[PSDCool]

After 165k miles which equates to 33 oil changes at 5k intervals my oil drain plug is stripped. Dealer said they have to remove the engine to change the pan. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif What are my options? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

Thanks in advance.

 

[WhiteDuallyIL]

***** out the shop that changed the oil when it was found to be stripped and get them to pay for it. after working at a shop for many years this is possible just because it has 100 oil changes done is no excuse for a stripped plug accidents happen. sorry in advance if you stripped it happens but if a shop did it NO WAY should you have to pay the entire big. as far as options you could put a half oversize plug in but thats a bandaid really most of the few options you have are bandaids . and yes the motor has to come out to change out the pan and then the gasket matereial has to cure for 24 hours to set then it can go back in the truck. and if the pan is coming out check the oil squirters as well.

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

You can either change the oil pan like the dealer said or find a plug that is bigger than yours now and drill and tap the pan for that plug.

 

[klhansen]

[ QUOTE ]
You can either change the oil pan like the dealer said or find a plug that is bigger than yours now and drill and tap the pan for that plug.

[/ QUOTE ]
Some places carry a self-tapping oversize drain plug. Not the most elegant solution, but sure cheaper than changing the pan.

 

[MOUNTAINMAN444]

I'd re-tap to the next smallest size up. You might even have to go metric to keep it from getting too big. After re-tapping you might want to pour your old oil (or new if you want to) through it to wash any chips from tapping out of the pan.
Joe

 

[THEDIESELMAN]

I didn't know about the self tapping drain plugs but i would try that before I took the engine out, but if it was me and I had to take the engine out I would slap some forged rods in.

 

[arisley]

Tap it out. Find the next size plug first. If you use a self tapping plug use it to cut the threads and then replace it with a regular plug with the same threads, self tappers are very easy to crossthread, and then you are right back where you are now with a bigger hole and less good steel to work with.

 

[GrampyJim]

It is usually just the drain plug that is damaged..... Before I resorted to any manner of butchery, I'd try a new, stock drain plug.

 

[JonH]

What Grampy said. On our Windstar (I know, I know it's not a truck) the dealer did an oil change and the next time I did it the plug came out boogered up. I went to them and screamed up a storm. They put a new plug in and, presto, good as new.

 

[arisley]

[ QUOTE ]
After 165k miles which equates to 33 oil changes at 5k intervals my oil drain plug is stripped. Dealer said they have to remove the engine to change the pan. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif What are my options? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif

Thanks in advance.

[/ QUOTE ]

Yup, what Pappy said.

 

[fulltimer50]

Or you could go with a drain valve that once sealed would not have to be moved again. JUst open the valve to drain.

 

[GrampyJim]

Just to balance the equation... the Fumoto valve is convenience plus.... Many love them.

My preference is to have the ability to inspect the magnet on the drain plug for debris (debris that is sometimes called a piston cooling jet).

I am not saying "buy" and I'm not saying "don't buy"... just make your buying decision after knowing all the possibilities.

 

[KF6ZVT]

I've fixed a bunch of oil pans that were stripped out by the idiots at the local Jiffy Lube. I use Heli-Coils, never had a leak after the fix; and the replacement threads are stronger stainless steel. You can get Heli-Coil kits at NAPA or some local hardware stores.

 

[arisley]

Heli coil is a great permanent fix, did not know they made them big enough for oil plugs.

 

[fire57dan]

I think they do make Heli coils big enough, we use them on our spark plug threads on chainsaws and it works well.

 

[Gooch]

[ QUOTE ]
By Grampy_Jim:

My preference is to have the ability to inspect the magnet on the drain plug for debris (debris that is sometimes called a piston cooling jet).

[/ QUOTE ]

With the factory drain plug, you might get lucky and have the cooling jet attach itself to the magnet. But a good tech wouldn't rely on that method. The magnet isn't powerful enough to pull the cooling jet across the pan, even if it's just a few inches away. Not to mention the baffles and oil pick-up in the way.

The best way to inspect for a cooling jet that has fallen out is to bang on the empty pan after draining the oil, or better yet, probe the inside of the pan with a flexible mechanic's magnet.

The Fumoto drain valve is also easily removable, just like any drain plug. So inspection with a magnet is easy. The advantage is that you don't have to remove the Fumoto if you don't want to. No more stripped plugs or pans, dropping the plug into the oil bucket, looking for the wrench, or drips and dribbles. Once you go Fumoto, you'll never go back.

PSDCool, one additional suggestion that I've seen done...you could have a new nut brazed onto the pan by a skilled welder.

 

[slydiesel]

[ QUOTE ]
Just to balance the equation... the Fumoto valve is convenience plus.... Many love them.



[/ QUOTE ]

i have one.... fumoto drain valve

 

[brocanicbob]

The truck I currently own was serviced at a Ford dealer in Colorado. I have all the oil change records since new. I was astounded that every other oil change, they replaced the drain plug. (no joke).

 

[arisley]

Sounds like dealer that has had to replace an engine. Good insurance for them. Good cheap piece of mind for you.

 

[Atlantaboy]

[ QUOTE ]
I'd re-tap to the next smallest size up. You might even have to go metric to keep it from getting too big. After re-tapping you might want to pour your old oil (or new if you want to) through it to wash any chips from tapping out of the pan.
Joe

[/ QUOTE ]

This is what I'd do. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smokin.gif