[FLEx7.3]

I found this truck that I’m thinking of buying. There’s no rust underneath, and it’s completely stock. 300k miles, 4x4, 7.3.

The only rust is on the roof. Pics attached. Thoughts?

 

[DENNY]

I found this truck that I’m thinking of buying. There’s no rust underneath, and it’s completely stock. 300k miles, 4x4, 7.3.

The only rust is on the roof. Pics attached. Thoughts?
View attachment 158714 View attachment 158715 View attachment 158716 View attachment 158717
View attachment 158718 View attachment 158719

That does not look like a truck roof. DENNY

 

[klhansen]

That does not look like a truck roof. DENNY

Excursion? Sorta a truck.

Where is this truck located? Rust belt or just sun. It looks like the paint on the roof baked away and is mainly surface rust. Is there any evidence of moisture inside? Figure $2000 or so to remove the rust and repaint the roof. Maybe more for the rack. I figure pretty much any time a shop picks up a paint gun, it's going to be $1000 right there.

 

[DENNY]

If you pulled the rack it would be easy to sand down, primer, and paint with rattle can. Once done fill any holes with threaded screw and aircraft nut RTV/O-ring/rubber washer of choice to seal it. This will require pulling headliner but should get the job done pretty cheap and should last for years. If you want to keep the rack I would pull it, sandblast and power coat the mail rails. DENNY

 

[79jasper]

Seen several people have the top linexed.

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[pitstop]

If you pulled the rack it would be easy to sand down, primer, and paint with rattle can. Once done fill any holes with threaded screw and aircraft nut RTV/O-ring/rubber washer of choice to seal it. This will require pulling headliner but should get the job done pretty cheap and should last for years. If you want to keep the rack I would pull it, sandblast and power coat the mail rails. DENNY

Reminds me to work on aunt's Wagoneer with a rusted roof and probably stuck railings. The hailstorm did some good damage before being parked under the tree. We'll just finish installing the shocks and nitto ridge grappler tires on the Wrangler before we can clear the garage.

 

[DENNY]

Line-x would be fine if it was not black. You still have to prep and prime. once you get rust under line-X it will lift.
DENNY

 

[79jasper]

Line-x would be fine if it was not black. You still have to prep and prime. once you get rust under line-X it will lift.
DENNY

Right, you still have to correct the rust.
It's not 1980 anymore, you can get it colored. Lol

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[FLEx7.3]

Thanks for the input everyone.

I bought the Excursion. Roof rust aside, the PO had receipts for 14 years of Ford maintenance, every 3 months, regardless of mileage. It runs perfectly and it’s in spectacular shape for having 300k miles.

I’ll be removing the rails and stripping the top over the next few days to the bare metal, throwing some ospho on whatever is left, priming it, and putting black Raptor on the between the rails, and from the windshield to the rear hinges. I have had good experiences with that stuff.

The trim is also getting a black Raptor coating so it’ll all match. Black and green - it’ll look ok I think.

 

[Big Horn]

I have had good luck with the Ospho myself, and have used epoxy filler primer by PPG to fill in light pitting, it should do an outstanding job locking in that surface.....and preparing for your base coats, and of course using a quality paint respirator is a must! Show us some pictures when done👍

 

[Doc222]

well as long as there is no sign of leaks on the head liner. What did it cost? These X's can fetch a lot of $$$$$$$ today. My wife will never give away here baby. its a 2003 7.3 X limited 4x4. has just over 265k. Hers is very clean no rust original paint, many upgrades. Though AZ sun has started to show, but still good enough for now. It is a great SUV like nothing else.

 

[klhansen]

Good on you for tackling the job yourself. That sounds like a good plan.
I have heard on other forums that some epoxy primers don't like ospho under them. Be sure to get the scoop from the primer manufacturer. I would definitely use an epoxy primer. Ideally any pitting should be sandblasted to completely remove the rust hiding in the bottom of the pits. If you don't get it all, it will come back and lift your bedliner like Denny said.

 

[Big Horn]

Ospho recommends after activation and drying time to wash and rinse removing the residue prior to painting. I know a lot of guys who don’t- but checking with the manufacturer isn’t a bad idea- they like to keep the chemicals similar.

 

[FLEx7.3]

well as long as there is no sign of leaks on the head liner. What did it cost? These X's can fetch a lot of $$$$$$$ today. My wife will never give away here baby. its a 2003 7.3 X limited 4x4. has just over 265k. Hers is very clean no rust original paint, many upgrades. Though AZ sun has started to show, but still good enough for now. It is a great SUV like nothing else.

I picked it up for $8k. It’s is remarkably good shape, too. I think the turbo is showing it’s age, but that’s an easy fix. Otherwise, it just needs new hoses and a new belt, idlers, and I’ll probably swap the water pump for a t444e and put a new fan clutch in it - at 300k the one that’s on it is probably toast.

There’s no fuel in the coolant, so I figure the cups are still good. And the injectors all seem to work well enough - it isn’t running rough. No blow by. I’m going to change over to the purple cps and see if it smooths out.