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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a seemingly odd starting issue: turn key to run, wait for wait to start light to go out, turn key to start, let crank for a few seconds, sometimes will start. If it doesnt start without fail if i turn the key off and repeat it starts nearly immediately. almost as if the first crank was priming. I am not sure where to start with this one, but it seems like the fuel system somewhere?
 

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Depends on the type of motor you have and what model truck, but normally it could be a few things , cold start , check this thread that KL wrote about hard starts.
Hard or no-start? Check Here

You could also have a leak down in the HPOP reservoir,
when the truck sits over night crack the inspection plug on the top of the hpop reservoir and check the level of oil in there , it should be about 3/4'' from the top .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the info. not yet. im gunna do that shortly. had to let the truck sit overnight. as it was just run about 10 min before i posted yesterday.
 

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That's okay, be sure and post your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My finding were that that plug is somehow stripped out(i dont know how its a fricken torx bit! the previous owner was doing something there i think.. ) anyway, while i try to get this damn thing off is there a chance you could link to that post by KL it didnt work as a link in your post.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So i got time to mess around with it a little today and what i found was that my icp started around 400 psi and quickly built to a little over 2k psi. so i doubt its the reservoir? maybe im wrong..i still plan to check it when i get the chance. hopefully tomorrow morning. I found the post you were talking about (though i had to do it through a google search as it wasnt showing up here) I already replaced my GPR but havent checked the plugs. maybe tomorrow or tues.(moving in to college, been busy.) what else could it be if not glow plugs?

Also would it make sense for it to have hard starts even when it is warmish out? or do they rely on them that heavily?
 

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So i got time to mess around with it a little today and what i found was that my icp started around 400 psi and quickly built to a little over 2k psi. so i doubt its the reservoir? maybe im wrong..i still plan to check it when i get the chance. hopefully tomorrow morning. I found the post you were talking about (though i had to do it through a google search as it wasnt showing up here) I already replaced my GPR but havent checked the plugs. maybe tomorrow or tues.(moving in to college, been busy.) what else could it be if not glow plugs?

Also would it make sense for it to have hard starts even when it is warmish out? or do they rely on them that heavily?
ALL 8 of my GPs were dead in my 2000 7.3 PSD (140K miles) and it would still start without being plugged in when the temps were above 40 F and below 5K foot elevation. It would turn over quickly--within 2-3 seconds at most.

I would typically plug the block heater in though just to give it a little help.

If you have not read up on GP replacement yet, then the most important thing to remember is to buy Motorcraft glow plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
im 850 ft above sea level and 155k miles on the truck. so its unlikely to be glow plugs as a root cause?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am pretty sure the glow plugs are not the issue. the relay is new, and it does it whether it is hot or cold. another thing ive noticed is it sometimes cranks over sort of slow like the starter is struggling with the amount of compression. Im at a loss on this..
 

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It sounds like you can rule out the glow plugs then.

What about the condition of your batteries and charging system?
 

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Yes the battery condition is very important to start these 7.3's.
As AC said charge the batteries one at a time and try.
Have you access to a PSD capable scanner so you can monitor your ICP and IPR ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
what is IPR? i have a scanner that reads all the pids yes. just not sure what each tells me.. The batterys i dont know. i need to have them tested at some point i suppose.
 

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Yes you need to remove them and charge them one at a time , then take them to a Auto shop and have them load tested.
Check all the ground cables going to the batteries for any corrosion.
The IPR valve regulates the pressure in the high pressure oil system that runs the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Im gunna take them to an autozone tomorrow and get em load tested.
Ill post a video tomorrow showing the issue with IPR and ICP
 

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Ill post a video tomorrow showing the issue with IPR and ICP
Have you tried disconnecting the ICP and fired it up first in the morning?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No, im new to diesels, how do i go about doing this? right now the car is just sitting as i have a bike to get around campus so id anticipate a hard start later today.
 

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No, im new to diesels, how do i go about doing this? right now the car is just sitting as i have a bike to get around campus so id anticipate a hard start later today.
Here's a photo of where to find most of the sensors around the motor.
One clear indicator that your ICP is bad is if you remove the plug from it and see oil in the plug or the top of the sensor then its time to change your ICP.
Your truck should still run with a bad ICP.
The PCM has a default setting (725psi) that it will go to, to allow the truck to run.

A bad IPR can keep the truck from starting, normally when it gets hot and restart when it cools down but so will a lot of other things though!
 

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