Steering Rag Joint Part # approx cost etc
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12,232 Posts
Item#: BK 6301445
Price: $ 59.99
tax and shipping not included
Contact customer service for ordering details.
Attributes:
Attributes: Steering Coupling Assy
Type of Packaging: Carded
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15566101&prmenbr=5806
Price: $ 59.99
tax and shipping not included
Contact customer service for ordering details.
Attributes:
Attributes: Steering Coupling Assy
Type of Packaging: Carded
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15566101&prmenbr=5806
Joined
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12,232 Posts
[ QUOTE ]
Item#: BK 6301445
Price: $ 59.99
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15566101&prmenbr=5806
[/ QUOTE ]
That part No. is NLA. It does not come up on the NAPA Prolink site, though it still does on the retail site. I just got off the phone with my Prolink guru, and he told me that the retail site does not update as often.
NAPA appears to have no specific-application part for the 80's Ford pickups. They have at least two generic coupler repair kits; one might fit, but we'd have to measure a good old one to even guess.
Item#: BK 6301445
Price: $ 59.99
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/NAPAonline/search_results_product_detail.d2w/report?prrfnbr=15566101&prmenbr=5806
[/ QUOTE ]
That part No. is NLA. It does not come up on the NAPA Prolink site, though it still does on the retail site. I just got off the phone with my Prolink guru, and he told me that the retail site does not update as often.
NAPA appears to have no specific-application part for the 80's Ford pickups. They have at least two generic coupler repair kits; one might fit, but we'd have to measure a good old one to even guess.
Yeah I'm just reposting this hoping someone has some advice about how to R&R this thing and even how to tell if I actually need it replaced. Here's what I've done so far, replaced outer tie rod ends, radius arm bushings, power steering gear and pump, and tires. Also had wheel alignment done. I was advised that the kingpins are worn, but that this should not cause excessive steering play. The balljoints are also okay, and mainly what I have now is the steering is very sloppy, like steering a boat ya know....so is this gonna be the rag joint, adjusting teh gearbox,...or what? Thanks!
Joined
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1,850 Posts
If there is any play in the rag-joint, then it needs to be replaced.
Looking under the hood with someone rocking the steering wheel:
If the shaft above the rag-joint moves without the shaft below the rag-joint moving, replace the rag.
A rag-joint repair kit is cheaper than the full rag-joint.
Looking under the hood with someone rocking the steering wheel:
If the shaft above the rag-joint moves without the shaft below the rag-joint moving, replace the rag.
A rag-joint repair kit is cheaper than the full rag-joint.
Point taken its just not good /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/sick.gif, but I checked the rag joint and there is apparently no play. It must be either the kingpins or too much play in the gearbox... I ask again, how hard and expensive are the kingpins to fix? Thanks
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1,850 Posts
I just read the procedure in the manual and it seems fairly easy. Similar to ball joints, Ford calls them spindle pins.
With all the work you are doing, do you have a manual?
I can copy the procedure for you if you need it, it'll just take a little while as I am a slow typist.
With all the work you are doing, do you have a manual?
I can copy the procedure for you if you need it, it'll just take a little while as I am a slow typist.
Kingpin bushings are finished in place, so they require a sizing reamer, as well as a stepped bushing installer.
The first task is getting the old kingpins out, which generally requires a specialized vocabulary and an acetylene torch setup. I've seen a SawzAll involved on some as well. Once you get the kingpin out you have to get the old bushings out, that's where the bushing installer comes into play. Or a hacksaw blade. Then clean the bores, push in the new bushings, ream to size and to make parallel (ream a little, try dropping the kingpin through the bores, ream some more . . . ). After that, it's simple to reassemble, but it's usually a big hammers and lot of heat job. At least is has been for me.
But loose kingpins will not give you lots of slop in the steering wheel just sitting in your driveway, so ascertain what's up with that first. You'd checked the rag joint, now look under the front end at the steering box's Pittman arm while someone else gently rocks the wheel back and forth through the play area. My off-the-top guess is that you have a damaged steering box. In general, I've found that you can adjust out very little play via the adjust screw. Anything more than one turn, and you'll find it binding on turns (not good!). The sector shaft bushing goes bad on the Ford boxes very commonly -- that's the shaft that comes out of the box to which the Pittman arm is attached, and instead of turning, the shaft moves around in its bore. That's where I've seen the most play in the box, but the sector gear gets worn too.
The first task is getting the old kingpins out, which generally requires a specialized vocabulary and an acetylene torch setup. I've seen a SawzAll involved on some as well. Once you get the kingpin out you have to get the old bushings out, that's where the bushing installer comes into play. Or a hacksaw blade. Then clean the bores, push in the new bushings, ream to size and to make parallel (ream a little, try dropping the kingpin through the bores, ream some more . . . ). After that, it's simple to reassemble, but it's usually a big hammers and lot of heat job. At least is has been for me.
But loose kingpins will not give you lots of slop in the steering wheel just sitting in your driveway, so ascertain what's up with that first. You'd checked the rag joint, now look under the front end at the steering box's Pittman arm while someone else gently rocks the wheel back and forth through the play area. My off-the-top guess is that you have a damaged steering box. In general, I've found that you can adjust out very little play via the adjust screw. Anything more than one turn, and you'll find it binding on turns (not good!). The sector shaft bushing goes bad on the Ford boxes very commonly -- that's the shaft that comes out of the box to which the Pittman arm is attached, and instead of turning, the shaft moves around in its bore. That's where I've seen the most play in the box, but the sector gear gets worn too.
Joined
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1,850 Posts
Spindle pin R&R for a 2 wheel drive truck:
Raise and support the front of the truck
Remove wheel and tire
Remove and support the caliper
Remove Rotor
Remove brake dust shield
Disconnect the steering linkage
Remove nut and lock-washer from lock pin (runs fore and aft thru the axle and locks the spindle pin in place)
Remove upper and lower spindle pin plugs, then drive spindle pin out from the top.
Remove the spindle pin seal and thrust bearing
Installation:
Make sure that the spindle pin hole in the axle is clean and free of nicks, burrs and dirt, then lightly grease
Gently press the seal into the bottom of the top hole on the spindle, be careful not to distort the case
Install the new thrust bearing in the top of the bottom hole of the spindle, press until the bearing is firmly seated
Lightly grease the bushing and slide spindle onto the axle
Install the spindle pin with the "T" stamped end toward the top and the notch toward the lock hole, drive in from the top until the notch aligns with the lock hole
Install the lock pin with the threads facing forward and the wedge groove facing the spindle pin notch, install nut and lock-washer and torque to 38-62 ft-lbs
Install spindle pin plugs and tighten to 35-50 ft-lbs
Grease the spindle pin and bushings through both fittings until grease appears seeping past the upper seal at the top and from the thrust bearing slip joint at the bottom. If grease does not appear, recheck the installation and correct the problem. If it is not greased good you will soon be redoing it.
Install dust shield
Install rotor, grease wheel bearings and install new seals
Install caliper
Install steering linkage and tighten to 70-100 ft-lbs (don't forget cotter pin)
Install wheel and tire
Take truck off the jack-stands
Check alignment
Grin and have fun driving the truck
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
Raise and support the front of the truck
Remove wheel and tire
Remove and support the caliper
Remove Rotor
Remove brake dust shield
Disconnect the steering linkage
Remove nut and lock-washer from lock pin (runs fore and aft thru the axle and locks the spindle pin in place)
Remove upper and lower spindle pin plugs, then drive spindle pin out from the top.
Remove the spindle pin seal and thrust bearing
Installation:
Make sure that the spindle pin hole in the axle is clean and free of nicks, burrs and dirt, then lightly grease
Gently press the seal into the bottom of the top hole on the spindle, be careful not to distort the case
Install the new thrust bearing in the top of the bottom hole of the spindle, press until the bearing is firmly seated
Lightly grease the bushing and slide spindle onto the axle
Install the spindle pin with the "T" stamped end toward the top and the notch toward the lock hole, drive in from the top until the notch aligns with the lock hole
Install the lock pin with the threads facing forward and the wedge groove facing the spindle pin notch, install nut and lock-washer and torque to 38-62 ft-lbs
Install spindle pin plugs and tighten to 35-50 ft-lbs
Grease the spindle pin and bushings through both fittings until grease appears seeping past the upper seal at the top and from the thrust bearing slip joint at the bottom. If grease does not appear, recheck the installation and correct the problem. If it is not greased good you will soon be redoing it.
Install dust shield
Install rotor, grease wheel bearings and install new seals
Install caliper
Install steering linkage and tighten to 70-100 ft-lbs (don't forget cotter pin)
Install wheel and tire
Take truck off the jack-stands
Check alignment
Grin and have fun driving the truck
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif
[ QUOTE ]
Remove upper and lower spindle pin plugs, then drive spindle pin out from the top.
[/ QUOTE ]
It ain't that easy. The pin never (in my experience) comes out easy. Heat, big hammers, and talking to God help.[ QUOTE ]
Lightly grease the bushing and slide spindle onto the axle
[/ QUOTE ]
Not likely. The bushings do not just slip into place, unless the F250 of that era is different from the Fords or earlier years.
I would not expect things to go anywhere near that smoothly, and in practice, the bushings are finished in place. But I have not done '80s F-series kingpins specifically.
Remove upper and lower spindle pin plugs, then drive spindle pin out from the top.
[/ QUOTE ]
It ain't that easy. The pin never (in my experience) comes out easy. Heat, big hammers, and talking to God help.[ QUOTE ]
Lightly grease the bushing and slide spindle onto the axle
[/ QUOTE ]
Not likely. The bushings do not just slip into place, unless the F250 of that era is different from the Fords or earlier years.
I would not expect things to go anywhere near that smoothly, and in practice, the bushings are finished in place. But I have not done '80s F-series kingpins specifically.
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