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ok guys I'm looking at a 08 f250 6.4 with right around 100k.currently I own a non studded 6.0 my ? is I have heard many different things from these motors are great to they are worse than the 6.0. what should I be on the lookout for?
 

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ok guys I'm looking at a 08 f250 6.4 with right around 100k.currently I own a non studded 6.0 my ? is I have heard many different things from these motors are great to they are worse than the 6.0. what should I be on the lookout for?
Some people have good luck with them, some have bad. Maintenance is a big thing with these. So X2 for what fatboy said on finding service records. I'd own another 6.4 in a heart beat if I could.
 

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X2 and run away from excessive engine mods. the more stock the more betta..
you don't want somebody's [email protected]%h...
'engine mods', absolutely... bigger snails, higher volume injectors, duel bowls... all that jazz... represents an engine that has been ran hard, and not in it's intended purpose.

but....

Better intake? no problem... Can't blame someone for falling prey to all the mumbo jumbo about increased mileage an lower EGT's...

CAC Pipe replacement/upgrade? No problem... the stock pipe is seriously crunched where it passes through the radiator support, which limits/reduces flow, and can allow assisting heat sink to occur on the intercooler... I would tow in hot environments and after a few hours the IC would heat up and not do anything approximating its job... Replaced the OE CAC, and never had an issue again- plus EGT's dropped close to 100*... speaking of IC's:

CCV reroute: very good thing... hopefully to atmosphere after a trap/filter... no oil and combustion gasses spray on your snails (it's corrosive), no covering the interior of your IC with same (limits it's ability to cool the air and straight up obstructs some passages), and no attacking the exhaust with particles containing zinc (that react with catalysts)... no oil that collects and causes hot spots inside your down pipes, causing them to burn through and leak... it's a huge +plus+, and the longer its been non the truck, the better...

Deletes: so long as the truck doesn't demonstrate other issues related to being ran hard, I'd want a used truck that was deleted as early as possible...

extra filters- such as a coolant filter, a aux transmission filter (after market), and an oil bypass filter show to me that the previous owner had concern about longevity and care... they are a huge plus to look for in modifications present...

I wouldn't be afraid if the truck had traction bars, especially if they are quality traction bars (and the only two that work right and do what's expected are PMF and OUO bars)... these cease axle wrap, and still allow full articulation of suspension.. they protect pinion housings and ujoints, along with transmissions... if your rig is a tow rig, quality traction bars are dang near a requirement by my reckoning, and anyone who says they aren't has never towed 'with' them, and speaks only out of theory... sorry, but these things create far too much torque for four anchors (shackles from leaf springs to frame) to attach the spinning power to the truck....


since I've written this much:

take it for a long spin with a monitor attached... you'll want to see your coolant and oil temperatures within 5-7 degrees of each other... watch your transmission temperature, you'll want to see between 165* (where the internal thermostatic bypass opens) and 185*, unloaded, and at highway speeds.

the only time I believe in wide open throttle runs is during a test drive... the ONLY... observe the level of coolant in the degas, and make sure it's filled to the cold fill line- make two or three WOT runs, for at least five seconds each... if coolant escapes, walk away from the truck... it's likely got blown head gaskets, or the heads are floating on stretched torque to yield bolts allowing vent into cooling system at max cylinder pressure.. while doing this, watch the boost gauge... it should build and 'feel' apparent as it does.... instantaneous power with each psi displayed... if it lags, there may be issues... if it builds but you aren't gong anywhere, there are issues.. if it doesn't build pretty quickly and responsively, there are issues.

collect and send off an oil sample... look for wear metals... the type of metal will tell you about internal conditions of various parts... iron: bearings... nickle/chromonium: valves... aluminum: pistons... ect... this should only take three or so days using Blackstone if you UPS the sample to them.. also be on the lookout for fuel dilution.

color of coolant: not huge, but a good indicator- if it's gold, then the owner followed fords advice.. if it's green or orange, they didn't.. walk... if it's red, chances are the owner knew a thing or two about a thing or two, and was taking good care of it...

take the oil fill cap off, put it back into the hole but unthreaded, and start truck.. if it wobbles, it isn't a big deal... let it sit there and rattle/wobble away before threading it back in... if it's launched or blown off the hole, pick it up, thread it back on, kill the truck, and walk away... excess blow by is a good demonstrator of hidden issues...

that ought to get you started....
 
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