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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I really need help. I cracked the thermostat housing last night and its a discontinued part. The place I found does not have the housing. I got the ford part number however. E9TZ8592G can anyone help me out. My last resort is to weld it but we all know the pain welding cast iron is.
 

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Have you called Tousley? When I talked to them, they were able to search ford dealers in all of the US to see if anybody had one on the shelf. I was looking for the fuel heater "O" rings and they found one in Texas. Worth the call IMHO.
 

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are they a ford dealer or? the neighbor is gonna weld it tomorrow but Id rather it be a new on or have a new one om hand.
Yes they are and a site sponsor. I have talked to the parts dept. on the phone once and ordered an intake manifold for an '03 Expedition last month on-line and the customer service CAN'T BE BEAT!!!!
 

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Have you tried a wreckers locally........ way cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok guys, We have rewelded the Housing back together and ground it flush. Im stilling getting a leak from it. I have tried 1 gasket with no RTV. I have tried doubling gasketing it. I am not trying 1 gasket with RTV on both sides and letting it sit over night. I replaced the thermostat with the correct International one. I can not think of why I am not getting a positive seal
 

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I would figure the surface would have to be pretty flat. Since water can seep through the thinnest crack, unevenness could contribute to a low pressure spot.

If it fails again, try this. Take the housing and a full sheet of sandpaper. Rub the surface across it and inspect for flatness. Using a medium grit you should be able to achieve a flat surface. I have done this although it is time consuming.
 

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Another option would be to use blue RTV alone. If you are extremely cautious and use it per the directions it will probably work. (Most especially noting that you tighten until the stuff STARTS to squeeze out and wait for it to dry.) This makes future removal more difficult than the use of a gasket but not amazingly so in this case, I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another option would be to use blue RTV alone. If you are extremely cautious and use it per the directions it will probably work. (Most especially noting that you tighten until the stuff STARTS to squeeze out and wait for it to dry.) This makes future removal more difficult than the use of a gasket but not amazingly so in this case, I would think.
Drinky, I had one gasket RTVed to the housing and then rtved the other sided to the block. I finger tightened and let sit over night. I torqued to final spec this morning and filled with coolant. I managed to spill coolant and cant get a positive result on if its sealed. Im running to the parts store to barrow a pressure tester on my lunch break. Will will find out shortly if its sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pressure tested it and don't see any coolant leaking from round the housing, all though system is not full. I pressurized it up to 13lbs and let it sit for 10 minutes. I have a minor leak as indicated by the gauge and noticed that there was coolant leaking from the bottom of the radiator. after pulling the fan shroud I see what appears to be coolant leaking from the radiator its self. Anyone use any kind of leak stop? I can not justify putting a $350 radiator in the truck when I am uncertain that the weld job on the thermostat housing is A) not leaking B) wont break. Its a discontinued part that in a weeks worth of look I can not find one any where. I really do now want to get rid of my rig!
 

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I always had good luck with Alumaseal, in a pinch Copenhagen works too, but not as permanent

Did you try International for the part? I have purchased a lot of parts from them for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I always had good luck with Alumaseal, in a pinch Copenhagen works too, but not as permanent

Did you try International for the part? I have purchased a lot of parts from them for mine.
I have the Ford part number, I talked to my local IH dealer and they told me that Ford determins the radiator set up. They have a housing that might work with fords radiator but its $748 and a new radiator is about $300-$500 dollars I really can justify 1200 to have it run. I bought it for 5 grand and have easily put another 5 into her.
 
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