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I need to replace the throttle cable that broke at the pedal. I looked under the hood and at first glance it looks like a lot of stuff in the way at the firewall. Any suggestions are appreciated.
 

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First of all, I would only use the OEM part, # E9TZ-9A758-U. I've tried cables from just about everyone else and they're all short, so that your foot hits the firewall well before you run out of throttle travel.

If you're doing it in a truck it's actually very easy, especially if you have 2-3 feet of 1/4" drive extensions. First, remove the air cleaner. Next, pop the linkage off at the accelerator pedal and injector pump. don't forget to remove it from the bracket near the pump. Then, using a 1/4" drive 8mm socket remove the 2 screws holding the cable bracket to the firewall. Fish the cable out from whatever it's routed through, and install the new cable's ball socket on the pump lever stud. Click the cable into the bracket near the pump, rounded side downward, then run the other end the same way as the old cable, fish it through the opening in the firewall, and install the bushing & cable into the accelerator pedal. Now install the bracket on the firewall using the 2 screws from the old cable, and you're all set. Check for full travel and binding, and replace the air cleaner if everything checks out.
 

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First of all, I would only use the OEM part, # E9TZ-9A758-U. I've tried cables from just about everyone else and they're all short, so that your foot hits the firewall well before you run out of throttle travel.

If you're doing it in a truck it's actually very easy, especially if you have 2-3 feet of 1/4" drive extensions. First, remove the air cleaner. Next, pop the linkage off at the accelerator pedal and injector pump. don't forget to remove it from the bracket near the pump. Then, using a 1/4" drive 8mm socket remove the 2 screws holding the cable bracket to the firewall. Fish the cable out from whatever it's routed through, and install the new cable's ball socket on the pump lever stud. Click the cable into the bracket near the pump, rounded side downward, then run the other end the same way as the old cable, fish it through the opening in the firewall, and install the bushing & cable into the accelerator pedal. Now install the bracket on the firewall using the 2 screws from the old cable, and you're all set. Check for full travel and binding, and replace the air cleaner if everything checks out.


Nice write up!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
First of all, I would only use the OEM part, # E9TZ-9A758-U. I've tried cables from just about everyone else and they're all short, so that your foot hits the firewall well before you run out of throttle travel.

If you're doing it in a truck it's actually very easy, especially if you have 2-3 feet of 1/4" drive extensions. First, remove the air cleaner. Next, pop the linkage off at the accelerator pedal and injector pump. don't forget to remove it from the bracket near the pump. Then, using a 1/4" drive 8mm socket remove the 2 screws holding the cable bracket to the firewall. Fish the cable out from whatever it's routed through, and install the new cable's ball socket on the pump lever stud. Click the cable into the bracket near the pump, rounded side downward, then run the other end the same way as the old cable, fish it through the opening in the firewall, and install the bushing & cable into the accelerator pedal. Now install the bracket on the firewall using the 2 screws from the old cable, and you're all set. Check for full travel and binding, and replace the air cleaner if everything checks out.
Thanks for the info. Once I knew where to go it did make it easy even though I only had a short extension.
 

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The long extension(s) make it easier since you can work standing up at the front of the truck, you just have to be careful not to drop the screws because they never hit the ground LOL.
 

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The long extension(s) make it easier since you can work standing up at the front of the truck, you just have to be careful not to drop the screws because they never hit the ground LOL.
LOL, you must be one tall dude! I have to use an old bed pillow and lay it across the hood latch and radiator. I climb up on a small 4 step ladder and lay right on top of the engine. I just replaced my cable yesterday and the glow plugs in about 2 hrs. (Sequencer is next). Posted procedure is right on...great write up. Old cable was binding and the outer core had pulled out of the bulkhead fitting.
 

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Nope, I'm only 5'11". But the length of my arms (not ape length LOL) plus 2 feet or so of extensions is enough to reach the firewall.
 

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I gave our local heavy duty Ford place (Whited Ford, Auburn ME) a call to check price & availability and they'll get back with me in the morning. Another place you could try is Grappone Ford in Bow, NH; they can generally get anything and I think they'll take card numbers over the phone & ship parts.
 

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I just got off the phone with our local Ford place and that part number is nationally available for about $75. That may be dealer cost, which is what we pay through work.
 

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I just searched for "E9TZ9A758U" on eBay and found 6 of the cables, 5 going for $58 + $8 shipping. They're all advertised as OEM parts.
 

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just did this, used a cable I pulled of a 94 along with the fuel pedal, both fit my 88 perfectly, was the fastest thing I've ever don on that truck, easier then an oil change even! love it, no more bending pedal and binding throttle!
 

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FYI Tousley Ford in MN has the throttle cable E9TZ9A758U for $53.01 plus shipping.
 

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I did this last year. Do not buy after market parts as they have plastic ends and are universal in fit, meaning they are longer than the OEM part. The longer cable made the accelerator very stiff. It was hard to hold the pedal down driving any distance. Got the right OEM part from the local ford dealer. Worked like a champ. Also the plastic end that snaps to the ip end broke when installing the after market cable. Regardless of cost get the right OEM parts for this.

Great write up!

Thanks
Daniel
 

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Just installed the Pioneer cable from autozone (part#CA-8683 ) under $20 perfect fit and works perfectly on my 1993 7.3 ID crew cab dually.
My recommendation don't waste your money letting Ford rape you for $110... even the guy at the Ford parts counter rolled his eyes and thought it was a rip off.
 
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