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Been having a continuous problem with starters. Lost track really, but I think up to about 6 starters in 10 years owning this truck. 4 Since the big build. Most were oem, then the last one I bucked up and got a real denso. The big daddy that barely fit. Thought all my problems were solved. But no. IT has developed the same as most the others. The first ever replacement was because it wore out, didn't spin fast enough. Since then its been what I figure is the starter solenoid packing in. WHy? I can't figure out. Over the years, and researching, experts on this sight point to the white block on the column that the key tumble engages, and the tumbler itself. I don't doubt this since the keys themselves cant even be remade because there too worn. But my doubt is because, on all the starters, when the starter fails, the solenoid still makes a click sound. So if it were the key system, why is the signal still making the solenoid click, and since it is, why does the starter not go? Some times its one key cycle to get it to go, some times its 10 cycles or more, every time the solenoid clicks on the starter? If its the solenoids on 5 starters including the year old denso, then why do they keep failing, it has to be something with the truck in order to kill 5 solenoids on the starters? Or what, why? Cant figure this out. Have warranty, but feel crappy taking starters back that I'm killing some how.
 

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I think you have a voltage drop issue and it is causing your early starter failures. What happens is the positive cable (negative as well) corrode inside the plastic coating on the cable. This causes high resistance and voltage drop at the starter. You may have 12.7 volts at the battery but only 11 volts or less at the starter. It may still work but it will shorten starter/solenoid life big time. I would replace both cables with new OEM cables or have high quality ones made. The Jippy Joe ones at the parts stores won't cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Never thought of that. Worth a try.
 

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Should be able to check voltage at the starter pretty easily.
 

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Sometimes when I turn the key, I have to hold the key in "start" position for a couple seconds before the starter turns.

Would this also be caused by a voltage drop or an issue with the ignition switch?
 

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Sometimes when I turn the key, I have to hold the key in "start" position for a couple seconds before the starter turns.

Would this also be caused by a voltage drop or an issue with the ignition switch?
I don’t think you could rule out either of those two possibilities yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Problem with testing the voltage is I would have to be under there ready when it happens. Never know when it happens. It just does. Then you don't know it its going to do it again, or start. Some times it clicks once then starts next try, some times it ten tries. Never know. I have doubt on the key system. It just sends a signal, and its clear the signal gets there. Guess I could wire a voltage gauge right on the starter and tape it to the dash, and stare at it every time I start it until it happens and shows me something. Lol. Trying to find some beefy wire to make new cables and starter cables. Let ya know how that goes.
 

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Thanks again for the advice.

I guess I will replace the cables and go on from there.
 

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Thanks again for the advice.

I guess I will replace the cables and go on from there.
I have been kicking this can down the road for a year...until I get new batteries because everything is corroded.

If I replace just the batteries then I fear the cable corrosion will spread to them and if I replace the cables only then the battery post corrosion will re-contaminate the new cables. I want to do it all at once.

I know...faulty logic.

I am treating the corrosion like its mold or contageous bacteria.

But I have decided to just get new Ford OEM from White Bear Lake when I do buy the new cables.
I dreamed about some of those custom built cables with all the upgraded military terminals and such...but with two trucks needing them and the EPA very likely making my old 7.3s illegal to operate on public roadways in the next 10 years, I guess the original Ford cables lasted 14 before issues.

Lol
 

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I have been kicking this can down the road for a year...until I get new batteries because everything is corroded.

If I replace just the batteries then I fear the cable corrosion will spread to them and if I replace the cables only then the battery post corrosion will re-contaminate the new cables. I want to do it all at once.

I know...faulty logic.

I am treating the corrosion like its mold or contageous bacteria.

But I have decided to just get new Ford OEM from White Bear Lake when I do buy the new cables.
I dreamed about some of those custom built cables with all the upgraded military terminals and such...but with two trucks needing them and the EPA very likely making my old 7.3s illegal to operate on public roadways in the next 10 years, I guess the original Ford cables lasted 14 before issues.

Lol

I have never liked the OEM cable connections at the battery terminals. So I am going to buy custom cables or make my own. I have to determine the difference in price. Then I will decide ...
 

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IIRC, the Custom Cables were nearly $200 more per set.

Please post your findings and which year you researched because I think the ‘02 is different from previous years.
 

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I have repaired 7.3 + cable set by using brass marine battery terminals and crimping and soldering lugs on the ends of cables. The LH cable and RH batt to starter cable ends are stacked on the RH terminal but I get voltage drops of 20 mV or less using starter as load. The OE chunk of lead connection on RH side is worse than that on a good cable. Don't forget to check block to neg terminal voltage to make sure you don't have problems on those.
 

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"but with two trucks needing them and the EPA very likely making my old 7.3s illegal to operate on public roadways in the next 10 years"

Emissions?

Do you have any more information on this? I'm interested to learn more on this.

Thanks
 

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"but with two trucks needing them and the EPA very likely making my old 7.3s illegal to operate on public roadways in the next 10 years"

Emissions?

Do you have any more information on this? I'm interested to learn more on this.

Thanks
Sorry...just 100% personal opinion.
Not even worth 2¢. I just remember CA regulating pre-2010 big rigs.

I should have just said even a new set of OEM will probably outlast my trucks...or ME ?
 

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Sorry...just 100% personal opinion.
Not even worth 2¢. I just remember CA regulating pre-2010 big rigs.

I should have just said even a new set of OEM will probably outlast my trucks...or ME ?
California has already banned any modifications to our trucks, unless they are CARB approved, which are few and far between, and a smog check is required every two years to make sure that no unapproved modifications have been made.
 
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