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My apologies...
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Short Stuff,

Don't sweat it!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Don't get me wrong, I'm totally OK with the CC issue and mine both being talked about in an attempt to find a solution to either or both. I was just noticing it seemed some might have confused my situation with the CC issues which also seams to be more of a problem with the manual trans group. I'm not sure though, some of you out there might have had that issue with auto's also. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif
I was just trying to keep all on the same page!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Mike /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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No problem.
I had another thought (which is dangerous for me at this time of night). Just thinking out loud...Could the pcm be swapped with someone else's? Or some idle control circuit? But you did say that you couldn't replicate the problem at will. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif Never mind. Sure would be easier if there were mechanical components that could occasionally be binding (like throttle return springs on carburetors) that could be chased down.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Everything being mechanical, it would be pretty simple to track down. I guess this is one of the down side of all this electronic stuff everything has these days. The systems are to complex and interlaced to just be able to point the finger at one sensor or part. Who knows how many sensors are even involved in figuring out any part of determining how to match the throttles "actual" position and eventually leading to the engines "actual" speed or power output!! I'm sure there is very advanced equation the PCM is calculating continuously to come up with a final answer...and maybe sometimes it's wrong. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif Or at least coming up with a wrong answer if it is receiving false information from one or more sensors at any given time.

Come to think of it...my PCM has been replace once...about 6000 miles ago for an unrelated problem...which turned out NOT to be the problem after all, just another $750 experiment a shop tried on me. After some though, it has been since that PCM change this has happened. Related or not, I'm not sure. I do know, or pretty sure at least, there are three computers on these trucks...do these computers have to be "matched"?? What if they...the Non-Ford shop...didn't get the right computer?? Is this even a possibility or once the new PCM is reflashed along with everything else would this fix any mismatches??
Good though Short Stuff...now you've got me thinking!!

Maybe a tech can chime in on what the possibilities of a mismatched PCM might have...or even if mismatching is possible.

Mike
 

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I would think (which is a dangerous situation for me) that the pcm's would come blank, and that you would flash your particular program on it at the time it is installed. DOn't know for sure though, since I never had to change one. There is the APCM (auxillary power control module) listed on the fuse panel but I don't know if our trucks have anything like that at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I've heard a few different stories in the past.....one the PCM comes with a generic program that is just basically the bare minimum the truck needs to run...in which it needs to be flashed to put the newest and greatest flash to bring it up to specs and for the engine to run right. The second thing I had heard...by a different source, was that there were three total computers that run the truck...the main PCM behind the battery and two others mounted on the engine. That source said it was VERY important when getting a reflash that the dealer brings up all three computers and reflash all of them to match each other, and that if only the main PCM was reflashed it could cause compatibility problems. What problems, I'm not sure. The last I had heard...when I was having to order the new PCM...my local Ford part department said I needed to get a code off my old computer so the new one would match the original. The Ford dealership that the new PCM came from...which was to go to the bogus shop at which my truck was at the time, told them it didn't matter and they were all the same. Out of all that, I have no idea if any or all of what I have just mentioned is true or not. Or if any of this IS true, is it possible my trucks computer system is screwed up now or not. I do know for a fact that my truck went into my local Ford shop after the new PCM was installed for the recalls mentioned on an earlier post and they did say all the computers were updated. They knew I had the PCM replaced, but at that time did not say anything about it having to match or mine not being the correct one. At this point I'm completely confused and need to do some research to find out the fact about the above mentioned to see if possibly this could be a problem with my truck. Another thing I know...my truck never has run quite as strong since the PCM was replaced. Seat of the pants meter said with the same SCT tuning I was down 20-30 HP. It was definitely noticeable and the power just never came on as strong as before. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif The power thing I'm sure is a different topic all together, but I was just noting it as a point that if it is true the computers must match, this might be another consequence of that problem?? Again, I have no idea about the facts on this and just guessing on a lot of it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif Any corrections would be greatly appreciated.


Mike
 

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OK, folks, trash taken out. I thought about deleting the thread altogether but there is quite a bit of good stuff going on here I didn't want to see gone. Things got a little hairy, came back then started south again. Let's keep things on topic and civil.

Hopefully not too much that was really useful was lost.

Dave / Believer45
 

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Mike,
I know it isn't the floor mat causing your problem. I had just one similar situation last month while pulling a 10000lb boat from SoCal to San Jose. I was cruising at about 63mph for several miles, When I let my foot off the accelerator I maintained the same speed. I braked, but when I let up on the brake the speed went back up to 63. This was on Hwy 5, flat, straight and no traffic so I was able to check the mat and floor and pull on the gas pedal, test brakes etc. When I accelerated up to 70mph and then let back off the speed would drop to 63 and hold. I finally cured the problem by activating the cruise control and then manually deactivating the control. My 6.0 Excursion had about 3000K miles. I have not had the problem reoccur. It was also not a cruise control issue as the cruise control was not on.

2005 6.0 Eddie Bauer 4x4 Excursion, green, air levelers, WD hitch, Rancho shocks, No chip (not needed) Average 16 mpg hwy with plenty of pulling power.

2001 7.3 Excursion 4x4, lifted, chip, 1 ton rear springs, air levelers.
Many other trucks including Bronco, Suburbsan, Blazers and pickups
 

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I wonder if it is possible that a problem with the cruise control is causing it to accelerate the engine evem though it is turned off. Stranger things have happened.
Gary
 

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That was my thought earlier. Wonder if there is a way to test the circuit with the motor on to see if the cruise control could be stuck to Always ON ? Sort of like the cruise control switches that are catching fire in the F150's and Explorers? We've had a rash of those types of vehicle fires the past year here in the Houston area. The vehicle would be off for several hours, but the switch still has current in it and would over heat and start the motor on fire. Don't know if anyone that was affected ever complained about surging and the motor racing without the gas pedal not being pushed down, though. And this switch in the F150's is an Always On switch. I never could find out if the Super Duties used the same switch or not. h-m-m-m Just thinking out loud...
 

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My understanding of the F150 CC switch problem is that it's a switch for the brake input. For whatever reason, there is always voltage to the switch even with the key off, so when the switches fell apart internally there was the possiblity for arcs to occur in the presence of brake fluid and start a fire. It wasn't that the cruise control system was "always on" just that there was voltage on this switch even with the truck ignition off. So I think that's a completely unrelated issue to the one being disucssed here. (And I think I remember reading that the Superduties did *not* feed voltage to that switch when the truck is off, in any event.)

Duncan
 

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That particular that was recalled was a pressure switch that was a redundant device for shutting off the cruise control in case the brake light under the dash on the brake pedal arm failed.

A safety device that starts fires, who'da thunk it? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

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New to the forum and bumping an old post. Have had the same issue as OP twice in about a month. Once on the highway, once cruising at about 25 on a dirt road. Was a solution ever found? 2005 6.0 F350 98,000 miles no chips or programmers only suspension intake and exhaust.
 

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I would have to say x2 on the ICP or IPR problem, it happened to me.

Early 03 auto. Check out the pigtail for oil intrusion, should be an easy fix?
 

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This is the third time this has happened. The first two times was on open road and lasted 3-4 seconds. I was able to keep it under wraps with just a slightly raised heart rate before it let off. The first time I looked to make sure the throttle was not hooking on the floor mat or anything, which the mat was totally clear of the throttle. That time I had my SCT tune in it, so when it stuck wide open it took off like a rocket. The second time I had it tuned to stock and it wasn't as dramatic but still got my attention. Today, it literally scared the crap out of me. I was tuned with a fast tune and I had punched it to get across the street and let off the throttle half way across the street...except the truck kept going like a rocket. The pedal was not stuck to the floor it had popped back out but the truck was still floored. I had every ounce of strength pushing on the brake and all it did was keep it from going to much faster...I was still going a solid 25 mph with the brakes mashed. I was heading full bore into the car directly in front of me. As a last resort I killed the ignition and was able to stop the forward motion less than 6" or so before smashing into the car in front of me. She quickly stopped at the next stop sign jumped out of her car and gave me the one finger salute, but before I could even start to give her the reason she jumped back in and took off.
I was just wondering if anyone has ever heard of this problem. It's not the chip since it happened once 100% stock. I know these are electronic throttles with redundant sensors...but I thought if they got a false reading they defaulted with zero throttle...not WOT. But anyway, one way or the other I need to get this fixed before I plow right over top of someone one of these days. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks for any help,
Mike
 

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I have a 2018 F350 superduty 6.7 powerstocker and just today the throttle stuck and I had to put the truck into neutral and brake. Scary
 

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I have a 2018 F350 superduty 6.7 powerstocker and just today the throttle stuck and I had to put the truck into neutral and brake. Scary
Glad you were able to act fast.
Good advice in this ancient thread.
1) Floormat?
2) Tuner?
3) Get an appt with your Ford Service Center today.
 
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