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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
well Took The Old Girl In On Saturday And Ran A Diagnostic AT FORD, Found Out 2 Injectors Are Gone Thus Far.
Curious Though As He Told Me There Were No Codes Coming Up After An Hour And A Half.
I Told The Tech About How She Has No Power In The Morning And That I Thought It Would Been A Good Idea To Leave The Truck Over Night So He Could Get A Better Idea Of How It Runs First Thing In The Morning.
When You Have To Run The Truck For 20 Minutes Just To Get It At Full Temp There Is A Problem.
Just Wondering How Long It Takes You Boys To Start Your Truck In The Morning And Be Able To Drive Off With Full Power.
Like I Said In My Previous Post Starting The Truck Is Not The Issue,it's Waiting Until She Is Right Up To Temp Befor I Can Drive Off .
Any Thoughts On This.
 

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hmm, I am having the same problem, but mine feels like a tranny.
 

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well Took The Old Girl In On Saturday And Ran A Diagnostic, Found Out 2 Injectors Are Gone Thus Far.
Curious Though As He Told Me There Were No Codes Coming Up After An Hour And A Half.
I Told The Tech About How She Has No Power In The Morning And That I Thought It Would Been A Good Idea To Leave The Truck Over Night So He Could Get A Better Idea Of How It Runs First Thing In The Morning.
When You Have To Run The Truck For 20 Minutes Just To Get It At Full Temp There Is A Problem.
Just Wondering How Long It Takes You Boys To Start Your Truck In The Morning And Be Able To Drive Off With Full Power.
Like I Said In My Previous Post Starting The Truck Is Not The Issue,it's Waiting Until She Is Right Up To Temp Befor I Can Drive Off .
Any Thoughts On This.
What do you mean by "full power"? I get in my truck, turn it to on, and wait while I trun on the GPS & hook up my seat belt. By then the WTS light has gone off & I crank it - take about 3 seconds, lights off. I'll wait about 30 seconds, and the stick it in reverse & out the driveway. I have a manual trans, so its a bit different, but I have no problems doing the 30 to 40 m/h the three miles to I-5, and then accelerating ont to the interstate. Just about the time I hit the on-ramp, the temp gauge is coming up & I get heat. Shifts are in the 2k range & no problems.

OH- yeah, while its in, have them check fuel pressure!! That's been a big cause of injectors going south, and may be what's causing yur lack of power too.

OMC

(oh - What's with the caps all over the place?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well Thats Just It ,if I Try And Drive This Truck It Bogs And Misses And Will Not Shift Worth S--t, I Have To Let Off On The Gas So It Will Kick In.
You Could Basicly Press Down On The Pedal And It Would Go Nowhere.
The Rpm's Will Only Go Up To About 15 Or 16 Hundred .
If I Kept It Pinned To The Floor For About 500 To 600 Feet The Rpm Will Rise Until It Shifts Then You Are Back To Square One With Regards To Rpm Rising Again.
Lets Put It This Way, We Have The Same Trucks At Work You Get In And Turn The Key Wait Until The Glow Plugs Are Hot Enough So That The Cylinder Walls Are Hot Enough For The Fuel To Compress Then You Turn The Key And Start The Truck.
After About 1 To 2 Minutes You Should Be Good To Go As If You Have Been Driving It For An Hour.
What It Mean About Full Temp Is When Your Temp Gauge Needle Is Right In The Middle Where It Should Be.
That Then And Only Then Is When It Drives With Full Power.
It's Like It Is Starving For Fuel And Or Air Until It Is Hot.
 

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Do you have the latest control module updates? Worked great for my truck. And some have reported Hot Shot Secret helped clean the oil side of the injectors and the truck runs better. Might be worth a try, especially if injector replacement will be on your dime.
 

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I had that same problem it was worse on cold mornings. My PCM was reflashed with a new heating strategy I believe. It cleared all that up. But I will tell you bad injectors make the problem much worse. I would have to let it heat up for about 15 mins before it would run right.
 

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That is different from my problem. It feels doggy when it is cold, but it will rev just fine. I can force the shift, but it will usually warm up in about 2 or 3 miles, even when it is a little cooler, around 50 or 60 degrees. That is why I am thinking tranny, which I do not think is covered under the fabled warranty.
 

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Just Wondering How Long It Takes You Boys To Start Your Truck In The Morning And Be Able To Drive Off With Full Power.
How cold is it there? This sounds almost normal to me. The PCM won't let you hammer down on the throttle when the engine is cold. My truck has pretty much acted like yours ever since it was new when it sat outside for long periods below 15-20 degrees.

If mine's been outside I will let it idle for a minute or two and then I'll take off. It's sluggish and likes to hold the transmission in gear(not shift) for 5-10 miles and then its just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
temp for starting

you know it doesn't matter if it is summer, winter, fall, the truck has to be at peak operating temp befor i get any kind of power.
wish i could further what i am talking about.
they are going to run tests tomorow at 7:00 a.m. and see what my concern is.You know he will see that if he tries to drive off he is not going to be able to go that fast at all.
to him it will be like the engine has 100 horse towing 20000 pounds.
i will have more info by 10:00 am my time (vancouver b.c.) and will let you guys know.
i told him to do icp, map sensor, apt, abc lmnop, all the great stuff we love about our trucks.:sick:
 

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Last winter I had a similar problem. The truck couldn't drive over a pebble when cold. They replaced 2 injectors and reflashed the computer. Start and go now.

Neil.
 

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defintatley have a problem, like everyone else said reflash it, hopfully the tech knew to do that. but like to sujested to him, he should monitor the cylinder balance one a cold start to see which injector is lazy. could also be a ficm but if he didnt pull any codes out i doubt thats it.
does it blow any smoke when it does this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
dealer repair

no no smoke at all, like i say when you start it ,it idles like it came off the show room but after that you put it under load and it just holds back like the ebrake is on and the rpm have a hell of a time rising .
by the way the temp is always about +6c to +9c degrees in vancouver around fall -1c to -2c in the winter summer +14c to +18c in the summer nights. about what oregon and washington state get. same weather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well as of right now 3 injectors going, both batteries are only holding a charge for a day.
the ford tech said somthing about air getting into the cylinders via the injectors??????
and that causes the rest of the cylinders to run bad until it warms up.
all electrical he says seems to be fine.
 

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I'd be suspect of all three injectors needing to be replaced. Sometimes air getting into the fuel line through one injector seal failure will cause cylinder contribution codes to pop up for other cylinders even though those injectors are fine. I'd also be suspect of the diagnosis because I don't think air in the fuel lines would clear up as the engine warmed. Seems to me that the longer it ran, the more air would get pushed into the lines and the worse it would run.

But if it's under warranty, then I suppose I wouldn't complain.
 

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well Took The Old Girl In On Saturday And Ran A Diagnostic AT FORD, Found Out 2 Injectors Are Gone Thus Far.
Curious Though As He Told Me There Were No Codes Coming Up After An Hour And A Half.
I Told The Tech About How She Has No Power In The Morning And That I Thought It Would Been A Good Idea To Leave The Truck Over Night So He Could Get A Better Idea Of How It Runs First Thing In The Morning.
When You Have To Run The Truck For 20 Minutes Just To Get It At Full Temp There Is A Problem.
Just Wondering How Long It Takes You Boys To Start Your Truck In The Morning And Be Able To Drive Off With Full Power.
Like I Said In My Previous Post Starting The Truck Is Not The Issue,it's Waiting Until She Is Right Up To Temp Befor I Can Drive Off .
Any Thoughts On This.
If it sounds extremely rough when starting and doesn't sound as though it is firing right then I'd have them check the FICM. I had this problem and it was due to a short in my FICM, they replaced that and she was running like a top after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
No it was injectors ,some of them were not even taking voltage some were week and were not snaping the way they should .
i just found out from the tech guy they were all original ford injectors because of the lot number on them. i decided to get them all done.
I pick it up at 6:00 pm vancouver time .
the tech is going to take it for one more ride befor he lets me have it.
he says it runs like a freight train now with regards to power and just want to do one more run with it cold.
 

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Vancouver Canuck,

If your truck is out of warranty, why are you wasting your time with the dealer? No offense to the Dealer Mechanics, but they usually put the same ford parts back on. Go to Piers Diesel Research in Port Kells, they can give you some options that are aftermarket parts. (which may or may not be better)

Either way ask for Dave or Justin in Service.

Yes they are a performance shop. I had a 3 ton freightliner that could barely do the speed limit, $1000.00 bill and I have a truck that runs like a Mustang.


Anyways call them just for humours sake or even better go in and see them. They are on 94th ave just west of Finning Caterpillar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
running better then a frieghtliner

well got the truck back and i will tell you it is not as i thought it would be from the dealer.

It's a freakin savage now.
:wink2:
the techy put it on the dino after brand new injectors and a few adjustments with his program from his labtop and well,
338 horse power 637 foot pounds,more then when it came out of the factory.

i put my foot into it a couple of times up steep hills and thought i was driving a cn rail train.
the tourqe is more then i have ever had and well it cost a few bills it was worth it.
 
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