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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. Hopefully this is not too lengthy of a post but I would rather give you more information than not enough.

To start my truck is a 2000 F250 7.3L PSD CCSB with 3.73 gears. I've got 235K miles on it.

I have been having issues with slippy/hard shifts ever since I had my transmission rebuilt about 4 years ago around 220K miles. The shop rebuilt it stock with some "upgraded solenoids, clutch packs, and a heavy duty torque converter." This is the wording that I recall. I was in college strapped for money and it was a reasonably cheap rebuild.

Well, I recently did new injectors, a new turbo, and a new fuel system. With all of that, I got the CTS2 Insight monitor so now I can log and see what I am feeling when I drive.

So I am trying to figure out if I need a new torque converter, new TC solenoid, or even a whole new built tranny for my new gains.

Here is a capture from a pull I did yesterday on the lets call it "aggressive daily" tune I run. Under heavy acceleration, the tune will lock the TC in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th gears. Represented on the graph in red, 2nd gear locks around 9 seconds, 3rd locks around 13 seconds, and 4th locks around 18 seconds. (The monitor registers locked gears as 100 more than the actual gear IE 102 is 2nd locked, 103 3rd locked you get the idea of why it seems to dip so much).

Blue is engine RPM. Purple is vehicle speed.

I start the pull around 6 seconds. You can see around 8.5 seconds the transmission shifts to 2nd. Then it locks the TC just after 9.5 seconds. The rpms dive down, vehicle speed remains constant and the transmission seems like its slipping. Then the shift hits and the spike in vehicle speed was actually my tires breaking loose momentarily due to the harshness of the shift. The truck then pulls.

It unlocks the TC at 13 seconds to shift into 3rd and then re-locks the TC. Using the software, I can see the RPMs drop around 25-30 RPMs during that time. Then the RPMs drop about 700 RPMs as expected in a gear change.

Moving onto 4th, the RPMs drop around 700 RPMs between 3rd locked and 4th locked.

Does this seem point to either a TC or a TC solenoid?


157605
 

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Are there any codes stored? Is the OD OFF light flashing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I believe there are.

There was a check engine light that popped up but my CTS2 said there were no DTCs. I tried to read it with my autel al319 when I got home but it also showed nothing. So I am assuming there is a transmission code. Yesterday I ordered an autel diaglink to be able to read transmission codes so hopefully I can do that tomorrow and get back to you. Hopefully I don't need the AE reader like everyone recommends.

Oddly enough I was able to clear the service light with the CTS2 even though it said none existed. The check engine light popped up again yesterday and I didn't clear it but it was off this morning when I went to work.

I did not notice one way or another if the OD light on the lever was flashing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got my code reader and there are several codes/faults when I ran all systems. Could any of these cause TC issues?

P0500
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) circuit fault

P1282
Excessive Injector Control Pressure (ICP)

P1876
Transfer case 2wd solenoid circuit open or short to ground

B1203
Fuel sender circuit fault

B1318
Battery voltage too low

B1352
Ignition key in circuit fault
 

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The P0500 code will cause this problem. It could be a bad VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor, located on top of the rear differential) or a problem with the wiring between the PCM and the VSS.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alrighty. That's cheap and easy enough to throw a part at. Based on other threads I've read, I would think my cruise control or speedo wouldn't be working correctly.

When you say a problem with the wiring do you mean potentially cut, shorted, or corroded wires? Only reason I ask is I can't see it being wired improperly as it was stock before the shop replaced it.
 

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Yes, I mean a damaged wire.
 
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