleaner down it as far as I could. maybe I pushed the crap down and clogged the tube that just popped into my head ill find it I just need suggestions from ya so anything at all that might cause this please list. also one more thing now that I think about it. my truck isn't doing the whole idle up till warmed up thing man it used to really get into that making all kinds of noise but after these repairs not so much kinda idles up a little don't really here the exhaust change like it used to maybe I need to check that exhaust back pressure unit on the turbo pedestal. I had better get to finishing my coolant anything you think please feel free also a little history ICP, IPR are both a year old however the pigtails were not changed at the time of sensors on the ICP the little white cap inside the clip isn't there its gone I noticed that yesterday but I cant do much with this until I get coolant and thermos in. thanks for you help. I'm pretty sure it going to be electrical or sensor.
 
#3 ·
Have you ever checked the EBPS and cleaned the tube. Is your EBPV free, not stuck closed. My 99 will rev up a little when it's real cold. That farting noise you hear is relevant to those.
 
#8 ·
so coolant is done, and of course it stalled upon warm up. so I took apart the sensor on front of engine blew air threw tube, same thing stalled. I didn't get to the disconnecting the GP wires because I disconnected the ICP and it did not stall kept running. also I noticed yesterday at a rev, when i let off the rpm drops well below the nrom ant then slowly comes back up to normal how ever with ICP unplugged it doesn't stall and letting off a rev it does not drop down below normal rpm pretty much normal. so the ipr and icp were replaced a year or so ago they are oreilly brand I did not replace pigtails on either plug because they were order only. so I need to test the ICP if possible is there an ohms test or how do I test it.
 
#7 ·
@greenskeeper never having this problem before whats the fix to that, ( 15 degree pump is what on the truck I think) my truck had AD injectors in it they actually worked I just replaced them because I was in there doing the cups, the hpop got resealed and turbo was replaced. @Marylanddieselnick ill try that as well as Marylanddieselnick knows ive ben doing repairs on this truck for 2 months its cost about 4000.00 on truck and chewed up my little nest egg the wify told me I was cut off I haven't worked in 2 months so what ever it is needs to be a cheap fix ill clear codes then finish coolant today then pull new ones see what I get but I cant really afford much more for the money ive spent not working and repairs I could have put 8000.00 down on new or used truck but I love this truck we ben threw a lot. I would just like to run it for another year then retire. and to marylanddieselnick that damed noise is still there. in the front end. thanks for recommendation rt
 
#10 · (Edited)
#14 ·
The only damage is to your miles per gallon.
 
#15 ·
Well I'm back and after resetting the codes and waiting for it to warm up it stalled again. but I cant find any diagrams for the icp sensor volts and ohms type thing. I know the sensors should have a 5 volt wire, ground wire and then signal wire but I don't know the ohms of said wires if some one could help me out with that that would be great I googled it found it for 97 idi but not sure if its going to be the same. the good news is I bought both ICP and IPR in April this year they have a one year warrenty so I shouldn't have to buy it. However I shouldn't be replacing it this soon. I just pulled codes I have code p1280 and p0603 can anyone give me a little insight to the later code the 603.
 
#24 ·
Here is some Data for ya tell me what ya think please. @Idle

Injection Pressure Duty 29.2%

Injection pressure volts .88-.93 v

Intake air volts 3.09 v

Manifold absolute pressure volts 3.09

Manifold absolute pressure 14.07 psi

Manifold gauge pressure 2376.18

Mass fuel 15.95mg

Net Engine torque 6.3NM

Volume fuel desired 6.4mm3

Turbo waste gate .1%

Turbine shaft speed 180-194 rpm

Torque Converter Absolute Slip 493-501

Throttle Position low idle volts .74 v

PCM case ground 0.0 volts


these were taken at idle about 2 minutes after I started the truck, 60 degrees outside. Please let me know what you think. Running a lot better than the yesterday, however still has a little hiccup after I rev up let off completely idle will jump. I have not driven it yet. Wanted to get some numbers posted for ya all. also waiting for son to get home from school. ill let ya know how that goes. My truck did not die After Warmup one thing concerns me the Manifold Gauge Pressure after while of idle jumps between 2376.18 and .04 can some one explain or is something wrong ill double check that when I test drive. one more thing to mention while at idle I was scrolling threw readings and there is a Misfire Delta reading 1 threw 8, 1 and 2 were 0 percent but 3 was 1.3% 4 was 2.7% 5 was 2.1 % 6 was 0% 7 was .7 and 8 was 0%. can someone tell me what Misfire Delta is ? However when I would rev all would 0 out I hope that is good.






 
#21 ·
I may have mis quoted the vehicle speed sensor code ill pull again. cant believe it is 50 and 60 in December in Kansas just 60 miles south of Kansas city Kansas
 
#25 ·
I should have taken a picture of what I'm talking about. Its as if there are 2 of them or supposed to be 2 they are located an inch or 2 inside the hpop were the ipr screws in. its not the balls were if you loose them the truck wont start I was very carful with those. these look like they might be some kind of stop or maybe a hold in place type of ball maybe to keep the ipr centered or to keep you from screwing it in to far. I'm trying to explain it best as I can its not the steel balls held in by none serviceable plug. ill see if I can find a picture some where. I just posted some data for ya to look at
 
#26 ·
Hi ok,


I want you to set up scanner to read when off but key on:

Engine exhaust backpressure ( in psi.)
Manifold intake air pressure ( in psi.)
Engine oil temp (in degrees)
Intake air temp ( in degrees)


Then I want you to check with the engine running at idle:
Injection pressure ( in psi.)
Injection pressure duty cycle (in psi.)


Then get the engine up to normal temps.
In Park
Take it up to 3200 rpm and hold dead steady. Does the tach needle hunt around? Or hold steady?
At 3200 after two minutes, what is injection pressure and duty cycle.


Go record all this on paper and post it here and then we will go from there.
 
#29 ·
No, that's not the one.

The non serviceable plug has a post on it. The ball is held in place by going across the front of it. So the ball will be towards the front engine side of that pin.

I some how lost my Save Image button on my iPad. Also I don't know how to do links.

Googs can you get that image and post it here from Diesel Orings.com.

I'm also all discombobulated as I cannot find my gingerbread man cookie cutter. The icicle lights I hung on the house are all screwed up. One string blinks hard, next one is solid, next one random blinks and the next two strings are LED with that weird white light that does not match regular clear bulbs. My house looks like the outside of a strip bar down in Baltimore on a July night.
 
#31 ·
#34 ·
I did not open the pressure regulator at all. I did not do that seal in the back the kit I ordered didn't come with it. I was wondering why it didn't come with it I even came all the way home and looked it up watched a guy tear his apart on you tube, but I didn't. Yes the pump is in. I'm worried about revving that truck up to 3200 rpm for 2 minutes I never have done that and it is a potential trade in for me at this point.
 
#35 ·
Diesels will run at 3200 24 hrs a day for weeks. It is a test in the factory manual but if you don't want to do it, don't. I've been spinning diesels up to and holding at 3200 since the early 80s and have instructed countless numbers to do so since.


You are nuts if you get rid of a 7.3. There will never be another diesel in a pick up as good. We just have to get this one squared away and THEN some upgrades.
 
#38 ·
Yes I did torque it if memory serves it was 96 tons hahaha ftlbs I believe. ok Nick here are some numbers for ya for some reason my setup wouldn't or doesn't have an oil temp EBP read out. and I forgot to get the KOEO numbers before I started truck from cold start not sure if that matters but I wanted to be upfront about that. The truck had ran about 2 minutes prior to me getting the KOEO readings from cold not plugged in start mid 30's last night and 55 so far today. if it would help speed this up we could talk on phone whatever you prefer. not sure how to get it 2 ya without all the women calling me. Ha ha




Ok

KOEO

There was no EBP readout unless labeled something else.

Manifold Intake air pressure was 14.18

Engine oil temp no readout unless labeled something else I looked up and down the available list I couldn't find anything.

Intake air temp 3.24v


@idle after driving 30 miles

Injection pressure 608.0

Duty cycle 29.2%


@3200 rpm for 2 minutes

Injection pressure 1400. psi

Duty Cycle 33.9%
_______________________________________________________

@ 3200 rpm the needle was very steady, no smoke at all


test done



now my truck hasn't ran that well ever or at least long enough I don't remember I think its very quite.
 
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