[ACD2]

I am replacing the original components still remaining on my 2012 F350 SRW King Ranch. That includes the drag ling and track bar. The bushing has play which is probably what I feel on hard bumps that contributes to it wanting to wobble before the Bilstien kicks in and stops it. I ordered the track bar and bushing, but it look like the axle side is fixed. Is there no replacement part for the axle connection?

The tie rods were replaced just before I bought the truck, but the drag link is still original, so going to replace that and the upper tie rod, as well as all 4 ball joints and add a 2 1/2 degree cam bushing to the upper ball joint. When done the truck should be good and tight for a few more years.

 

[ford_doctor]

The axle side of the track bar is a ball joint that is pressed into the housing. BTW a new OEM track bar comes with the bushing already installed.

 

[ACD2]

I got MOOG parts on order, couldnt tell if it has the bushing or not, so for $8 I bought insurance in case it doesn't come with one. Is that ball joint replaceable? I couldn't find reference to it.

 

[ford_doctor]

Is that ball joint replaceable? I couldn't find reference to it.

Yes - that is what I meant by it's pressed in. Stick with OEM on that part. I have replaced aftermarket track bar ball joints that somehow changed the bore and the OEM part fit loosely. I don't know how... but I have run into this a couple of times.

 

[ACD2]

Yes - that is what I meant by it's pressed in. Stick with OEM on that part. I have replaced aftermarket track bar ball joints that somehow changed the bore and the OEM part fit loosely. I don't know how... but I have run into this a couple of times.

Now that I know its a ball joint, I found several videos on how it is replaced. If not for the rust on it, I could have SEEN it was a ball joint! LOL I also read several comments that back up what you say, the MOOG parts are splined and increase the diameter of the mount once installed, making OEM fit impossible once installed. They also wear out fast. I found an OEM one and have it on the way.

I took a pry bar and can easily move the track bar forward with little effort at the ball joint, so that combined with the worn bushing must be contributing the the beginnings of DW that the Bilstien is preventing. I will know for sure once I get all the parts off. Doing a complete disassembly tonight, only part not being replaced is the outer tierods and center link since those have ~5000 miles on them and still have their paint. Getting new ball joints, new hub and axle seals, new drag link and upper right tie rod, new track bar and ball joint. Also 2 1/2 degree castor shims, so this should be a 100% cure for DW. Right now I can feel some slop in the steering when hitting bumps, so should feel like a new truck when done.

 

[ACD2]

I have an important question on removing the track bar. I have the Haynes manual, and this is what it states.

1 Raise the front of the vehicle and place jackstands under the front axle, not the frame. Block the rear wheels and set the parking brake.

2 Loosen the nut and disconnect the track bar ballstud from the axle bracket on the right end of the axle, then remove the nut and separate the bar from the axle bracket.

3 Remove the nut and bolt and disconnect the upper end of the track bar from the frame bracket (see illustration) .

OK, I have it jacked up and resting on jack stands as noted. I have the ball stud loose and the more I remove the nut, the track bar is moving down with it. Is it going to pop off and have the body shift on me? It seems to have a lot of tension on it right now, the frame side has not been loosened up yet either.

Is there something different I should be doing? I sure don't want to get hurt, or worse have the truck shift and get knocked off the stands

 

[ACD2]

Disregard last, I went to the frame side, loosened the hut and realized the bolt was turning freely, which meant no tension on it. I pulled the bolt and was able to finish removing the nut. Guess it was just the weight of it causing it to bind. Other then the pitman arm, the entire front end is apart, waiting on parts now.

 

[VWrabbitdiesel1982]

Hard to imagine a truck fairly new yet with front end issues. I had track bar issues with the 2001 dodge 2500 Cummins. I bought a new track bar and the specifications for max amount of movement was .060 for a brand new track bar. Certainly a Mickey Mouse front end design. I put my old track bar back in with Luke’s links out of Lajunta Colorado. I figured it would be much easier to deal with. They are rebuildable in the truck. I did have a similar problem as you had, the bolt that tied it to the Axle was wore out. I bought a new bolt from dealer in effort to tighten it up some. Really not even designed with a grease fitting or well designed joint. A kid out engineering school with no experience could come up with better design. The next design of Ram was better, but still a POS to be bettered by a aftermarket company later. Hope you get your front end to a better state of repair.

 

[ACD2]

You would think by now they would make a more robust front end for these trucks. 142,000 miles on it in 10 years, the parts should last longer than they do. So far the list is big, but I am pretty sure I have all the worn stuff being replaced. Discovered the right hub is what is making the wub wub noise, the bearing is notchy. It felt smooth while on the truck, but now that I have the hub off I can rotate the inner race and feel that its got bad bearings. I haven't bother to check the drivers side, it felt good all around, but I replace in pairs since they all have the same amount of wear on them. The passenger side did have a worn ball joint, was hard to tell while all assembled, but once I had it torn down I could feel some play in the spindle. The lower tie rods are still fairly new, they were new when I got the truck, but runs out the drag link tie rod was not new, was replaced at one point as it has a grease fitting, and still felt tight, but since the upper drag link needs to be replaced, going to just replace it as a unit with a new sleeve as the sleeve on it is buggered up.

The list
upper & lower ball joints both sides
new seals all around
new auto lock hubs
new upper tie rod and drag link
new track bar
new track bar ball joint
new bearing hubs
new sway bar links and bushings
clean and refill differential
new 2 1/2* castor cams.

Once it is done, get it aligned and it should handle like a new truck, the only thing I haven't replaced are the front springs. The rear I put a pair of 4400 pound springs in with a Roadmaster Active Suspension. It also has fairly new shocks, replaced them 2 years ago, but we have less than 5,000 miles on it since then.

Next up are glow plugs, pull and repair the bed, fix and repaint the bumpers and either find a replacement rear seat bottom cover or find a way to stain it back to king ranch color. I figure if I am going to be putting money in it to make it safe, might as well put a little more to make it better. I need to attack the rust and curb it from spreading, already did part of the rear frame when I did the springs, and noticed a lot of rust on the bed and found two holes in the floor under the 5th wheel mount, so those will be patched, new crossmembers installed, and a good coating of rust prevention paint underneath and on the frame and the truck should be good.

Anyway, thanks t=for the info on the track bar, helped a lot.