[maxrules]

I'll be making a business trip to Buffalo, New York in about two weeks. I've been there before with my truck and all was well, but I sure hate leaving my truck unattended in that jungle. These trucks are so easy to steal. A friend of mine had his Super Duty stolen with nothing more than a screwdriver. His was recovered undamaged but with one 6x6 ATV missing.
I am thinking the best and easiest theft prevention would be to pull a fuse from the truck so it would be impossible to start. Has anyone done this move? Any ideas on the best fuse to pull? I'm thinking starter or injector fuse. I'll look it over and see what I can find.

 

[JimJoe]

Did it, too. Think that's a good idea. As long as you do not chose the wiper fuse. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

Jim

 

[ryaneverk2]

Try pulling fuse #30, which is one that gets shorted by the fuel heater but also protects the PCM, so you get no Wait to Start light, and even more, NO START! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif

 

[Oneof6]

Pretty easy, just pull the IDM and Starter relays. Drop the front fuse panel cover down and take several relays with you. Unlikely that that a thief will show up with a selection of relays. I wouldn't do this habitually as you will loosen up the fit in the fuse panel for the relay connections. If you are looking for a fuse type lock out, get a Cyclops anti-theft remote. Lots of things that you can do, unplug the CPS would also do it. You really need three layers of security, an alarm all that is a noisemaker to start the clock on the thief to hurry up, a physical barrier like an Autoloc 2000 not one of those silly red clubs a three year old could remove in 5 seconds, and a relay lock out like the Cyclops. If an expert mechanic were to show up with plenty of time to diagnose the problem then there is nothing that you can disable that he could not re-enable. However, if a typical thief were that smart and capable then he would have a real job. IMO, truck thief = horse thief, should go back to hanging on the spot but only those that you miss with the 12 gage. 106

 

[twobit]

Unplug the CPS (kinda hard to reach though)

 

[Tallavana]

build a starter kill relay and hide the switch under the dash or in the glove box or some place like that. A relay will cost about $5 and a switch $1 or so. You can buy a relay harness with the wires attached if you dont keep the connectors around. Its the same thing that a security system uses without the alarm. Cut the starter wire under the dash. Connect the key side to pin 30, the starter side to pin 87. Tap into a "true" ignition lead (thats an ignition wire that has 12v on even while the starter is engaged)or a constant 12v source and connect to pin 85. Run a wire from pin 86 through your switch and to ground. When ever your switch is open, the relay wont trigger and will not send voltage to the starter. If you understand how a relay works, you can also wire it up to use existing switches in the truck (ex: having to press the brake or turn on the fog lights or press the metric button on the overhead or an unused upfitter switch, etc)

 

[DoubleMeat]

Couldn't you just jump the selenoid with a screwdriver?

Maybe a switch to something equivilant to the Coil of a gasoline engine? That way they can crank till the battery's dead, and still get no combustion.

Would that also be inline with fuse 30?

Or maybe something that shuts down' the injectors?

 

[NCHornet]

I agree the Cyclops is a pretty cool device, you replace one of your relays with it and you have a remote contol unit with you. You park the truck mash the button and the relay is disabled, come back hit the button again and it will start just fine. I was going to pick one of these up until I got my Brite Box Turbosaver, which came with a kill switch feature. If you want a turbo timer and a kill switch I suggest you look at the diesel turbo lifesaver by Brite Box, sold thru dieselsite.com

 

[Oneof6]

[ QUOTE ]
Unplug the CPS (kinda hard to reach though)

[/ QUOTE ]

Not really, I can stand on my short 2' ladder, the one I use to wash my front windshield off, reach over from the top under the belt and unplug it from the top. Not something that I woudn't want to do every day but the poster was looking for quick effective solutions. Or you could put a fusable link in the CPS line, or a cut out relay, and kill it there. For more permanent solutions back to the three layers of security, alarm, wheel lock, relay lock outs. 106

 

[maxrules]

The manual says to disconnect the battery before pulling any of those fuses under the hood. I doubt that is really nessasary but I'll stay away from those for now. If a PCM fuse is pulled, will that reset any settings? Which is really the best one to pull under the dash?
Where can I find this cyclops remote thing? You guys have aftermarket connections like I've never seen anywhere else!

 

[ryaneverk2]

[ QUOTE ]
Where can I find this cyclops remote thing?

[/ QUOTE ]

http://www.emergingent.com/retail/cyclops/index.html

If you do a search on Cyclops, you'll find some threads that've discussed it in the past. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/warmsmile.gif

 

[Tallavana]

given enough time, you can bypass any security system. If someone trys to steal your car, they are not going to spend more than a minute trying figure out what youve done. If they cant get it to start quick, they will move on. The cyclops is a neat piece. Very simple and effective. The only drawback is that it doesnt have that little flashing red light on the dashboard. That flashing light is more of a theft deterant than the alarm itself. It also requires you to carry two remotes now. Yes you can still jump the starter relay. I was just telling you how to make a security system starter kill for $10 and about fifteen minutes of work. You can get as elaborate as you want, but aside from physically removing parts of the vehicle that are needed for it to run, you cant make it theift proof.

 

[opie1knobe]

You could always unbolt the tires and take them with you, thus eliminating someone stealing your wheels or stealing your truck.

I personally would go with a starter kill relay and a hidden switch like Tallavanna Said. If someone wants your truck bad enough consider it gone. They will steal it and leave your expensive alarm sitting in the parking space. Most crooks however want to get it and Go, no delays, if they cant get it quick most will leave (probably tearing up the seats and dash along the way just because they are pissed) Perhaps the best idea is let them steal the truck, that is what insurance is for.

 

[94_turbo]

let them steal it??? i like oneof6's idea better--be a whole lot less thieves if they thought they might get shot DEAD--no lawyer problems-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif

 

[Pappy19]

Hey, if I had a 6.0, I would leave the windows and doors unlocked.

 

[Roger_007]

I have often heard of someone placing a toggle switch someplace to be used for that time when you need some extra security.

 

[Fat Diesel]

I've got a full-flow ball valve on my fuel system. I can turn off the fuel and the thief won't get far, most likely stalling it in the road somewhere.

 

[canucklehead]

resurrecting an oldie but a goodie!! I have a 2001 PSD. I want to do exactly this: pull a fuse to disable my truck while it is parked until May. It's basically my motorhome with camper on it all the time, parked under cover in winter but easy to get at. I go start it up for 15-30 minutes once per month.

A tow truck can also be used by an experienced thief, so there's only so much you can do. I'm trying to prevent the unsophisticated opportunist since these are so easy to steal. I'd like to disable by pulling a fuse or relay or both. Would the under-the-hood panel have anything, or the interior panel be better?

Earlier someone mentioned fuse #30, and another said IDM and starter relays. Are these easy to locate? Are the relays the same or can they get mixed up on re-install?