Before 96.5 the contact material was different than what it was on the 96.5+ years. I have read where if you get the newer CPS to go into the older version that you could have problems as far as the contacts or corrosion on the contacts. Some have said that they have ran the newer one in the older trucks just fine but I doubt that they have ever pulled the connector apart and looked at it to see if there actually is or is not a problem.
I ran whatever riffraff sells as a motorcraft CPS in my 94.
For the contact material, I was fairly certain that was the icp sensor. Never heard of it with the CPS. But again, wont make any difference. With the CPS most just recommended the color of sensor. .
This article describes Galvanic Corrosion better than me but the key is to stop one of the three requirements, specifically the moisture. i.e.conductive liquid.
This is why it is recommended by many to apply dielectric grease when using an electrical component from early and late model years. The early ones were tin plate IIRC...and this was true for ICP as well as CPS and possibly all electrical sensors of that era.
The dielectric grease keeps the surfaces dry. Since this is the case, you don’t need to glob the entire surface area...just the rubber washer (gasket) which may be a purple rubber.
I don’t know how often the CPS pigtail is found to have moisture because I use dielectric on the rubber gasket since it makes pulling apart easier when my arm is contorted in that narrow space.
Ran into trouble yesterday. It felt like it ran out of fuel. I tried to switched to rear tank and still in trouble. I am not sure if I do have any fuel left in the rear tank. I checked the fuel bowl to see if it is out of fuel. It seem to be out of fuel because there is only little fuel left in the bowl. So I put fresh diesel in the bowl and able to get my truck back home. I decided to see if there is any fuel in the front tank. Sure, enough that there is more than a gallon in there as I am draining the tank. Maybe it is the bad fuel that causes the trouble. Much worse shaking than before during the normal driving. Will let y'all know more after this.
After drain the front tank, I noticed that there is strange brown stuff inside the clear hose and i am able to get some of it. It is some kind of sticky glum? Sort of like slime...yea, that's what it look/feel like. Wonder if anyone would know what it is?
Seem that there was about 3 gallon left in the front. Now I am working on the rear tank, seem that there is some fuel left, too.
After putting new clean fuel, I decided to replace the fuel filter. I didn't check its condition until I went to the gas station. I noticed the engine stumbling again, similar to last Thursday. So I decided to check fuel filter and found it seem to be full of same brown stuff. I didn't know what it was until Bugman mentioned it. Hopefully, that it will no longer being a problem. I put Power Service Biocide in the fuel during the fill up. Surprised me that it doesn't take that much to put in the tank since it is only 19 gallon in front. I think that I put 2 oz. More than enough for sure.
Uh-oh... that many filters? I need to drop the tank soon or later, to fix the fuel meter problem, anyway. It is way off. I think that it is the fuel gauge inside the tank being bad, sending wrong measurement. Possible that it is the slime that caused the problem?
It was less than a week that I had to replace the fuel filter. I did the search and couldn't find the correct part number to replace the fuel sender inside the tank. I am not sure if the sender had gone bad or the slime had messed up the sender until I pull it out of the tank after dropping it.
Drove 90 miles and I checked the fuel filter. It is little dirty. Not too bad. First one was the I replaced two weeks ago. Second one, just pulled from fuel bowl. Third one, new unused filter. Thoughts?
Been driving my truck two to four times during the week, to my work and back home. I am going to check fuel filter and DCA tomorrow. Will let y'all know more. Once in a while, engine shut down all of the sudden. I suspect CPS is flaky. Will replace it tomorrow. Have new one on hand.
Other than that, I am monitoring the vibration/stumble. When I change the gears, I pushed the clutch pedal in, it still vibrates. I would say that the transmission is not the issue but something else.
Ok, so here it is.
My truck was under powered. I replaced several injectors. It ran somewhat better for a few days.
I cleared the fuel lines and replaced the filter and rail pump.
It won't start now! I don't have any clew what to do next.
I have a 97 f350 7.3 with 180,000 miles. I am having to replace the flex plate that failed. What should I be looking for in my choice I have seen a lot of info about some the ring gear is not welded on or is not straight any recommendations would be appreciated
Ok guys I pulled my inner cooler whose￼￼s, turbo intake whose ￼off to clean topside of engine. I sprayed it down with degreaser and lightly sprayed it all￼￼ clean now my truck runs like ****! It won’t rev over two grand￼. Help
I have a 96 f-350 it will start up and run about 5 minutes then die no warning. It will not start right back up the wait to start light wont come on. If I let it set about 10 minutes the wait to start light will come back on and start again. It does this continuously