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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I bought a 10 powerstroke sterling 10.5 for 250 bucks! The guy said he tried to adjust backlash didn't get it correct and was making a lot of noise so he bought a new one, now I'm trying to gear it to 410 so I can convert my Dually to a srw while correcting his mistake and I got the gear switched over to the carrier and tried to set backlash and when I tighten the carrier bearing holder or whatever it is and if I tighten the bolts to 10 or more ft lbs(rough estimate) everything gets super tight and I can't turn it, but if I losen it to just finger tight it moves freely, but what confuses me is they are all the way seated even with just ginger tight and it ms only 1/4 of a turn between finger tight and 40 ft lbs so idk what I need to do to prevent the gears from locking up like that any help would be much appreciated thanks for the help
 

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Is this carrier has shim on each side or screw adjuster on each side? What im thinking is the carrier might be adjusted too tight towards the pinion and when you tight the bearing cap, it tight everything together (ring gear and pinion).


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Also- how did you set the pinion depth?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The carrier has shims on both sides, I thought it was the gears meshing too closely also so I started taking shims out of the left side(ring gear side) and putting them on the right to push the ring gear further away from the pinion and after 30 thousandths it's still tight when I tighten the carrier bearing caps. pinion depth hasn't been set yet, I used the old shims as a guide but that was to deep from the contact pattern ( I got a contact pattern by having shims in without tightening until it couldn't turn so I think we pulled 20 thousandths out for pinion depth which put me close) but the wear said I needed to add backlash which I agreed with becaus there was none,(was waiting on a carrier shim kit that I got today). so then I was trying to set backlash so I could check wear pattern again to see if I liked it; I had between 6-7 thousands backlash if I left all the bolts just an 8th of a turn loose but it disappeared again when I tightened them. Do I just need more backlash? Or is something asembled wrong aka the carrier bearing retainers that I was suppose to mark that I forgot and only God knows if I got them right. I honestly don't believe that would make a difference tho would it?
 

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Yes bearing cap has to go back the same way they where machined with the carrier. Look on the bearing cap you will find a arrow, if I remember the arrow should point the outside the carrier and when you remove the carrier, install both cap and normally you can match the machine line with the cap.

If when you tight the bearing cap and everything bind together, its because the ring gear is way too much toward the pinion or pinion depth is way off

On 10.5 you start with 0.265" on the left side and add the more/bigger shim you can insert by hand.

Add or remove shim to get your ring and pinion backlash

Always check the backlash with the bearing cap torqued to spec

When pattern and backlash are in spec, add 0.006" on each side for carrier bearing preload

It will be really tight to fit all that in without a housing spreader but its doable


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so I went out and looked for arrows, couldn't find any. And I'm not sure what to look for when you say match the machining marks. But I saw a faint outline of were they were before so I noticed the part number was facing the same direction on both when lined up so I think that I got figured out which side is up and possibly left and right but not sure, how big of deal is it if they are in the wrong spot? I feel that it wouldn't make a difference.

I decided to keep pulling shims out until I could get it to freely rotate, so I ended up with nothing on the left all the shims ( 520 thousandths) on the on the right and when I tighten all the nuts down I still can't turn it by hand, but I could turn it with a pry bar, and it had like a quarter inch of backlash... So I think I was pretty close when It was set earlier but idk why I can't turn it still. I also switched the carrier bearing caps to see if that what was looking it up but that's not the case.

New problem; so in my haste I was using a cordless drill and started a bolt just a little crooked, now I can't get it to start straight. It's not too messed up now so I decided to stop and get your guys opinion on how to correct this before I really screw up the treads.

So what' is the next step? Remove pinion shims even tho it's already 20 thou less than what was in there?not much left to remove... I'll be out of adjustment in like 20-30 thou more I believe

thanks for your help guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh and could you tell me how you usually set pinion depth? I was told retry the old shims and you should be close then read the contact pattern to fine tune it. so that's what we did, and it read that pinion was too far in at first then we got it close to middle but the teeth were very deep in the gear; telling me i needed more backlash , which I agreed with, but now I have way way way too much back lash. I still I don't think it should be as hard to turn as it is. Is there and kind of specs on Torque required to turn the whole assembly after its assembled?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And that's exactly what I did, besides usin shims, I used shims but should that make much difference? And i was curious about why eliminating the crush sleeve is recommended? Why not just get another? ... Does it make a difference that I havnt been using the crush sleeve to set the gears up?

So all in all you think I should reset pinion depth without shims for the carrier and see if that frees up the gears?
 

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I'm not sure where you are binding- whether it's the pinion being pushed back into the retainer (new bearings, right) or the interference with the carrier decreasing as it seats. Do you have the axle on a stand with the snout down or are you trying to do this in the vehicle?
 

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Are you using aftermarket gears? If yes you need to use 10.25 inner pinion bearing and not the 10.5 inner pinion bearing

If you are not using aftermarket gears I recommend removing the pinion and recheck all bearing and race make sure they are all well seated.

How thick shim you have for your pinion depth???


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The axle is on a stand sitting as it would in the vehicle but I can put it yoke down if I need, I do not have new bearing the guy I bought it from said he just put a new bearing in, and it does look new so I'm reusing it.
The gears are precision gear and I think they have the ford stamp (idk if that means anything)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh and pinion depth is like 25 thousandths less than what was in there, so I think there's like 20 thousandth in right now, not much.. Maybe I should take out all shims just for fun to see if it still binds?
 

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That's a good idea. Rotate it snout down. Make gravity your friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So now what to do about that bolt? Should I just start turning on it and hope that it straightens the threads by itself it starts about 2 turns before it gets tough. And also how hard is it to turn an assembled rear end? Am I just being a pansy about it? With 3 bolts tight I can turn it but I need a rag and it moves the axle on the stands but I can turn it little by little
 

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I missed the bolt part. Run a tap into the hole to clean it up. Use a thread file on the bolt to clean up that first buggered thread.

You should be able to spin an assembled rear end with very little resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok, any suggestions where to buy a single tap?
I think I'll pull the pinion out and see how easy it is to turn then may help give us a better starting point
 

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Most hardware stores have them individual. So would any fastener store. Before you pull the pinion, put your hand on the gear side and put all your weight on it and try to spin it.
 

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