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Discussion Starter #21
Yea, I do see weights attached to the shafts. They are still there.
 

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How's the carrier bearing? Not that I know (and maybe somebody here can chime in), but don't the sections of driveshaft need to be "phased"? Cheers!
 

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Got my tires inspected and balanced. Only one went bad, need 14.5 grams lead. That tire was trashed. Drove my truck again. Guess what? Shaky gremlin is still there. *sigh*
Well you are still better off to have had the work done and eliminate one more possibility.

So here is a thought, have you driven the truck in various gears to determine if the vibration is speed related or RPM related?

Agree that a carrier bearing could be worn out. They should be snug and not sloppy when gripping and shaking the driveshaft by hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
How's the carrier bearing? Not that I know (and maybe somebody here can chime in), but don't the sections of driveshaft need to be "phased"? Cheers!
Well you are still better off to have had the work done and eliminate one more possibility.

So here is a thought, have you driven the truck in various gears to determine if the vibration is speed related or RPM related?

Agree that a carrier bearing could be worn out. They should be snug and not sloppy when gripping and shaking the driveshaft by hand.
Yes, I had the mid-section carrier replaced once back in 2000. I didn't feel anything from that one. Someone mentioned to check this part back in 2000 on this forum, under different name (pre-thedieselstop). From that, I just went up and checked it out. Sure enough, that it is really loose, not snug at all. Had hard time take it out but put new one on, it is smooth sail.

Today, I am going to attach GoPro cameras and monitor the under carriage.

Side note: I am deaf, which poses another problem, unable to hear certain noises, necessary to diagnose the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Update: I had my friend ride with me. He suspected flywheel being unbalance. Oh great...
 

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I would look other than the flywheel. I don't think I have ever seen a post about that being a problem.
DENNY
 

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If you had the dual mass flywheel, that could be a possibility if it puked a spring out. But the thing is about a flywheel being out of balance, is it would be evident at all speeds, even when sitting still. It's possible that it could amplify at certain speeds/engine rpm's because of harmonics, but I'd be doubtful it's the flywheel. It can easily be tested by revving the engine while sitting still.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yea, I had that experience before replace it with LUK.

Just few minutes ago, my hearing daughter rode with me. She said that it is nothing from transmission. However, there is subtle knocking noise, more from the front around tires. It is not loud but it is there. My next guess is to check the bearings and spindles. That is better than pulling the transmission for sure!
 

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If you have already replaced u-joints in the front axle then possible bad wheel bearings?

I feel like I am just throwing darts at the wall at this point.
 

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Your last dart (front axle u-joints) missed by a long way. :winking:

Notice in his signature he has a 2WD truck.
 

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Your last dart (front axle u-joints) missed by a long way. /forums/images/TheDieselStop_2015/smilies/tango_face_wink.png

Notice in his signature he has a 2WD truck.
I think I hit myself in the forehead with that dart.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I think that I found the culprit. I worked on the front passenger rotor. I can see outer bearing being seat nearly firm. I took out the cotton pin out and removed nut retainer off. Easily, I took the rotor off. I do not see anything wrong. I decided to check the inner bearing, it seem to be very loose, which I was expecting it to be tight, not all over the place. Only I think that I need special tool to pull the inner bearing off from the rotor itself.

After checking both inner and outer bearings, they seem to be okay and repacked and put back in the rotor. It seem to be tight. So it is not the culprit as thought in first place. While I am at it, I am going to check the shock absorber to see if it is still good.

After checking the shock absorber, it was shot. It would not go back up.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
When I finish post this previous post above, I was browsing around a bit on the browser. Then I went back to finish the task, I noticed that the shock absorber went back to what it was supposed to be, it seems to be very slow moving. I guess that it is still shot. It is weird to see that it moved back.
 

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When I finish post this previous post above, I was browsing around a bit on the browser. Then I went back to finish the task, I noticed that the shock absorber went back to what it was supposed to be, it seems to be very slow moving. I guess that it is still shot. It is weird to see that it moved back.
A real slow rebound is pretty typical of a dead shock. Have you checked the other side yet?

What brand of shocks will you replace with?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yea, both sides are shot. Nothing fancy for the shocks.

At least, I know that both sides, the bearings are still good.
 

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Maybe the engine is running rough at those rpm's and is being mistaken as a balance issue? I could see where a semi-defective CPS or an ICP could cause this.

An accurate code read would be worthwhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Maybe the engine is running rough at those rpm's and is being mistaken as a balance issue? I could see where a semi-defective CPS or an ICP could cause this.

An accurate code read would be worthwhile.
So I need to get new CPS? Not sure for ICP, is that one inside the valley, next to oil pump?

For the codes, I just checked for that moment ago with FORScan and it didn't get any code but P1111.
 

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So I need to get new CPS? Not sure for ICP, is that one inside the valley, next to oil pump?

For the codes, I just checked for that moment ago with FORScan and it didn't get any code but P1111.

I don't know if you need a new CPS or not. The quickest, easiest way to know is to replace yours with a new one.



A CPS is a $40 (or so) part. It's easy to install and everyone who drives these trucks needs to keep a spare in the glove box. A bad CPS can be intermittent in operation and can cause a variety of run issues.


The ICP is expensive, but is still easy to get to and install. It's located on the driver side near the front of the engine and threads into the high pressure oil rail. Search around and you'll find a pictorial diagram somewhere.

I'm out of the loop on scanners and trouble codes - perhaps bugman or someone else can chime in. A proper code reading would tell you if you have a high oil pressure problem.



Edit: I just looked and the CPS is $26 and the ICP is $139 at dieselo-rings .commmm.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I am using FORScan and it works fine with ELM327 module. What diagnostics part do I need to use to check?

I had CPS replaced once before and used to have extra one on hand. I am sure that I will need to know engine number for specific CPS, is that correct?

Will look into ICP this weekend.
 

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A 95 still just takes the older style CPS, they didn't change the contact materials until mid 96
 
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