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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im stationed over hear in Germany with a 2003 F-250 (7.3L Diesel). My wife was driving it back and the O/D light started flashing and making a weird noise above 40 mph. Long story short I have had it in the Ford dealership for 2 weeks now. Im not 100% sure its the tranny. The Germans don't often see these trucks and don't work on them much. I just spent 600 dollars on computer checks with them and all they can tell me is its something in the tranny (90% sure). The only codes in the tranny thats coming up is a hydraulic code & 4x4. Before i took it in i checked the pulleys changed the power steering and no difference. The truck shifts just fine.

Also my truck is haveing a terrible time starting. The mechanic told me it was an hpop and a valve that was bad, but he wouldn't tell me what one (i took it to another mechanic previously and he said it was a computer thing with my glowplugs) I asked the Ford mechanic if i could get the codes from him for a second opion back in the states before i bought a transmission. He told me to take my truck and get out of his shop. So i paid 600 dollars for nothing to show for. If you could help me in any way please let me know. Parts and labor is very expensive over here and its very difficult. All in all i don't trust the mechanics (and the knowledge of this vehicle) and am at a stand still of what to do. Thanks
 

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"The only codes in the tranny thats coming up is a hydraulic code & 4x4."

Is your truck a 4X4? Do you know the code Number's that came up?
Sounds like they don't have the proper code reader for the 7.3 engine.

Can you describe the weird noise? Difficult but try.

"He told me to take my truck and get out of his shop."
Well that SOB didn't know what he was doing anyhow.

"Before i took it in i checked the pulleys changed the power steering and no difference. The truck shifts just fine."

Power steering and/or pulley's have no bearing on the Transmission.
Check the trans. fluid level when it is hot/warm, after at least 20 miles driving, or idleing for 30 minutes.

" Also my truck is haveing a terrible time starting. The mechanic told me it was an hpop and a valve that was bad, but he wouldn't tell me what one (i took it to another mechanic previously and he said it was a computer thing with my glowplugs"
How cold is it in Germany? Does the WTS (Wait to Start Signal) come on for about 20 seconds ? Around 45-50 degrees.
If the WTS is real short, then you may have some bad glow plug(s)

Make sure your engine oil level is up between the marks when cold.

Mark K will probably chime in on your trans. problem.
 

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When was the last time you changed your transmission fluid? Sometimes it's just the simple obvious choices. Best of Success! And thanks for serving! :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My truck is 4X4. Here are the codes i got from the dealer today....finally.
B2658 P1832 B1483 C1710
P1211 P1670 B1352 C1707
P0381 P0741 C1701
P1876 P1884 C1704

The sound is a low whinning nosie. Real hard to hear if your not paying attention. Only does it when in drive around 40 mph. its sounds like its coming from around the gas pedals. The truck is shifting fine and the o/d light flashes on and off no matter if o/d is on or off. I have power loss also. Could it be my torque converter???

As for my other problem about starting, i tried to start my truck this afternoon (when i picked it up) and had a horrible time starting it (60 degrees out). The wts light comes on for id say over atleast 10-15 seconds. Oil level i full, changed it a few weeks ago. I also was wondering if it could be my fuel pump going bad or oil pump??. I was running 15-40 in it because i was hauling a heavy tralier. Thanks
 

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You may want to try going to your local auto hooby shop and see what they have for diagnostic tools. Usually they have a scanner and some sort of Mechanic program to walk you through troubleshooting. I know Ramstein and Spangdalhem used to have a pretty good group of folks to work with.

George
 

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My truck is 4X4. Here are the codes i got from the dealer today....finally.
B1352 Ignition Key-In Circuit Failure (did you disable the key in ignition dinger?)
B1483 Brake Pedal Input Circuit Failure - 4x4 Module
B2658 Wait to Start Warning Indicator Circuit Open
P0381 Glow plug indicator circuit malfunction - Open grounded circuit, lamp open, failed PCM
C1701 Rear Outer Left Sensor Fault - Parking Aid Module
C1704 Rear Outer Right Sensor Fault - Parking Aid Module
C1707 Rear Inner Left Sensor Fault - Parking Aid Module
C1710 Rear Inner Left Sensor Fault - Parking Aid Module
P0741 Torque converter clutch circuit performance
Causes: Circuit failure, faulty solenoid, PCM
From the tranny diagnosis section of the service manual: TCC slippage detected. TCC slippage erratic or no torque converter clutch operation. May flash TCIL.
P1211 ICP pressure above/below desired - IPR valve failed, stuck, or shorted to ground
P1670 EF signal not detected - EF signal not detected (this has to do with communications between the IDM and the PCM. EF = Electronic Feedback)
P1832 Transmission Transfer Case Differential Lock-Up - 4x4 Module
P1876 Transmission Transfer Case 2-Wheel Drive Solenoid Circuit Failure - 4x4 Module
P1884 (couldn't find that one, but judging from the number range, it's probably a 4x4 module fault also.

Now for my guesses:
Red - You probably have a bad Torque converter solenoid, or possibly a wire has been damaged in the tranny harness, causing the torque converter clutch not to lock up like it should.

Blue - This may be the cause of your hard starting. It may need a new IPR, or you may get away with just cleaning it. Could also be just a loose coil nut on the back of the IPR, it's just a tin nut and they have been known to come loose. Messes up the ability of the IPR to properly control HP oil pressure to the injectors. Could be the cause of your low power as well.

Purple - This is a communication problem between the IDM (injector driver module) and the PCM. Electronic feedback is just the IDM telling the PCM that it got and executed the command to fire the injectors. Not necessarily a killer problem.

The B and C codes aren't powertrain related, and not critical.
B2658/P0381 just means your WTS light circuit isn't working. Doesn't necessarily mean your GP's aren't working.
Your backup sensor system is apparently Tango Uniform.
You have some issues with your 4x4 module, probably means your 4x4 isn't operating correctly.

Mark K can probably point you in the right direction on the Torque Converter thing. Doesn't sound real serious, but if you got nailed for $600 just for diagnosis, then it may cost you a bundle if you have the same guy fix it. I doubt I'd recommend that.

Let us know if we can help in any way (parts shipping, etc.)

Thanks for your service.

on edit: forgot to mention the link in my signature for checking glow plug relay and GP's. click on Hard or no-start.
 
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