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Discussion Starter #1
Well i know it has been asked maybe a million times but can seem to fine a tread thats specific to my symptoms.

06 f350 6.0
Truck runs like a charm just replaced all 8 injectors, new stadpipes and plugs hpop was done last year. Drive the truck for about an hour while monitoring icp psi(1200-1400) fcim volt (49) and ipr duty cycle(29-46) while traveling in town when all the sudden truck just shuts off. Sat for about 10 minutes and started right up. Thinking maybe a high press. Leak i unplug the oil temp switch to engage the cooling fan full blast to get home temp needle drop to about 1/4 way up got near my house and decide to just keep driving just to verify about another hour later samething just shut off waited 10 minutes and walaa starts right up. Im at a lost and have a pissed off wife complaining im spending to much money on this truck. Not concern on saving the marriage but do want to save the truck so pleaseeeeeeeeee i need help
 

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What is the ICP reading and IPR valve % when it shuts off and is cranked over and will not start? What is FICM main power and FICM LOGIC power when it will not run? I'm really less suspiciosu of sudden quit for loss of HP oil supply for an extended run and then starts in 10 min. Leaks in HPO system don't come back to run state in 10 minutes as it takes oil much longer to cool enough to raise oil pressure. FICM or FICM power relay may be your problem.
 

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FICM (or FICM relay as stated above) and IPR valve (electrical failure of valve actuator or the wiring to it) are among the most common reasons for shutting down suddenly on the road.

Get something that reads codes well (recommend ForScan Lite on an iPhone).
 

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Jimmy when its shuts off I happen to be looking at the tuner screen and the ipr % was at 28 and icp was around 800-900 psi as i had just let off the throttle. I did notice that while cranking ipr would jump to 85% but the icp would be short 100 psi than requested. The weird thing is that when i run it at home just idling letting it warm up (to temperatures that the fan would kick in to cool things down) i can shut it off once oil temp reaches 210 and turn it back on with no issues but i go for a drive and starts this bs after a while of driving
 

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Pull the tuner off to make sure that's not what's causing the problem.
The reported IPR is only what the PCM is telling the IPR to do, not what it's actually doing. The IPR coil could be opening as it heats up and remaking the connection when it cools off. The way to check for that is to wait till it warms up and dies, and check the resistance across the coil. If it show open circuit and then shows ~5-20 ohms (IIRC) after cooling down, you've found the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pull the tuner off to make sure that's not what's causing the problem.
The reported IPR is only what the PCM is telling the IPR to do, not what it's actually doing. The IPR coil could be opening as it heats up and remaking the connection when it cools off. The way to check for that is to wait till it warms up and dies, and check the resistance across the coil. If it show open circuit and then shows ~5-20 ohms (IIRC) after cooling down, you've found the culprit.
I am going to check el the relays and wiring harness today havent had a chance. Im going to test it and take my meter and hopefully it doesn’t shut off but if it does im able to pull some where safe to check the ipr. Last thing to check would be the tuner. Fingers crossed hopefully one of this checks finds the problem
 

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The proper way to troubleshoot is to return the tuning to stock first and then test. That doesn't mean you have to do it, just that it is recommended. You may or may not have codes, but the wise thing (as recommended previously) is to check for them first - and not with a tuner. There isn't a tuner out there that reads codes thoroughly. Again - you don't have to do it, but it may help keep you from "driving it until it fails while driving". I always hated that troubleshooting approach. Idling it for an hour (+) to see if it will die when heated up is way better than being on the road knowing it will die on you "somewhere". You could even put a heat gun on it (IPR and FICM both).
 

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The proper way to troubleshoot is to return the tuning to stock first and then test. That doesn't mean you have to do it, just that it is recommended. You may or may not have codes, but the wise thing (as recommended previously) is to check for them first - and not with a tuner. There isn't a tuner out there that reads codes thoroughly. Again - you don't have to do it, but it may help keep you from "driving it until it fails while driving". I always hated that troubleshooting approach. Idling it for an hour (+) to see if it will die when heated up is way better than being on the road knowing it will die on you "somewhere". You could even put a heat gun on it (IPR and FICM both).
I have had it at home just idling for a few hours and one it gets hot enough to were the fan kicks in i have shut it off and re-start and it starts just fine with just a few revolutions of the starter. This is whats taking me for a loop that its just when im driving
 

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So i lost mu job Thursday thanks to the covid19. So I decided to just take the truck to the dealer and come to find out that the turbo is bypassing oil therefore the engine was low which is what was causing it to shut off. Never thought to check the oil since i just did an oil change
 

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Thanks for posting, but could you explain a little more? I do not understand what is meant by "the turbo bypassing oil".

Do you mean that the turbo bearings were leaking oil?
 

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Yeah, just an odd way of putting it. Seems as though there would have been mention of exhaust smoke since the oil had recently been changed and then (quickly I assume) lost enough to supposedly cause the engine to shut down. It would take at least 3 quarts lost to impact engine operation wouldn't it (probably more actually)? I am having trouble buying it as the only problem. I would also have expected mention of a turbo re-build or replacement being needed.
 

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Thanks for posting, but could you explain a little more? I do not understand what is meant by "the turbo bypassing oil".

Do you mean that the turbo bearings were leaking oil?
Yes it is leaking oil into the intercooler which im lucky I didn’t have a run away so once the engine was low enough it would cut out. I now have an intercooler full of oil
 

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Yeah, just an odd way of putting it. Seems as though there would have been mention of exhaust smoke since the oil had recently been changed and then (quickly I assume) lost enough to supposedly cause the engine to shut down. It would take at least 3 quarts lost to impact engine operation wouldn't it (probably more actually)? I am having trouble buying it as the only problem. I would also have expected mention of a turbo re-build or replacement being needed.
Yeah i know what you mean they offer to do the job but thanks to the covid i just got let go from my job so i just took to truck home i made a few phone calls to find a turbo and do it my self. Im just waiting on response and prices before i make the move.
 

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Yeah i know what you mean they offer to do the job but thanks to the covid i just got let go from my job so i just took to truck home i made a few phone calls to find a turbo and do it my self. Im just waiting on response and prices before i make the move.
I have a stock 03 turbo that is in good condition with very minimal shaft play that i would sell you for cheap. I would also buy a kc rebuild kit for $85 before you drop it in.
 
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