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Discussion Starter #1
I own a 7.3 Diesel which is needing an injection pump replacement. The pump we plan to use is from an older 6.9 engine. The Hayes manual suggests to remove the front cover, which involves removing all peripherals. Is there a reliable shortcut?
 

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don't take the pump gear cover off or youll be in for a fun re timing session for the gear. just pop the small plate with two bolts on the front of the cover so you can get to the three pump mounting bolts ( you will need a 12 point , 8mm socket for these )
Just take the injector line fittings off the injectors, remove the hosesand wires from the pump, remove the three 8mm bolts holding the pump to the gear, then the 9/16 nuts holding the pump to the housing, and wriggle the whole works out, injector lines and all.
Now is a good time to replace the injector return line set and orings etc.
 

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I've done it both ways, there is no need to remove any accessories, at least on the ones I have done. In a van I think it is easier to remove the whole tower.

IF you choose to remove the tower you must remove the little cover on the front and mark the position of the gear so you can put it back the same way.

Of course either way you must NOT turn the engine with the IP out.
 

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The pump on the 6.9 is a little different in the fuel settings from the 7.3. I think I remember being told by the pump shop guy that there is more fuel at start up and there was another setting also different. If it is going on a truck you intend to use do some checking before you swap. With diesel at the price it is if you are putting a few miles on the truck it will pay to put a rebuilt pump on very quickly.
 

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if you ever pull the IP gear off of the cam gear i found putting the engine at TDC and using a dentist tool to feel for the mark in the cam gear works great to get your gears lined up
 

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Mr Roboto... what is wrong with turning the engine with the ip out? If you pull the ip out it will only line up one way since there is a notch in the ip...

If you remove the entire casing your screwed anyways lol... i know from a bad bad experience!

Then ya get to mess around with markers and TDC... sooooo much fun!
 

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Cjhstang</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mr Roboto... what is wrong with turning the engine with the ip out? If you pull the ip out it will only line up one way since there is a notch in the ip...

If you remove the entire casing your screwed anyways lol... i know from a bad bad experience!

Then ya get to mess around with markers and TDC... sooooo much fun! </div></div>

You turn your replacement IP to match the gear orientation. You don't take a distributor out then put it back in any old way and expect the motor to run do you?

You will ONLY have problems if you do not mark where the gear is oriented or if you go turning the motor (changing the gear orientation).

There is no reason why changing out an IP should be anything more than a 40 minute job and can be done safely and easily either removing the tower or not. Removing the tower complete is actually easier because you don't have the lines hanging up on things. The downside is you have to re-seal the tower to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The pump is already out with the engine at TDC or maybe near TDC. The dental pick idea seems the best for me. Can you measure TDC with the glow plug out? I haven't checked the haynes manual yet. What do you mean "removing the tower"?
 

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OK.

DO NOT rotate the motor or the removed IP.

Did you take the IP out by itself (unbolt the 3 bolts from the gear)? If so, you just rotate the replacement IP to match and bolt it back up.

If you have removed the 4 bolts that hold the tower without marking the gear orientation then you are going to have problems. Most of the time during removal you will end up turning the gear and IP, which is why you have to mark it first.
 

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Mr roboto is right, pulling the top timing cover or rotating the gears will give you a serious headache. i drove mine arround for 5 months 1 tooth retarded becaue i pulled the cover off with the gear. retiming it is possible witout pulling the front cover but its a serious PITA
 

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Abrooks</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The pump is already out with the engine at TDC or maybe near TDC. The dental pick idea seems the best for me. Can you measure TDC with the glow plug out? I haven't checked the haynes manual yet. What do you mean "removing the tower"? </div></div>

Read Ziggsters timing article It will explain this all nicely with pictures
 

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PowerstrokeDogg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mr roboto is right, pulling the top timing cover or rotating the gears will give you a serious headache. i drove mine arround for 5 months 1 tooth retarded becaue i pulled the cover off with the gear. retiming it is possible witout pulling the front cover but its a serious PITA </div></div>

Mine was the same way, it timed OK with the old IP but when I installed a new one it was retarded (I put in the IP without removing the tower so it was retarded the whole time). I ended up pulling the tower and moving the gear one tooth over and I was golden.

If you choose to pull the whole tower, just remove the little cover on the front and mark where the 3 bolts and dowel are in relation to the cover BEFORE unbolting anything. As long as you mark your position, the job is very easy.

I think the problem comes in because people are used to working on gassers where you can SEE where the distributor is pointed plus there is a lot more adjustment for a minor "oops". With the IDI's you can't really see which cylinder is firing plus the adjustment range is tiny.
 
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