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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i took my dpf off to see what would happen and how it would sound.it started once and now it wont start at all. i put the dpf all back right and i checked all the connections and the truck still wont turn over.can any one please help me to get my truck running again
 

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Did you damage any of the sensors?

Truck is shut down to protect it.

Try this at your own risk:
EGT 13, when it's open circuit, the sensor is bad, unplugged, not installed in your delete kit, what have you causes the truck to enter the following strategy:

PCM Power output limited.
A "Pull Over Safely and Shut Vehicle Off" message may display in your instrument cluster.
A 1-hour no-crank condition.
If you suspect this is your issue, and you're stranded, try the following.

Vehicle in PARK
Parking brake SET
Key in the ON position
Open hood
Near the RH battery, there is a single wire disconnect. It is attached to the battery box. Remove it from the battery box and disconnect it.
Touch the end headed towards the starter to the POSITIVE terminal of the battery.
The truck should start. Reconnect the wire, close the hood, and check for codes. You will likely have a code for EGT-13 open circuit, over temp, out of range.

DISCLAIMER: USE THIS INFORMATION AT YOUR OWN RISK. IF YOUR VEHICLE IS INDEED EXPERIENCING AN OVER TEMPERATURE CONDITION THERE IS RISK OF VEHICLE DAMAGE AND POSSIBLE FIRE OR TOTAL LOSS OF VEHICLE. THE AUTHOR OF THIS POST ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE INFORMATION PROVIDED WITHIN. USE THE AFOREMENTIONED INFORMATION PROVIDED AT YOUR OWN RISK TO SELF, VEHICLE, AND PROPERTY.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
no i did not damage anything.i just took off the dpf and turned the truck on one.i shut it down to take it all off.then i tried to start it again and it would not start.so i put it all back toghter again and cleaned the soot inside the exaust.the truck still wont start.i disconnected the batterys all night and still nothing.i have 2 programmers and it has no codes.i wanted to buy a dpf delete kit and a programmer but not sure what to get.i just need my truck to start so i can get to work.
 

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think i read somewhere that guys that were installing a tuner and unhooked the dpf and started the truck before tuner installed experienced the same no start...had to have the pcm reset at the dealer.
 

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I thought i read on here somewhere that if you wait for 45 minutes it will let you retry a start. There was a post from someone who had something similar with a tuner install and forgetting to program before starting. The good folks over at H&S helped him out.
 

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If it won't start by now, you are going to have to get it towed to the dealer. Don't tell them what you did, and it MIGHT be covered if you still have any warranty left.
 

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You need a scan tool to clear the DTC's. The "won't start" is a no crank concern, correct? The starter circuit is disabled by the ECM because the ECM saw a fault with an EGT sensor. Plug everything back in, clear DTC's, and you should be good to go. Otherwise, if you have it towed to the dealer they will most likely put an EGT13 sensor in it not knowing what really happened.
 

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i took my dpf off to see what would happen and how it would sound.it started once and now it wont start at all. i put the dpf all back right and i checked all the connections and the truck still wont turn over.can any one please help me to get my truck running again
Did you get truck running again...what was the problem...i did same thing on 2016 duramax
 

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Did you get truck running again...what was the problem...i did same thing on 2016 duramax
If you read that last post before yours it explains it.
 

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Cleaned my DPF and now my truck won't start- what fixed this for you?
What EXACTLY does "I cleaned my DPF" mean? If you can scan for codes, it would be helpful.

If you had any EGT sensors disconnected recheck to make sure that they are all plugged in and completely connected and latched. Depending on the calibration level, EGT sensor circuit codes can cause a no-crank condition. As an aside, I have had 6.4L trucks towed in with EGT faults and a no start where I was able to jump the starter and start the engine - no other reason to do that but to get the truck out of the parking lot and into the shop for diagnosis. BUT sometimes that is enough to restore normal operation.
 

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I washed the dpf out with hose pipe and degreaser. Drove it- was fine- went to start for work next day and it started and shut off. The back pressure flap doesn't cycle when you turn on the switch. It always has- so I have cleaned ebp sensor verified with v ref voltage in and out. New batteries- fuel filter- regulator spring and fp sensor getting 98psi on gauge at manifold when primed. Replaced IPR valve and pig tail- HP oil rail seals- disconnected HP hose @ head zero leakage on HP rail at injectors. Servicemax showed 750 psi at cranking has 40 psi on low pressure side @ gauge. Cleaned all grounds and hots at battery and used dmm tested relays for ecm under hood- tightened pins- truck had lot of white smoke before so cleaned egr valve it was closed fully. New AIT sensor, I have used dmm on injectors and 5 of them have over 2.5 to 3 ohms of resistance between ohm test following procedures for this. Should be .5 to 1 ohm on all pins. Only one is .08 and .08. I removed uvc harness and gasket for injectors and ohm tested for short and inspected. I am going to put it back in and hook injectors up tomorrow and then unhook at ecm and test ohms on them at the ecm harness to be sure nothing is shorted out in the harness. My thoughts are excessive heat built up and killed injectors. It is pretty sooted up inside the intake and If I have to do New injectors which seems that way I am going to remove and clean the intake and install new valve cover harness and gasket and a new ICP- It just has me baffled that the back pressure flap won't cycle anymore- I am really wondering if the ECM is just refusing to open it because of the zero reading on the ebp sensor? It is wanting a reset in service max? Which I don't have on a lap top myself- paid 300 for someone just too say YEP NO CODES- it did have injector 6 coil open- ipc high then low, exaust temp high- excessive soot load. The afterburner had a fuel leak going to the dozer why UT prob would never regen before. I fixed that. I know it's a long post- this is week 3 of no work and no truck and I'm about sick of it. I'm going to get a lap top and service max of my own I think-
 
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