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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 92 f-350. It currently has a c6 in it, but came factory with an e40d. I have a line on a 95 Zf 5 speed from a powerstroke and all the goodies to make it work. There shouldn't be any problems bolting this up, right? Same bell housing I assume?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Trans will fit. The fly wheel will not work. crank is different. You can get a single mass fly wheel kit. I got a real good one from napa . ther are cheaper kits though. If you use your truck like I use mine I wouldn't cheap out on the clutch. Napa part#1107225 $460

I think the swing pedals should work! The manual trans set up is shorter than an e40d but it might be close to a c6. you might have to mess with drive shafts.

I got my zf out of an 89 and put in a 94 so the frames where a little different. mainly where the crossmember holes are. You should be alright with 95to 92 swap
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. I am not getting a flywheel or clutch with this, so I was just going to buy a SMF conversion set. I was not about to put in an old clutch anyway, don't want to have to take it out twice!

I am getting everything but the clutch and driveshafts out of the donor truck. Hope it goes well and works out good. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
All right. I have almost all the parts to start on this conversion, but I have a question for someone who has done this.

The donor truck was a different wheel base, so the driveshaft was different. Should I go on the hunt for a drive shaft at salvage yards( I have already done this, without much success) or, should I go to a drivshaft shop and have one fabbed up? I have never done anything with a custom drive shaft, so that would be new territory for me.
 

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did this to my '91 van- SMF clutch kit, used the stock rear trans mount,crossmember, had to add a center driveshaft support bearing.. used a F250 drive shaft, had to shorten the front and lengthen the back I had to add a clutch pedal and mount a clutch master cyl in the floor, you have a place built into the fire wall.. I just moved the cross member forward to match the shorter 5spd ... you might have to mess w the rear U joint-- some are 1 1/8" and some are 1 1/16"..... I have a 1 1/8" drive shaft and a 1 1/16" rear axle , also known as a " ford special" good luck.. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
About how much did it cost to get your driveshafts customized? It doesn't really matter, I have to get it done. I just want to make sure I don't get ripped off. Thanks for the info.
 

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You should be able to find a drive shaft to fit the front. Call your salvage yards. The stock one should be able to be shortend. If you have drive shafts that are to long it is cheaper to have them shortend. can't say how much it will cost, because I've always done my self. If you have a welder and the know how it is pretty easy to get right. If I had to guess though, I'd say about $200 for both shafts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What is the "best" transmission fluid to use in these? I don't want to spend too much, but I want something that will last well, and keep noise to a minimum.
 

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ATF is what is recomended. But It dosn't seem to hold up. Ther is some discussion on here about oil to put in a ZF. I am going to try using Hytan or a hydraulic trans fluid. It is what is in hyraulicly operated transmissins in tractors. ATF is about a 5 wieght I think. Hytran is more somewhere between 10 15, and is much like ATF in its make up. The other thing you can do is to get finned covers to replace the PTO covers. It will help cool the trans oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
4 Quarts will fill it up?

I have read on other places people overfill them for whatever reason. Any need to do this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Picked up 4 quarts of royal perple ATF today. Hoping it will hold up for a while. I also have the new driveshafts in with all new u-joints and carrier bearing. Getting closer!
 

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When I did the swap from the t19 to the zf I used a Napa single mass works great and the shop that re built the trans said to use 10 30 weight non detergent motor oil to keep the gear roll over noise down have 30k on it now still almost no noise at all it works great make sure to not over tighten the drive shaft u bolts or u will break the u joint and destroy your new drive shaft learned that the hard way
 

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I didn't see a mention of the firewall flex issues. It would be a good time to add the reinforcement plate that is reproduced that was at one point offered by Ford to fix the flex issues. My 88 had a ZF5 stock, and I can feel the firewall flex all over the place. :)
 

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I am trying to do the opposite. I have a 5 speed manual, and I'm trying to go to a c6. I have been having a horrible time trying to find the correct flywheel. I have a 9 bolt crank and all the ones the local auto stores could order was a 6 bolt. I finally ordered what seems like the correct one online, but it seems to need a spacer behind it to clear the block. Has anyone heard of this? Did your 7.3 w/ c6 have a spacer behind the flywheel? And if so does anyone know where I can get one, I haven't had any luck on internet searches. Thanks.
 

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I'm almost 100% certain that there is a spacer between the flywheel and flexplate, it's a relatively common setup when using an automotive automatic & bellhousing adapter with an engine with an SAE bolt pattern. As far as where to get them, the first place I'd try is the Ford dealership and then the parts houses. As far as the spacer itself, maybe eBay? A Ford or Navistar dealer may have them, too.
 

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C6 on 6.9s definitely had a spacer in there then a small flange that acted as a washer for the flywheel bolts. I'm going by memory but its pretty good, did a pile of rear main seals on the 6.9/7.3 idi while they were still under warranty.
I have a recently purchased 88 with a 7.3 /C6 I might be able to check for example but we got a lot of early snow here and I can't even get under it until we get some melt. :icon_rolleyes:

I hate winter, I'm a mechanic.:no:
 
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