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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 1997 e450 superduty 32ft rv and plan on towing with it at 25k gross weight. I have added gauges, 02 van turbo, bellowed up pipes, 3 in intakes, 4 inch exhaust, e-fuel and bowl delete, and 120v idm.


1)I am trying to decide between a ww2 or rr to help get my bottom back from the bigger turbo swap. I have read that the WW2 was better than the rr6/6 in the van turbo in the lower rpms spool up but haven't seen anything bout the rr4/4...other than: Per Clay the 4/4 is a smidge quieter and gives a smidge more boost vs 6/6". How much do the wheels weigh? I've seen ww2 is 5.5027 oz or 13% lighter than oem.

2)I don't want to do the 08+ front clip so I am planning an a2w intercooler to combat compressor heat but haven't found a big enough heat exchanger yet that makes me happy, so I probably will end up with 2 in series maybe 3. I would like one to be the size of the radiator but only 1 inch thick, but I think I might be dreaming on that one.

3)I AM swapping my edge ez/banks trans command(both previous owner) for a ts 6 pos chip or a dp product? with live tunes as soon as assembled. I believe dp has a more capable chip than ts but I would be limited to the one tuner which I don't like. Who all sells the ts with lifetime reburns that are worth it? I am leaning towards php. My dad keeps pushing swamps.

4)I'm pretty sure I have ab injectors (from my research and ill pull a valve cover soon to confirm). I am thinking about swapping to ad's but concerned about egt's. Ad's seem to be the easiest injectors to get ahold of from a salvage yard or auto parts store if I had one fail on the road, which is why I wanna stay stock type sticks. I've also read stock nozzles are better for towing due to better atomization.

5)This brings me to med/big oil. I want as much down low as possible to get the rigs weight going. Is there such a thing as too much hpop for this combo? I dont see anybody talking about doubles on stock injectors other than loping/wandering idle and ipr duty cycle issues with 2 iprs so I think that is out. Did the overdrive ever get an ok for daily driving? srp1.1 have had some catastrophic failures which leaves terminator my first choice as of now.

6)In the spring I am considering a sd pcm wiring 4r100 swap when I do a 4x4 conversion.
A)what is the best model to get the pcm from?
B)Are there other supply sources besides ujointoffroad.com for the 4x4 brackets etc.?

Is there any positive suggestions or anything missing from my list that will help with getting the weight rolling and keep egts in check?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
3) top choice now is power hungry hydra

4)After more research, ab's and ad's flow 5cc difference so that would be pretty pointless.
Now I'm leaning towards ac's-160/0 or even 160/30. Are single shots a whole lot louder or just a little bit?
 

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I would be looking at a fully-built transmission too. I would look at Brian's Truck Shop or John Wood for that. It won't be cheap, but you don't want that to be the weak link either. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Patrick, but I will rebuild my own trans as I cant trust other people wrenching on my stuff period. And the plan is a 4r100 swap with electronic transfer case when I do the 4x4 swap and sd pcm and wiring(mat sensor input) after the ic install. All in due time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got the rr2-4/4 wheel today and it weighs 3.526 ounces or 101.06 grams. That's almost 2 ounces lighter than the ww2-5/5 which I've seen weighs 5.5027 ounces. That seems a lot to me since they are both billet!

I am back to considering BO and ad's vs t500 and 160/30's.
I have 2 quotes from joey in 2007"What I noticed in his original post, is that he is looking for towing power, which is torque. That's one of the biggest advantages of Big Oil(anybodys system)." IIRC this was about BO and ad's vs 17* and ac's for towing.
and the second quote is "3000 psi is not enough pressure for any injector currently on the market"
and another unknown quote "more hpop volume results in better throttle response, better atomization, and if you can control your right foot, better fuel mileage."
This makes sense to me. BO helps increase the efficiency of the burn by increasing available high pressure oil across the rpm range, especially lower rpms where I feel it would benefit me more. The increased pressures result in better fuel injection pressures resulting in better fuel atomization resulting in a better burn and more towing power unleashed. where my understanding is 160's need 30% nozzles to get the fuel out in the same amount of time-this would lead to less fuel atomization and less fuel burn resulting in smoke and worse mpg's for the same amount of towing power. What I mean by towing power is useable power climbing an extended steep grade at 25,000 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I have a T500 in the works. will install the riffraff billet wheel when I do the hpop.

I just need to make a couple measurements for the w2a intercooler and heat exchangers available mounting areas.

I already have the meziere 20 gpm water pump and 1 gauge with both pre and post ic temp sensors to watch efficiency
I do need to get this radiator cap and fill point in the heater hose at the highest point in the system (http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-ai...ap-p-1064.html)

I plan on running two(maybe 3) heat ex-changers in series,
1st one in front of radiator/ac condenser (or 2 if the radiator core is over 25 inches tall?)
type 100 12x24x1 thick(http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-...or-p-1002.html)
2nd one in the bumper either
type 118 27x7x2 thick(http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-...or-p-1063.html) or a
type 101 27x7x3.5 thick(http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-...er-p-1026.html).
I've read on a couple of forums that the type 118 was more efficient than the type 101-as the air heats up as it passes front to back thru the he and in 2 inches,the air is already is heated and not cooling the rest of the 3.5 inches as efficiently.... resulting in inconsistent internal liquid temps resulting in higher outlet temps...

several people have run this w2a ic:
type 15(http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water...ers-p-215.html)
I'm guessing for clearance around the ac compressor, but I would prefer to run
type 5(http://www.frozenboost.com/air_water...ers-p-215.html)
for a more direct hot side air path(shorter hot side pipe)

cxracing and ebay both have more options but my understanding is frozenboost/siliconeintakes have better fin per inch counts for water to air...


and then buy a hydra and custom tunes and re-evaluate the injector choice...
 

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For what you plan I would go with the Rosewood 160cc/30% over nozzles for the injectors at least. I have those plus the T500 and the RR 4/4 wheel, and am very happy towing. The 4/4 wheel helped my EGTs a bit, and the PHP tow tunes keep it cooler as well. I do not run a CAC yet, but where I used too see 1100 up hill I now run at 900. The boost comes on sooner and the acceleration feels much more linear.

I'm curious what the axle ratio on the 450 is. For the weight your trying to haul I would think 4.30 would be optimal.

Wish you luck with your build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have had alot of downtime due to a back injury and surgery and I am just now getting back to this project. A few updates for anybody interested:

WVO-Already installed efuel, fuel bowl delete, 30 and 2 mic spin-on filters, regulated return, tank selector valve, temp and psi gauges. I have a van 35g midship tank to install for diesel. I have a wvodesigns pump, hot fox, 3 30plate fphe's, 2 racor 777r heated filters(darth vaders), 25ft hose in hose, all for the rear stock 55g plastic tank. I plan on being able to run svo below 0*f ambient, but still need to research a tank heater option to assist the hotfox.

Engine-I am planning on going with a t500 and 160/30 singleshot injectors.

Turbo- I have the riff raff 4/4 wheel to install in the 02 van turbo.

Tunes-I haven't decided on a tuner yet.

Intercooler- I have all a2w ic parts to install. This huge box lives in constant boost on the highways....12/13 psi to hold 75mph! I feel I will need more of a monster heat exchanger(or multiple hx's) than anyone has used on a standard van because I'm always in boost and making heat.

Trans-I am using the 4r100 over the e4od for the better shift strategies.

Wiring/ecm-I'm considering just going with a van ecm for a 4r100 trans...or I already have the complete wiring harness(with the MAT/IAT2 sensor!, ecm, and instrument cluster etc) from my 4wd donor truck.

4x4- I picked up an 02 f550 7.3 drw for the 4wd conversion. axles are 4.88 and have 19.5 rims mounted to clear the massive brakes. Transfer case is mechanical.

Solar power-I purchased 4 fullriver 4d agm batteries. I am switching to a 24v house batt bank for better high load inverter efficiency(i.e. a/c and electric "cheapheat"). I am going to toss the 3 panels([email protected]) I currently have and start over. I plan to cover every inch of space I can on the roof with 30-50v panels in parallel and a mppt charge controller. I haven't decided on which brand 24v inverter to go with yet.
 
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