[angst]

I haven't been able to figure out the magical search terms that match what I have going on.
It suddenly stalled. Would crank and go 200 feet surging and sputtering if you were deep in the pedal. Then it would die again. If you held the throttle pedal hard it would stay running just because it was surging high enough in between it dropping out and dying.

Here are videos I took after I managed to barely get it started yesterday after I plugged it in for 1hr and charged it completely.

In a couple of these videos keep in mind that my foot is on the accelerator to keep it from dying and that is what is making it rev.

Was close enough to a friends to limp it to his driveway and today I am on my third day of trying to figure this out.
The only codes thrown were CPS and keep alive memory (the second one gets thrown if you disconnect the battery terminals)
Replaced CPS yet again with a new motocraft and after clearing codes they have not come back despite it taking a couple hours to start and it will only run for 30 seconds to a minute or so.
Fuel filter replaced. Old filter was brown but not black. I am out of ideas.

I found one thread last night that suggested that if you unplug the injector control pressure sensor (ICP) that you can start it and limp it home. Is this the case and relevant to my situation?

 

[79jasper]

You can try unplugging the ICP sensor.
Do a fuel pressure test. Sounds like my truck when the tank pickups broke off and sent junk into the lines.

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[Patrick Feeley]

Check the main oil level too! Cheers!

 

[angst]

You can try unplugging the ICP sensor.
Do a fuel pressure test. Sounds like my truck when the tank pickups broke off and sent junk into the lines.

I did that today (unplugged the Injector Control Pressure Sensor) and it started right up and idled normal and ran no problem. Check engine light was on and it rattled your teeth when it shifted gears but it got me the 30 minute drive home without having to tow it.

Ill be able to check out the fuel pressure tomorrow from the comfort of my driveway. Im feeling better about life in general now

If it did not have problems driving with the ICP disconnected that would eliminate a physical fuel blockage as a possibility though would it not?

Check the main oil level too! Cheers!

Level is good to go. Thanks.

So since unplugging the ICP sensor made it go from un-drivable to mostly working what does that tell me diagnostically? Is it as simple as replacing the ICP?

 

[79jasper]

Correct. Replace icp sensor. Do the pigtail also if it has oil in it.

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[angst]

Correct. Replace icp sensor. Do the pigtail also if it has oil in it.

Well that is good to hear. I hope it works out. I actually ordered one before I even went to work on the truck today.
Why would they design in such a fail point like that?

I will update the thread with the results when that gets here to confirm and to help someone that may be searching later.

 

[79jasper]

Hopefully you went went Motorcraft. Ask me how I know.
And it's less failure prone than the cps, which I've personally never had one fail between 3 trucks.

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[Kimber1911]

Why would they design in such a fail point like that?

Because the engineers were old-school gearheads and brilliant.

Unplugging the ICP costs zero dollars, takes 43 seconds, and can tell you a lot about your run issue.

 

[angst]

New ICP arrived. Once installed it wont start. Take the electrical plug off and it starts right up and idles fine.
There was oil inside the sensor. I think that means something from reading some thread that I cant find right now.

No new insights from reading the codes.
I am getting P1280 injector pressure circuit low which I would think is triggered by unplugging the sensor.
and getting cam position sensor code again despite it being a new motocraft sensor. I have seen this CPS code show up many times in the past when the problems was not related to it at all.

 

[79jasper]

You never said, is it a Ford ICP?
This could be a wiring problem. You may need to pull the engine harness to inspect it. Ohm it at minimum.

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[angst]

The replacement was not a Ford brand ICP.
The plug to the ICP looks fine.
What is the ohm test procedure?

 

[79jasper]

Basically unhook all ends of the harness and ohm-ing it to see if any wires are crossed or broke.

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[Snowtow]

There was oil inside the sensor. I think that means something from reading some thread that I cant find right now.

Yes it does mean something. As was said earlier in the thread, if there's oil in the pigtail replace it also. You need a new pigtail.

 

[Kimber1911]

Also check the tin nut on the IPR.

 

[angst]

Here are the results of checking it out with a voltmeter.

Also check the tin nut on the IPR.

Looks like it should. I looked in my work log and in 2012 I cleaned it and replaced the gaskets with oem parts.

 

[79jasper]

Yeah, that's not right. You have a short or break in the wiring.

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[angst]

Yeah, that's not right. You have a short or break in the wiring.

What should it be? Is is supposed to be one lead is ground and the other two are positive 12v?

 

[79jasper]

The one you said has continuity to ground should be the 5 volt reference.
Below that should be ground.
The other is the signal return to pcm.

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[angst]

Im not necessarily calling this fixed but I drove it on errands two afternoons in a row without incident.

I was working my way back checking out the wires to the ICP. They looked good to go all the way back to the big bundle.
I did see though that the wires to another nearby sensor were kind of manky. I think it is the oil temp sensor but I am not positive about that. I pulled the wires so they were well separated.

I proceeded to fiddle with trying to get the Torque app to read codes or give me some pressure readings without success. I plugged in my tuner and read the codes and got the same icp code. Cleared the code.

I dont know if it was clearing the codes or the wires on the other sensor that make it work but but it seems to be behaving as it should for now. I am getting +5dc on one of the pins to the icp now too.