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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need some help please,
I was 150 kms in to a 300km trip when the torque converter lock stoped working. I have a spliced manual switch and have just reconnected the purple yellow wire at the PCM plug ( I don't know why the previous owner cut it there .... maybe due to putting larger size tyres on and it might have been playing up respectively.) Is there a fuse that supplies the torque convertor lock ? I also have all LED blinkers , tail and stop lights , I have read that this might interfere ?
Thanks
Bob
 

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Yes, it's possible that the LEDs are preventing the BOO circuit from providing the weak ground signal that the EEC looks for. Click this & read the caption:

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Steve83,
would aftermarket resistors bridged to each led stop this led interference ?
Thanks
Bob
 

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Possibly, if they're installed correctly.



It would be MUCH cheaper, easier, quicker, & more-reliable to just put an incandescent bulb or 2 back in, though. One in the CHMSL should do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Steve83,
The CHMSL, is that what us Aussie's call the third brake light ? I checked the third brake light today and it has a incandescent bulb for the brake light, so no torque converter solenoid activation for lock as yet. My turn indicators flash very fast I am thinking of putting a incandescent bulbs in those circuit too. Would I also need to put a incandescent bulb in the tail light circuit do you think ?
P.S. With the spliced in manual switch I have put in for torque converter lock, wouldn't that over ride LED interference ?
Thanks
Bob.
 

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Fast turn signals on a pre-'99 mean low resistance (possibly short circuit); not a blown bulb or LEDs (high resistance) like on later trucks which have an LCM to control the blink speed. Without seeing what you've done, my guess is that you wired the switch in wrong, or there's some other damage to the truck's wiring that you haven't found yet. I'd start by putting everything back to stock, and then diagnosing the problem. Once you have it working right, you can try the LEDs again.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=53216
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes.... but Steve there are many influences on the torque converter lock so I have been reading. For the torque converter lock to stop working 150kms in to a 300km trip would not make me think LED...... maybe a failed part. Does anyone know all the influences on the torque converter lock ?
thanks
Bob
 

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Pedal position, rate of change of pedal position, vehicle speed, engine speed, transmission temperature, engine temperature, barometric pressure, and probably a few others I can't think of right now.
 

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You might see if you can PM member Mark Kovalsky on that topic (former Ford Automatic Transmission Engineer 1988-2007). Or maybe he will see this and reply. Cheers!
 

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For the torque converter lock to stop working 150kms in to a 300km trip would not make me think LED...... maybe a failed part.
I agree. But whatever it is, it will be easier IMO to find that failure with the circuits in stock configuration - including bulb type.
Does anyone know all the influences on the torque converter lock ?
EEC/PCM strategies are vastly more complex than vacuum- & hard-switched-controls used to be. It would probably be easier to list the things on the truck that DON'T affect TCC strategy. Did you look at that diagram I posted before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yes Steve83..... I looked at the diagram but it made no sense to my brain, I did not know what or where the caption is or was.
My MAP is not working and throwing a code , out with the $19 Chinese one and one on order from the states ( those Chinese ......you got to watch them......now the same guy on e-bay has upped the price to $119 for the same none working MAP sensor).......Would that stop the TCC you think ?
Thanks
Bob
 

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A caption is usually below its picture. Once the new tab (or window) opens, scroll down that page. It will be MUCH more usable on a fullsize computer than on a phone.

The MAP is what tells the EEC how much acceleration you want, compared to what the engine is actually doing. The MAP isn't throwing the code; the EEC stores codes when it detects faults in circuits. So don't pick the name of a part (like "MAP") out of a code definition; read & understand the COMPLETE code definition. If you don't understand it, POST the number & the complete definition for each code. Personally, I never trust code scanners for EEC-IV; I've dealt with too many people on discussion forums who got spurious & erroneous codes from them. I always recommend using a plain old jumper wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
have codes p0236, p0237 from my lovely new Chinees MAP which I purchases for $19 us delivered........The thing doesn't even put out a frequency. Ok so I will put in the new MAP when it arrives from the states and see if that gets the tranny lock working ? Will go and have a look at that caption now
Thanks
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow excellent caption Steve83........Some people say the best way to track down a problem with the tranny lock is to drive around with a live data scan tool and check the readings ? I don't have access to one and will start with a functioning MAP sensor and see what happens. Please remember the thing stoped working 150kms into a 300km trip.
Thanks
Bob
 

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Some people say the best way to track down a problem with the tranny lock is to drive around with a live data scan tool and check the readings ?
Ford suggests a much simpler technique:

I don't have access to one...
Why not? This one is ~US$17, so I can't imagine it being much more than AU$50.



I don't specifically remember if it displays TCC state on any vehicle I've connected it to, but it DOES display some PIDs - even from my '97 GM diesel.



IDK if yours is OBD-II, but if you own ANY OBD-II vehicle, that scanner is a good investment.

Even when I worked at the dealership, I never used or saw a scanner that read live data from an EEC-IV.
 

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Steve, 99% of the scanners out there can not read Fords Codes on these trucks and I doubt that one that cost only $17.00 would be able to read them.

Most on here will purchase Auto Enginuity to read codes and it also reads live data
 

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Steve, 99% of the scanners out there can not read Fords Codes on these trucks and I doubt that one that cost only $17.00 would be able to read them.
I doubted it would read anything from that old Chevy 6.5L.


...until I actually tried it. :winking:


I'm not seeing AutoEnginuity on Amazon, and the only one I see on eBay right now is a refurb for $120+sh, so IDK how many people here are going to buy it.
 

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I doubted it would read anything from that old Chevy 6.5L.


...until I actually tried it. :winking:


I'm not seeing AutoEnginuity on Amazon, and the only one I see on eBay right now is a refurb for $120+sh, so IDK how many people here are going to buy it.
If you want to work on these trucks you need the proper tools and AutoEnginuity is one of them. Or a SnapOn M2500 with the Ford package. Some have found a cheaper route using a Torque app for Android.
 

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If you want to work on these trucks you need the proper tools and AutoEnginuity is one of them. Or a SnapOn M2500 with the Ford package. Some have found a cheaper route using a Torque app for Android.
I agree. I use AE and I also use Torque App for quick scan of codes on all cars as well as my Powerstroke trucks. AE is great!
Torque App is what I grab most of the time because it is so fast and great results even on the 7.3 powerstroke. Torque App also reads live data as well as ICP, ipr duty cycle and a bunch of the Powerstroke data just by downloading the Ford Powerstroke pids. The app is 5 dollars and the blue tooth device is about 13 dollars

Here is a youtube video about setting up for Powerstroke
here is just one pic of what can be loaded
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Took the truck for its first good run since the injectors were serviced and fuel pump changed......I have not put in a functioning MAP sensor as of yet. I have reconnected the purple yellow wire to the PCM ( torque converter lock wire)that had been cut off at the fire wall( as I received the truck) before the big run. I am running a tune +65 hp and firmer shifts. Before the firmer shifts tune was added , gear changes at moderate acceleration sounded like a slipping manual clutch were as it took a few seconds for the rev to go down after going up a gear. Now with the firmer gear change tune there is no slipping and the gear changes happen at a low rpm (short shifting ) Over drive light started flashing early into the long run. Pulled the codes ;
1 P01728 Transmission slip
2 P0472 EPS low signal
3 P0237 (MAP related)
I don't think the torque converter lock up clutch is worn out (slipping ), just not activating. I am wondering if the torque convertor clutch is suppose to be on but for some reason like a sensor not working it is not activated. Would this create fault code P01728 ?......The transmission worked well (no slipping audible)except for the TCC not activating and getting stuck in first gear twice when in drive which I had to stop and restart the engine to get going again.
Thankyou for all your suggestions and helping out.
Bob
 
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